Filling the EGR on ported heads - is there really any measurable gains?

J Banning

Quench my thirst with C16
Joined
May 25, 2001
Has anyone done any testing to see if filling the EGR passages with aluminum is really worth the time and effort?

I know Champion does is, as do a couple others. is it really worthwhile? If so, can you ellaborate on what you did and how it was done - tips & tricks, best practices, etc.

Thanks,
-Banning.
 
Absolutely worthless as a power adder. Its a high pressure, turbulent air pocket, so the air stream coming out of the exhaust valve pretty much stays clear from it. Just leave it be, although I would break the sharp edges but thats it.
 
Fwiw, Champion will not do their intake manifolds, or yours, any other way than to fill them. I tried to get them to do 1 for me a year or so back and they would not do.
 
Has anyone done any testing to see if filling the EGR passages with aluminum is really worth the time and effort?

I know Champion does is, as do a couple others. is it really worthwhile? If so, can you ellaborate on what you did and how it was done - tips & tricks, best practices, etc.

Thanks,
-Banning.

I did lots of searches on this. It seems to squeak out the last little bit of power you want them filled. I don't think the gain is large, just slightly better numbers-not sure if you would see much better MPH or ET's but the flow bench would show slightly more regardless.

However, when I was shopping for a set from the popular porters, Nick M was the only one I found without filled passages. His heads are surely as fast as anyones, and has working EGR passages. If the local steal, uh I mean deal did not occur-I'd have a set.

The set I got are filled. Not to hi-jack your thread, but does anyone know a easy way to remove the aluminum now that its in there???

Nasty

I
 
kn1performance.. a member on here.. ported my upper plenum and lower intake, and cut out and welded up the egr port..

bead blasted and painted...

top notch guy to do business on here with ;)

Motor11.jpg
 
The set I got are filled. Not to hi-jack your thread, but does anyone know a easy way to remove the aluminum now that its in there???

Nasty

If you want the EGR to work, just drill it out. Your EGR should work with a 3/8" diameter hole.
 
If the EGR passage was on the floor of the runner, where gas speed and density is the lowest, then the gas would have a tendency to drop a bit and go into a tumble, which would create turbulence and reduce flow.
Given its on the roof where air speed and density is the highest, the pocket will stay pressurized and the exhaust gas will just glide right over it. Its the same as when guys lower the tailgates on their trucks to get better mpg. Its proven that it doesnt work at all. The bed is pressurized and the air just glides over it.
Keep in mind that under WOT, the EGR valve is closed anyway. But if there are sharp edges, THAT can hurt flow. The trailing edge (furthest inside the runner) can be sharp, and should be sharp, but the leading edge (nearest to the outside of the runner..((remember things are backward in the exhaust port)) should have no sharp edges. A rough surface on the walls only accounts for 2-3% of flow losses. The runner walls will be covered in carbon in no time anyway so the walls will be smooth soon. The intake runner, including the intake manifold's runner, should be uniformly lumpy but smooth to the touch....do as accurate of a port job with a burr and then finish it up by hand with red scoth brite to make it smooth. Alot of people hack it up and then try and use sanding rolls to cover their mistakes. Thats bad.
Its like a golf ball. Alot of tiny bumps creates a boundary layer that is like a bunch of tiny swirling air pockets. This creates an almost zero friction surface for the air to travel over. Air travels over a surface, and if it hits a little bump, a wake is created...like the water behind a boat. After that, the farther it travels the bigger it gets until it disrupts the entire flow pattern. But if it hits a bump and kicks the air up, then hits a dip, it drops back down, and then hits another bump and goes into a swirl...and so on and so on. It doesnt grow in thickness. Its stays thin and reduces the un-uniform nature of laminar flow...where speed is highest at the center and slowest toward the wall. This way the air doesnt bog down as much toward the wall. You have more average airflow through the cross section of the runner. People think that a rough surface is good for atomization on carb'd motors only. Well its not just about atomization. Its good for more flow as well. Just a few tips to throw at your head porter, or to apply yourself if you ever do it yourself.
 
BPE racing heads of Placentia will do heads & intake manifold & leave the EGR runners alone. However, keep in mind that they are not TB.com sponsoring vendors as Nick micale is. Nick has done a lot of heads & intakes for TB.com Southwestern Section members & other customers everywhere.

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