few questions for you turbo 6 geniuses

Chatmanboy

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2009
Do oil or something run threw the Pvc line? I'm getting grease around in that area.

Also getting a ticking sound on the passenger side of the engine. Yet it only happens when I put the car in drive and give it gas could that be the timing chain?

The downpipe that gbody parts sale where the flange is internal on the pipe how does that work? Does it run to the catalytic converter? Also is it best to run a cat or no?

Headers which ones to go with and where can I get them?
 
Ticking is probably the drivers side header. They crack between 3 and 5 cylinders. If it is, you need to get it fixed as it will throw your whole tune off.

If the car has a good amount of blowby, you will get oilly residue around the PCV valve. This could be a number of things. Bad turbo seals, vaccuum leaks, bad PCV valve, exhaust leaks pre-turbo, etc.


Headers, if your stock ones are good, use them or fix them. Postons headers are quite expensive.


GBodyParts downpipe is the best out there. It'll run to the cat, if you dont have emissions, buy a test pipe and get rid of the cat. The car will perform much better without one on it and will spool much faster and allow the turbo to boost.
 
^ +1 very good info.

As far the the Downpipe its a internal gate and it will elimate the elbow which is a huge problem area for our cars.
 
I looked on the site and didn't see one, assuming their not sold anymore. Guess ill try to get a used one off someone
 
I looked on the site and didn't see one, assuming their not sold anymore. Guess ill try to get a used one off someone

The 3 inch Hot Air downpipe is still available from Gbodyparts. This really is needed. The hard piece to find is a Postons passenger side header. Fix your stock header until you find one. Brad
 
With this downpipe is there something that's good to add with? From the options it have and I do have emissions I have to deal with
 
With this downpipe is there something that's good to add with? From the options it have and I do have emissions I have to deal with

Start looking for a used Poston or ATR passenger side header. Take you time and be dilligient. This part is needed. The other upgrade is to have a 2 1/2 exhaust system and a test pipe. I would only use a CAT when getting an emissions test. Remove and use a test pipe all other times. Also, upgrading the drivers side header and crossover pipe is a waste of time and money. Take care- Brad
 
i've had the 3inch mease downpipe for years and havent had emission problems with it its one hella of an upgrade u and the car will love it
 
Is it a big job to fix the cracked header? Would the engine have to come out? What type of shop would I take it to? Engine shop? New to me just want to know what to expect!
 
wen my header cracked many years ago i removed u dont need to take the engine out for that i on the other hand dont have all the bulky mess of the a/c so it was much easier access once u get it removed find ur cracked spots and have it rewelded any muffler shop will do it i had it done at one and its still holding up nicely better spool and no more ticking sound of course dont expect a nice job they just shoot all kinds of wire to weld it but it works
 
Is it a big job to fix the cracked header? Would the engine have to come out? What type of shop would I take it to? Engine shop? New to me just want to know what to expect!

Engine doesn't have to come out... just remove the header and send it to Scot W... he can weld it up PROPERLY, for a reasonable price.... like maybe $70 or so bucks.... OR.... use a GOOD local welder... the header is 4xx stainless... so tig welding is preferred....
 
Good that's what I wanted to hear I can take it off myself since engine dont have to be removed. Another plus is my dad is a welder... one more question what the best way to get it off from the top or bottom of the car?
 
i would say the top just remove what u need to temporarily so installing it wont be such a pain and u should b good to go
 
The DS header will come out either way... top or bottom... I took mine out from the top... just takes a couple tries to get it oriented properly, and a few creative curse words, and it will slip right out... :wink:
 
Finally got it off and took a few pics... cant really tell where its cracked but it looked like its been worked on a few times before so im guessing its in that same area....

IMAG0142.jpg
IMAG0143.jpg
IMAG0144.jpg
IMAG0145.jpg
IMAG0146.jpg<-------
 
IMAG0147.jpg<-----------------------------------------------------

IMAG0148.jpg

Is it best to try to get another one or do you guys think the crank is where its been welded on already???
 
Top