Fast Combo

[86brick]

I was under the impression that he had a cam, ported heads and intake, but after looking back at the first post he said he has ported intake, a cam, and all the traction aids with minor bolt-ons.... I hate to tell everybody, but as long as you have a good stock bottom end (low mileage) or it has been freshened up with some forged pistons and 2 center Billet steel main caps (the stock rods and turbo crank are fine) you are good to go cause if you think a girdle helps ask Jace about what happened to his motor!

 

[S2V6RACER]

I'd shoot for the high 11's. You have made many posts containing the comment "I don't want to tear the motor apart", I understand where you are coming from. It has been said and proven, time and time again upper 11's are the breaking point where big time $$$ and TIME is required to keep these things together. You can run your high 11's with a minimal investment. If you do not do things right and you want the 10's, you will end up tearing your motor apart, and it won't be able to be put back together.

 

[S2V6RACER]

Originally posted by Sinful6
Well if its for track early, and streetability is not a concern, get a T72-T76 Q-trim with some 83lb. injectors, and a 4000stall convertor. The car will fly. Just make sure you have a 3.5in. downpipe or bigger.

You don't need a 3.5" downpipe to break into the 10's, even the 9's. I'm not saying there isn't gains to be had, but it's money that can help him elswhere.

Cramer broke the 9's with a 70 turbo, which is the biggest allowed in TSM. My race car has a PT-76 and I would not consider it a "street friendly" turbo. You will get your a$$ blown away at a roll unless you get on the hammer for a couple of seconds before the guy next to you. This is with a 235" motor with a 4000 stall convertor.

If it's in the high 80's into the 90's, you might as well leave the car in the trailer.

 

[86brick]

I agree with Ted!

You can run mid to high 11's without having to spend much $$$ and you won't have to tear the motor apart as it has been proven by many guys.... Once you want to run low 11's or in the 10's it tends to cost a lot more $$$ and time as Ted mentioned and I want you to understand that this is not only with these cars (turbo buicks), but with most performance cars like LS1/LT1 F-bodies and 'Vettes and 5.0 and 4.6 Stangs cause I have friends that own them all and it seems that once they find out what it really costs to run deep in the 11's and 10's their cars go up for sale!!!

 

[motorhead445]

current combo

Fresh motor-chassis modified for bracket racing-Weld Dragstars(skinnys)-275/50/15 Nittos(28 Mickey T Et streets) for good bite
The motor has -200/200 GSCA cam(Degreed)
True Roller Timing Chain&HD Kenne Belle Rocker Arms
Ported&Polished Intake
Bell mouthed intake
3' Postons downpipe with Ported Elbow&Dump pipe
Quad air Fuel pump(hot wired)-Ported Hanger
Adjustable regulater-(Green Stripe Injectors 30lbs)
Cold Air intake(like a Big Mouth)
Postons 93 chip
Stock Turbo(set at 20lbs at all gears on 100 unleaded)
K&N breathers-Turbo block off kit-Engine Tie Down
Boost,oil,water,fuel gauges,(Scan master 2 waiting for it to arrive)
Stock Tranny&Converter(Will be modified soon)
160 stat(Big Radiator)HD Turbo Hoses Thermo wrapped up pipe&mass air pipe-Wrapped cross over pipe.
New MAF&Module-Coil pack Quad air Wires
I have a TCC Switch not installed yet also have line lock not installed yet,I want to rephrase what Im looking for,The car is in the 12s right now,I called for CPP for a Stage VI &He said 11s with his package.Im on a budget I just want a little more power.

 

[NoNos38]

Originally posted by 86brick
John Craig TE-45A turbo (66mm wheel), CAS V4 21 row stock location IC, 3600-3800 stall 9-11 converter, staged double pumper, 72lb injectors with modified ECM for bigger injectors, and a MaxEffort chip or a Translator+, 3.5" LS1 MAF, Extender chip....

Let me guess.. This is your combo

 

[J Banning]

Originally posted by UNGN
If all you want to do is scare yourself. get a 3500 stall converter and a trans brake and leave at 20 psi. You'll break a lot of stuff, but you'll scare yourself, even with a TE44.

LOL!!


Seriously though, you'll need head work of one fashion or another to get into the 10's. If you do some thrifty shopping on the Turbo Trader or on the "For Sale" section of this site you may be able to save a LOT of money.

Examples:
- I got my 72's for $300 (saved approx $75).
- Vigilante convertor for $350 (saved approx $375).
- ATR DP, external gate & test pipe for $400 (saved approx $275).
- Modded ECM (no exchange) for $125 (saved approx $100).
- Built my own frontmount for about $300.

If you're stretched for cash, take your time and shop around. Make sure you know exactly what you are getting before you fork over the cash.

-Banning.

 

[Kevin Turch]

who built your motor?
Kevin

 

[J Banning]

If you're referring to me, I bought the motor from a fellow board member and then did cam, intake, and head work myself.

-Banning.

 

[86brick]

NoNos38, that is not my combo as of now, but it will be soon enough

 

[Kevin Turch]

Oops, I was referring to Motorhead445.

Kevin