FAST B2B- 3 issues im having.

[callmeebryan]

sounds like a vacuum leak to me?

I thought so aswell... but i triple checked every vacuum line and everything seems perfect.

 

[SloGN]

Crap sorry guys, i meant to say OPEN loop. I got the car idling in open loop and am having those problems. Let me Repost it with the correct terms

Ok guys, i got my car to idle in OPEN loop. Its idling pretty good right around 13.7-14AFR. The issue im having now is that the car hunts real bad when i put it in reverse or drive in idle. I've tried adding timing trim but that didnt seem to help at all. I have it running at 30* at idle.

sounds to me like there is a vac leak or you have the gain set to high on the iac settings. try that also what are you tring to idle the motor at? also try lowering the timing a bit at idle also from what i have seen that the buicks want to be a little rich at an idle.. try richen it up. what i had to do is set the A/F ratio and timing witht he car idling and in gear. i have my timing set @ like 18-20 degrees at idle.

 

[UR50SLO]

I agree... hunting is the IAC settings (gain) too high. They do like a richer idle for smoothness. mid-high 12's seem to net me the best. Timing is 25. Much higher it want to act funky. (Open loop)
My idle is about mid 700rpms.
As I stated before, I go closed at 1200-6000 I'm at about 3-5% correction at WOT though a pass now.

"P" Gain is set to 18
"D" Gain set to 5
That's just how mine is setup and working.

The timing I setup for spool is helping (high timing) I've got a very tight converter so I need all the help I can get. I betterd my 60' with launching with 10psi. 1.65' The car's been 1.48's before I just need to get there with the new setup. Takes some time...
~Scott

 

[callmeebryan]

sounds to me like there is a vac leak or you have the gain set to high on the iac settings. try that also what are you tring to idle the motor at? also try lowering the timing a bit at idle also from what i have seen that the buicks want to be a little rich at an idle.. try richen it up. what i had to do is set the A/F ratio and timing witht he car idling and in gear. i have my timing set @ like 18-20 degrees at idle.

Timing at 23degrees, Air Fuel is around 13.7-14.0. The whole point of running it in open loop was to try to lean the car a bit at idle. It runs fine in closed loop at idle.

Car still wants to die when i put it into gear when running in open loop. Maybe ill just go in and replace all of my vacuum hoses.

 

[callmeebryan]

I agree... hunting is the IAC settings (gain) too high. They do like a richer idle for smoothness. mid-high 12's seem to net me the best. Timing is 25. Much higher it want to act funky. (Open loop)
My idle is about mid 700rpms.
As I stated before, I go closed at 1200-6000 I'm at about 3-5% correction at WOT though a pass now.

"P" Gain is set to 18
"D" Gain set to 5
That's just how mine is setup and working.

The timing I setup for spool is helping (high timing) I've got a very tight converter so I need all the help I can get. I betterd my 60' with launching with 10psi. 1.65' The car's been 1.48's before I just need to get there with the new setup. Takes some time...
~Scott

My IAC is currently (P):10, (D): 7. The P setting changes how much the IAC opens or closes in order to correct. The D setting changes the iac speed.

Ive been messing with it a bit. Guess i have to keep working on it. (Problem is, my car really drones at idle and the neighbors hate it .)

My target idle is 850.

 

[UR50SLO]

You'll have to send them ear plugs for christmas

Most GN's have that strange drone at idle and then around 2100rpm. Just where you cruse around town most of the time... It'd be nice to have it somewhere else where we are not in that RPM range.

I had my car hunt on idle till I got the settings right. It also wanted to die alot when I put it in gear... That'll tick ya off every time.
(yea... look at my hybrid... *puts in drive* Sputter dies..) Yea.. I'm a idiot!
Lol... spent a few days getting that annoying problem worked out.
I played alot with the throttle follower and other idle settings there to get them all matching.
Your getting close!
~Scott~
Bugs take awhile to work out. Don't sweat it.

 

[TEST MY 6]

I know this may not necessarily help anyone here but i thought id share what I learned from this thread and some others, Tonight after fixing a glitch with the software I got to spend some time tuning the car which I havent done in a year, mine always "seemed" to like to run rich at idle and I dealt with the fumes which I hated, I remembered every time I would lean it out a bit the idle would hunt and the car would die so I got it set up in the 11XX range in closed loop idle which was smooth but the car stunk. NOW from all the info I gathered I setup my closed loop at 1500,Lowered the timing for idle to 25, and am getting in the 14.00 or leaner range in idle. The car sounds better,responds better and best of all doesnt stink, Now im taking this step by step and have no road time with it but all adjustments were made with the car in drive and me snapping the pedal, A big thing I could also tell is that with the lowered timing my egt's are in the 800-850* (idle) and the turbo is spooling much faster as the egt's are climbing faster as well. I think a big myth going around (or at least I thought) is that more timing will spool the turbo better NOW i dont completely doubt that but lower timing with higher egt's is prepping the turbo better and keeping the housing hot.those are my thoughts and I look forward to reading more and hope this great thread continues!!

 

[SloGN]

I know this may not necessarily help anyone here but i thought id share what I learned from this thread and some others, Tonight after fixing a glitch with the software I got to spend some time tuning the car which I havent done in a year, mine always "seemed" to like to run rich at idle and I dealt with the fumes which I hated, I remembered every time I would lean it out a bit the idle would hunt and the car would die so I got it set up in the 11XX range in closed loop idle which was smooth but the car stunk. NOW from all the info I gathered I setup my closed loop at 1500,Lowered the timing for idle to 25, and am getting in the 14.00 or leaner range in idle. The car sounds better,responds better and best of all doesnt stink, Now im taking this step by step and have no road time with it but all adjustments were made with the car in drive and me snapping the pedal, A big thing I could also tell is that with the lowered timing my egt's are in the 800-850* (idle) and the turbo is spooling much faster as the egt's are climbing faster as well. I think a big myth going around (or at least I thought) is that more timing will spool the turbo better NOW i dont completely doubt that but lower timing with higher egt's is prepping the turbo better and keeping the housing hot.those are my thoughts and I look forward to reading more and hope this great thread continues!!

I have known your quite sometime that riching the A/F from 99 kpa to say 105 kpa and pulling the timing back makes the turbo spool nicely.

also when doing lean cruise more timing help light off a very lean mixture with causing the fish nibbling/bucking.

 

[TEST MY 6]

I will keep that in mind when I begin to tune cruising parameters.Since im posting One thing that has got me stumped is every conversion calculator on the internet converts 100kpa to 14.5 psi of boost, This makes no sense at all looking at a FAST map as my idle numbers are in the 80 kpa range, Whats the deal ? heres one here PSI-KPA Pressure Converter what am I doing wrong?

 

[SloGN]

well if have got to remember that your dealing with vac also on the 3 bar map sensor

so 15" inches of vac is 1 bar then you have from 0 vac to 15 psi is another bar and from 15-30 psi is another bar.


so from 0-99 KPA is vac in the fast system along with most speed density system and from 100 kpa to 315 kpa is 30 psi of boost.


yes if your looking at the kpa conversion they just give it for barometric purposes only. but since the fast is reading vac/pressure it's done that way.


hope this info helps

 

[TurboDave]

I will keep that in mind when I begin to tune cruising parameters.Since im posting One thing that has got me stumped is every conversion calculator on the internet converts 100kpa to 14.5 psi of boost, This makes no sense at all looking at a FAST map as my idle numbers are in the 80 kpa range, Whats the deal ? heres one here PSI-KPA Pressure Converter what am I doing wrong?

You have to keep in mind that, that particular converter, and most others for that matter, "say" 100kpa is equal to 14.5psi air pressure. NOT boost. just psi.

And since 14.5psi is = to atmospherice pressure, that means that aprox 100kpa is atmospheric pressure (14.5psi). Not vacuum, not boost, atmospheric at sea level.

So with the key on engine off you should see something in the very high 90's for a kpa reading, which means you're already at 1 bar before you even start the engine. :wink:

 

[TEST MY 6]

well that clears that up, Is there any way in FAST to change the kpa to read psi on the left side of the graph. Also does anyone know of a conversion that will take into account vacuum or are you just subtracting 14.5 psi from the data given by the calculator?

 

[Craig Smith]

Convert to PSIG instead of PSIA, or just subtract 14.7 PSI from your answer.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

There's no reason to idle at 25* of timing...I like at least 35* and 13.0 or so a/f. It will idle at 13.5 or leaner but sometimes the car doesn't like it.

 

[TEST MY 6]

I have been able to idle at 13.8+ or - , I think the lower timing allows this to happen, THe other benifit like I mentioned earlier is the hotter egt's which make the turbo spool much faster in my case.I did up the timing in cruise cells to about 35* which at that point the car needs against a load.