F-Body swaybar alignment

Jerryl

Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
Joined
Dec 14, 2004
Hey fellas. I need some advice.
Purchased the car with the front bar and was never really happy with the bar alignment as the links are not vertical.

Now . . I realize that a bit of misalignment is acceptable but with the Gbody lowers, it is too far off for my liking.

To correct the misalignment, the bushings will need to be moved about 1" inch forward, and about 1" towards the center if the car.

I have designed a bracket for this but wanted to get some feedback before ordering material.

Appreciate any feedback.

Here are some pics of the DS.
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What size turbo and converter is best for this setup? ..... :D :p
Surprised . . . At the very least . . . . shoot some reasonable holes in this plan.
 
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My 36mm F-body bar fit OK with the factory holes. I went tout the garage to look then I noticed my dad stole it off my T-type. I must have told him to put it on the 2+2. I don't remember.

Your plan looks good. It reminds me to keep an eye out at the junkyard for another Hollow bar.
 
My 36mm F-body bar fit OK with the factory holes. .
. .
Thanks for chiming in.
Here is a picture of the links with the mock up.
 

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Are you going to make a plate that bolts to the frame/sway bar bracket?

looking at that picture, you may want to look into taller upper/lower ball joints. It may be the camera view, but angle on the top BJ at full droop looks severe.

On my "Robert Adams/UB machine" Upper control arms I used for my 12" B-body brakes that I purchased from Robert Adams himself, he put the ball joints in backwards and it put a similar severe angle at full droop on a ball joint. Needless to say I ended up breaking a ball joint... good thing it was in the garage and not from hitting a pot hole on the highway.

Summit has new 1" taller inners that lower the car, improve the geometry and reduce bumpsteer for $40 each.
 
My 36mm F-body bar fit OK with the factory holes. I went tout the garage to look then I noticed my dad stole it off my T-type. I must have told him to put it on the 2+2. I don't remember.

Your plan looks good. It reminds me to keep an eye out at the junkyard for another Hollow bar.


i know of a guy that has a whole pile of those sway bars- like at least 10 of them... he parts out third gen F bodies for fun and profit, and didn't know what was so special about the one that i got from him other than that they were used on Trans Ams and IROCs... tried telling me they were made of aluminum and that was why they were so light and told me i was on crack when i told him it was hollow.
 
They have a hole on each end. Bet him 10 bucks it will bubble in a kiddie pool.
 
Are you going to make a plate that bolts to the frame/sway bar bracket?

looking at that picture, you may want to look into taller upper/lower ball joints. It may be the camera view, but angle on the top BJ at full droop looks severe. . . .

Summit has new 1" taller inners that lower the car, improve the geometry and reduce bumpsteer for $40 each.
Agree angle looks severe.
These are the +1" from GBody.
The upper arm does NOT have a stop which is why its looks severe. :mad:

Yeah . . Building a plate.
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Seems a little complicated. How about welding on a plate and drilling/tapping it to where you need?
 
Yeah . . Lol. Welding is an option I am looking into. I have a TIG but cant ise it worth a s***. Lol
 
My .02, WELD it in place! after you get it bolted if you think you need them.
 
The rubber bushings have an extrusion that match up to the indent in the frame. Thinking they will neen to be shaved off so the bushing bracket can sit flush. Anyone know if it matters if i shave them . . .will the bushing walk?
 
Use 3/8" plate and cut a hole in it that matches the bump in the bushing.
 
Tap the plate with the size threads you plan on using. Then run a nut on the frame side over a bolt and weld the nuts to the plate. Drill a hole in the frame where the nuts will go and weld the plate on.
 
Fyi
 

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