Evans coolant a good idea or not?

[troyk]

I went to a couple sessions at PRI trade show this year & both seem to claim power is lost to heat absorption thru the head & piston. 1 person was obviously trying to sell their coatings, claimed ~5% loss wo coatings. The other was Ed Isky, which he was just telling old stories for the most part, not toting the company ad agency. He was talking about 50-60s test where he swapped heads on some NA motor to aluminum heads & lost 50hp. He called a buddy & said wtf is going on, I shouldn't loose that much power by swapping heads, I assumed they flowed similar. His friend asked him if he raised the compression by 1 point when he went to the aluminum, he said no. His friend said aluminum sucks more heat out of the combustion chamber & raising compression will compensate for the loss in heat expansion.

I'm hoping to start my new motor n the next couple months, I had bought Evans, but have not put it in yet. My hope was with Evans higher boiling point, that the liquid would not boil away from the hot spot, the head, & keep my engine cooler, but with the above info, I'm wondering if should stay with regular antifreeze? Any opinions on this?

This car will be driven 99% on the street. I'm shooting for an easy 9s at the track wo many tries at the track, since I don't have a roll cage. I currently have the tops & sides of the piston coated. I didn't know till the show that you can coat the chambers. My motor is already assembled & in the car & waiting on some final bits to finish up.

 

[~JM~]

You need an aluminum/magnesium safe additive if your engine has that type of material in contact with the coolant.

If the coolant system won't be exposed to freezing temperatures you don't need anti-freeze.

You might consider: http://www.rmi25.com

 

[dynoman]

I use RMI25 when the car is out of storage , and antifreeze when I put it away for winter .

 

[dynoman]

His friend said aluminum sucks more heat out of the combustion chamber & raising compression will compensate for the loss in heat expansion.

I think the key is it was a NA application , boost changes everything .

 

[earlbrown]

That's just basic science.

When you burn gasoline in a 4 stroke engine roughly 1/3 of the heat produced turns the crank, 1/3 heats the exhaust, and 1/3 heats the water jacket. (that's why turbo's work, we can reclaim some of the 1/3 waste heat in the exhaust pipe).

Aluminum has more thermal conductivity than cast iron. So it sucks a little more from the 1/3 that turns the crank and puts it in the water jacket. The side effect is less heat in the cylinder. Less heat equals less pressure. That's why you have to add compression when changing to aluminum.

With an adjustable wastegate we can use a turbo to bring the cylinder pressure back up (or in our case, the ragged edge of detonation) but that's not the right way to do it.

 

[SS/GN]

Nick has done lots of testing on fleet stuff and it gets beat up pretty good. I think the RM125 is a better deal.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I think the idea of cool op temps, such as use of 160 stats, is counter productive. A crutch, originally used to compensate for less than great intercooler performance?
I/c design/performance has come a long way, and could be a big help w/ the IAT issues. One would not have to be concerned, trying to maintain a 160* water temp. NASCAR at >200*F, seems to be livable.
A compression bump, and a good intercooler design, would be where I'd look. 9.5:1? 10:1?

Bottom line, the engine is a heat pump, and there's no way to get around that there are losses. The trik is to manipulate the numbers, and keep the crank in the block...

Back under my injector bench......

 

[earlbrown]

I think the idea of cool op temps, such as use of 160 stats, is counter productive.

No kidding. I switched over to a 180 years ago. The only change I could log was that my heater started working again and my gas mileage improved.

Since cylinder temps during a detonation even are measured in the thousands I don't think 20 whopping degrees really matters.

 

[No disintegrations]

As far as loosing 50 hp from aluminium heads goes.
The combustion chamber prob had a different burn rate and shape. They probably could have gained back the 50 hp with a tad more spark timing.
I don't think the heat and power can be wasted in the nanoseconds during piston travel.

 

[robertf]

I've used Evans in several car over the years. Never had issues. Lots of information on it. Jay Leno even had a Rep on his show promoting it.

 

[michael evans]

Not sure about the RMI125 but with the Evans coolant, you have to flush the entire water system if you have ever used water in it.

So that is an added cost.

 

[1KWIKSIX]

RMI-25 all the way here........I even run it mixed in with my Prestone Antifreeze.......it has lowered my engine temps an estimated 10degrees.
I too have switched back to a 180 deg thermostat with no regrets.

 

[Jerryl]

Not suggesting Evans is good or bad.
Just looking at the latent heat comparison.

 

[troyk]

Ouch 35% efficient, 50/50 antifreeze is 50% I thought, when comparing to water.

 

[earlbrown]

Does anybody actually run 50/50?? The most I ever use is 20%.

 

[troyk]

Not sure about the RMI125 but with the Evans coolant, you have to flush the entire water system if you have ever used water in it.

So that is an added cost.

It is a bit expensive, but they also make "Evans Cooling Prep Flush" for $32 a gallon, to suck up the water. I have a new motor build so now is the best time to decide which way. I did buy a gallon of this to slush around in the bottom of the radiator.

 

[TurboTGuy]

Phoenix, AZ. In the summer, we regularly see 80, 90, or 100 days in a row of over 100 degree temps, every summer, not just once in a while.

I'm an RMI 25 user, and it works.

Enough said.

 

[robertf]

Does anybody actually run 50/50?? The most I ever use is 20%.

You know I've strongly considered running either Honda's or Toyota's 50/50 coolant. Of all the Toyota's and Honda"s we've owned in the past I've never had a dirty radiator or any cooling system issues
even way past the 100,000 mile mark. I'd love to hear others opinions on this.
I'm currently running distilled water and RMI 25 but with the temps dipping in the 20 this week, I drained my block just in case. Even though the car sets in a garage.

 

[dynoman]

Once you run RMI 25 a couple of times ( change out the coolant ) you will see the crap that comes out , then it will be clean afterwards . Also if you pop a head gasket it won't hurt the bearings like an antifreeze will .

 

[DSEROVY]

I sell (and use) Evans here at the cycle shop.
In the offroad world, overheating and loosing coolant is common when you in tight, slow situations with no airflow over the radiators. The high boiling point of Evans is it's main selling point. If my car got anywhere near boiling over, I would stop driving and find the problem.
I've never used the RMI-25 in my car, but have had good results with water & Red Line Water Wetter in the warmer months.