enlarged oil mains,want to go back stock

They are harder on the bearing because the cam has less surface area to spread the load on the bearing. Ive been using a Clevite aluminum bearing on the #1 location whenever i put a grooved cam in an engine. I have a driver thats works perfectly for installing the new bearing. The engine in my sig is an example. Over 150k on it and oil pressure is 80+ psi at 6k rpm with stock pump gears and hot 30w oils.

could you turn me on to the part # of the clevite cam brng your`re talking bout---if I goto all this trouble to pull out the eng,I`m going to reverse the drilled mains for sure and inst zero gap rings and a few other things BUT for sure look at everything else for low oil pressure.I`m just trying to get all the info on this so I dont miss anything.Only want to this once (I hope)-----thanks
 
I never have ckd the lifter bores,I used comp cam lifters and never really thought bout it.What should they be,that is ,the clearance between the lifters and bores---havent looked at the oil galley plug,explain this to me

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Looking at the block forward. The larger hole on the bottom of the passenger side is your suction from the oil pan. It goes through the timing cover then enters the block above the suction hole. Don't get confused with the bolt holes. The oil then makes a sharp 90 to feed the turbo (brass fitting) and oil galleries (towards front cam bearing).

You see the cast bosses. The factory drills a hole from #1 main into lifter gallery. When the hole is drilled, it breaks into the back of #1 cam bearing. On both side of the #1 cam bearing is your lifter gallery plugs. The factory drilled a passage down the entire length of the block on both sides. The oil goes around the backside of the cam bearing to the driver's side oil gallery and feeds the lifters, pushrods and rockers. The passenger side get oil direct.

If one of those little lifter gallery plugs come out or leak, you loose oil pressure. Most like to tap the galleries and install threaded plugs. If you opt for the threaded plugs, the passenger side needs to be shallow so it doesn't block oil flow.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
8687prodfront.gif


Looking at the block forward. The larger hole on the bottom of the passenger side is your suction from the oil pan. It goes through the timing cover then enters the block above the suction hole. Don't get confused with the bolt holes. The oil then makes a sharp 90 to feed the turbo (brass fitting) and oil galleries (towards front cam bearing).

You see the cast bosses. The factory drills a hole from #1 main into lifter gallery. When the hole is drilled, it breaks into the back of #1 cam bearing. On both side of the #1 cam bearing is your lifter gallery plugs. The factory drilled a passage down the entire length of the block on both sides. The oil goes around the backside of the cam bearing to the driver's side oil gallery and feeds the lifters, pushrods and rockers. The passenger side get oil direct.

If one of those little lifter gallery plugs come out or leak, you loose oil pressure. Most like to tap the galleries and install threaded plugs. If you opt for the threaded plugs, the passenger side needs to be shallow so it doesn't block oil flow.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Good info,I`ll ck it out real carefully w/I pull it down.I drilled only mains #2 and #3,but,if my memory is good,the eng builder had some trouble installing #1 cam brng,,he had to put it in/take it out a couple of times before he got it in straight,I was standing there watching him do it.I think I`ll look here 1st b4 I pull engine-----thanks
 
I feel that one of the best oiling mods is the redrilling and reclocking of the cam bearings as described in the Buick Power Source Book. The oil hemorrage thru cam bearing number one is huge.
 
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