Engine Failure

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Sorry for your loss. Either alot work ahead or a roller for sale, good luck keep us posted
Yes. All kidding aside.

I hope you’re able to get it all back up and running.

And just in case there are any newbies out there who are looking at these photos........

We are only kidding .

It’s a total loss.
 
It will take a little while, but I will get it back together.
 
To tell the truth, I'm in the exact same boat. Though I might be able to use my old crank..........

I'll reveal details as they progress.
 
Tough loss.
no my friend,ive made alot more power longer with no problems.i have hurt blocks/pistons before the stock crank went.
Somewhere on this board someone stated that the turbo could withstand 900fwhp. Don't know if that is a fact, but guys have ran into the 9's with the stock crank, without a girdle. Bison and Gaby Rojas. The crank out of the 3800 series engine has been able to handle 800wrhp +. Didn't realize nodular iron was so strong.

Anyway, tough break for Nigel. This happened to me, but I detonated at 24psi of boost. Crank went into the oil pan. Broke on of the main saddles and that ruined the block.
 
Just sorta planning at the moment, will be a couple months before I pull the trigger. I figure I am down for this season anyway. I don't plan on changing my combination much, will keep the 5858, heads, cam if still good. Will do smart maintenance stuff like new fuel and alky pumps, clean flow injectors, ARP hardware ....

Short Block (nothing fancy):
Good stock block, properly checked and machined.
SCAT internal balance forged crank (I know rotating assembly balance is required, but will this drop in dimensionally i.e. no additional machining required?)
Stock reconditioned rods(not the ones in the pictures:p)
Speed pro forged pistons
TA balencer
Neutral balance flywheel

I know there is more to it, just outlining the basics.

Any good reason not to do the above?

I was quite content with the way the car ran, so just looking to do a smart, solid rebuild without overkill.
I know guys here have taken the stock crank a lot farther than I did, but my experiment is over in that area.

Thanks for the comments and interest so far.
 
You might as well add forged rods and billet caps. I think it only makes sense. It does add more money and a little more time to the project but if I was doing an engine rebuild after what happened to you everything would be upgraded.
 
I'm assuming the block had a flaw in it...or stress/heat cycles took their toll from 30 years. So what can be done about strengthening the block...other than a girdle.
 
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