Engine Failure

SCOOBY DOO said:
I'm assuming the block had a flaw in it...or stress/heat cycles took their toll from 30 years. So what can be done about strengthening the block...other than a girdle.
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When I get back home and get the engine out I'll post more pics. I don't know what went first, the block or the crank.
 
rag231 said:
You might as well add forged rods and billet caps. I think it only makes sense. It does add more money and a little more time to the project but if I was doing an engine rebuild after what happened to you everything would be upgraded.
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Billet 2/3 caps are a good idea. I have heard the stock rods are good pieces.
 
Sorry about the extent of the damage. When you go back together with your engine I'd seriously consider some forged steel rods and 2 center steel main caps as stated previously.

Neal
 
Stock rods are good pieces but at your level, you are running faster than 7 second 1/8 mile times and you have a ton of high tech gadgets on your car. Some of it, I have no clue what it is. Nail your combo and turn the boost up and you may be going even faster, pick up a couple of 10ths, look back at your combo and your weak link is your rods. Then fear strikes, you start posting questions like, how much hp can stock rods support. Do I tear my engine down again to change rods, leave Boost levels where I am at because I am happy or forge my bottom end so I can keep playing without fear and stay one step ahead of the average Mustang, Camaro or Hellcat anything on the road. ( The Demon is a different story , you will have to bring a bigger gun to the gun fight than a 5858, sorry.) I am just kidding, I dont know what your goals with the car is or how much you do play with it. Just looking at your combo in your sig screams "I want to go FAST!!"
 
Rephrase - Hellcats are fast too. I admire the car and motor , just kinda heavy.
 
Everything is on the table. I am not opposed to doing the rods, just don't want to invest in parts that I don't need. I currently don't see myself pushing the car much faster than what it is doing right now. 5 years from now that may change.
 
Lou Czarnota and Nick Micale both offer an excellent forged piece.
 
I'd think twice on those Speed Pro forged pistons. They are heavy as hell. If your goal is less stress on the components, I'd look at avoiding anything overweight (and outdated).
 
Man Nigel, my condolences dude! Holy smokes don’t ever let anybody accuse you of half arsing anything! As I don’t think you could break it much worse? Wow!!

Hope you get it figured out soon and everything goes smoothly! Keep us posted as to what you go with!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nigel said:
Everything is on the table. I am not opposed to doing the rods, just don't want to invest in parts that I don't need. I currently don't see myself pushing the car much faster than what it is doing right now. 5 years from now that may change.
Click to expand...
Hell just get a 3800 series 2 block. Tougher because a lot stuff has to be fabricated, but the block and bottom end are a lot stronger than the 109. You can get away with using the stock main caps, which are cross-bolted and stock crank. If I had the cash to pick a up roller and all the other parts I would build a 3800 powered GN or T. I have a completed machined block with ARP studs and cross-bolts for the mains and ARP studs for the heads. You have your choice on the heads, the NA ones or SC ones. Either can be used. GBGN1, who did this conversation used NA heads on his. This way you don't need to worry about your block failing if you run a 109 too hard and you don't have to pay $4000 for a TA Performance block.
 
Thanks to all for the feedback, lot's to think about.

My biggest concern right now which I have not heard an answer to is will a new crank require modification or will the flywheel and balencer fit with no mods?
 
MCH86GN said:
Hell just get a 3800 series 2 block. Tougher because a lot stuff has to be fabricated, but the block and bottom end are a lot stronger than the 109. You can get away with using the stock main caps, which are cross-bolted and stock crank. If I had the cash to pick a up roller and all the other parts I would build a 3800 powered GN or T. I have a completed machined block with ARP studs and cross-bolts for the mains and ARP studs for the heads. You have your choice on the heads, the NA ones or SC ones. Either can be used. GBGN1, who did this conversation used NA heads on his. This way you don't need to worry about your block failing if you run a 109 too hard and you don't have to pay $4000 for a TA Performance block.
Click to expand...


How do you bolt a transverse FWD engine up to a 200 RWD trans?
 
Build it right build it once . Unless u are one of those that likes re using stock parts because u want to see how far u can push 30yr old parts
 
Nigel, anything new crank or combo offered as drop in should still be checked. I like the idea of a real harmonic balancer if you're pushing it. Just my opinion.
 
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