engine crank no start

K

krisking94

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2014
So I got a 86 the type a week ago. Was running fine for the most part. It would die if I got into the boost at lower speeds. Say sound 25-35. But higher pulls it wouldn't die. Then a couple days ago. Driving home from work. Got into the boost a bit around the 25-35 area. Car died. No problem started right back up. Drove a quarter mile down the road. Shut the car off went inside auto zone to check out what they had. Started car back up. Was running rough. Throttle response was getting bad. Car started chuggin. Basically limped it home. Parked it for a couple hours. Then tried starting it again. It started. But it was idling rough then the car died. And now won't start again. Replaced the MAF and replaced the crank sensor. Still not starting. Car has 3 inch single shot exhaust. Terry Houston down pipe. I believe 42.5 injectors (green band) and a aftermarket fuel pump of some sort. Has a hot wire kit for the pump. And a unknown chip. If anyone can please give me some ideas to get it going I'd appreciate it. Just got the car and it sucks it's already not running. Btw the car is getting spark
 
Suggest a visit to Vortex Buick site, and a run thru on the troubleshooting chart.
Also a search here will bring up a bunch of posts/threads ...It's a common issue that gets posted frequently.
 
This could be any number of things (e.g., cam sensor bolt not snug and allowing cam sensor body to move around). A no start is much easier to diagnose than a rough running issue. Follow the no-start tree step-by-step and you'll figure it out in short order. MAF has nothing to do with whether or not the car will start or not. Don't waste your time there.
 
87geeinn said:
This could be any number of things (e.g., cam sensor bolt not snug and allowing cam sensor body to move around). A no start is much easier to diagnose than a rough running issue. Follow the no-start tree step-by-step and you'll figure it out in short order. MAF has nothing to do with whether or not the car will start or not. Don't waste your time there.
Click to expand...
Can you provide the link to the no start chart? I greatly appreciate all the responses. I know these cars can have minds of their own sometimes
 
Check the pins on the ECM to make sure they are in tact. I had one rust away I'd hit a bump and the car would shut off while driving. Make sure your TPS is within range hopefully you have a scan master.
 
TRICKSIXPA said:
Check the pins on the ECM to make sure they are in tact. I had one rust away I'd hit a bump and the car would shut off while driving. Make sure your TPS is within range hopefully you have a scan master.
Click to expand...
Nope no scan master :( also the rpm gauge sticks up. And I heard when it does that it's the coil pack either going out or its just done for
 
If you're referring to the LED bar gauges in the dash, those are always wacked out but have nothing to do with how the car runs nor are they an indicator of a bad engine component. The gauges just suck. (n)

Highly recommend that you spring for a Scanmaster, fuel pressure gauge and a factory service manual if you intend to repair and keep the Buick going.

Here is the Vortex site link:
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/troubshootgeneral.htm
 
Well you need to get a scan master!! Those factory gauges for boost and tach just ignore them. 90% of the time they do not work right.
 
MeanBuicks said:
If you're referring to the LED bar gauges in the dash, those are always wacked out but have nothing to do with how the car runs nor are they an indicator of a bad engine component. The gauges just suck. (n)

Highly recommend that you spring for a Scanmaster, fuel pressure gauge and a factory service manual if you intend to repair and keep the Buick going.

Here is the Vortex site link:
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/troubshootgeneral.htm
Click to expand...
Well going to Buick nationals next week so hopefully pick up one there
 
The gas gauges tend to show 1/4 tank when actually empty. Did you verify fuel pressure like Nick mentioned?

Rick
 
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