Electrical fault with Alky kit ?(Razors)

[Timbuick]

Hi guys,
I have an intermmitant electrical fault with my alkycontrol kit which could lead me to blowing a gasket so advice appreciated.
Sometimes, when I turn on the alky kit the 'alky spraying' neon is already glowing a faint red. It should be off until the alky start spraying.
I think I've traced the fault to an electrical connector which comes off the main control unit which I have behind the glovebox
. I've enclosed a pic as i'm not sure what this connector does/is called. If I unplug it and then replug it making sure its firmly connected the alky system sprays correctly. The only problem is; the system can work perfectly and then go on the blink and leave me without alky. What's the likely cause?

 

[pacecarta]

a short in the pump motor would also cause this as the controller works by applying the ground to control the speed

check your pump for water or methanol damage

 

[Timbuick]

Thanks,but I dont think it's the pump. I rebuilt that recently and never use the car in the rain. It does seem to be in that electrical connection. If I undo and reconnect it, usually it comes good.
Just to add to the thread, the neon on the unit where you switch the alky on failed some while back, but as the 'alky sprating' neon works I ignored it. something there maybe?
I have to add that the kit has been very reliable and i would recommend it.This is just something I have to solve.

 

[Grumpy]

why not just call Julio ??? He may know something about it

 

[Timbuick]

I'm sure Julio will see the post. I'm in the UK so phone calls are a little expensive!

 

[Grumpy]

well we do have an email system over here you can try to

 

[Razor]

Thanks,but I dont think it's the pump. I rebuilt that recently and never use the car in the rain. It does seem to be in that electrical connection. If I undo and reconnect it, usually it comes good.
Just to add to the thread, the neon on the unit where you switch the alky on failed some while back, but as the 'alky sprating' neon works I ignored it. something there maybe?
I have to add that the kit has been very reliable and i would recommend it.This is just something I have to solve.

A CAT5 coupler is only a few dollars. Less than a phone call to the US. And they are available all over the world.

Start by replacing the connector.

And yes.. email works wonders

 

[Timbuick]

Thanks Julio, I didn't know what the connector was called, so I'll try that first. I didn't email directly as sometimes other member can benefit from these threads.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I didn't email directly as sometimes other member can benefit from these threads.

plus 1

 

[Timbuick]

OK the problem persists . I changed the Catb5 coupler for a new one and went for a drive. All good and alky working perfectly.
However, as I drive back into town I see the 'turn on'LED is shining red even though Im not using the alky system (driving without boost).
I park the car and lok behind the glove box, visually check all connections. The 'turn on' LED fails to go out. As I turn the ignition off the LED goes from red to green and turns off.
it has to be a wiring fault, but which part of the circuit should I focus on? I still have the install instructions, but I need experienced input.
The only other thing to report is that the LED in the test unit/Ally on has not worked for a while, but as the system was otherwise fine I ignored this.
By the way, if anyone thinks I'm putting this info on the forum as some sort of criticism that is not my intention. I couldnt drive the car without The alky control,system, I'm a real fan, just need to diagnose what is wrong currently.

 

[Razor]

So the LED inside the remote box is not working. Meaning the RED "power" led that lets you know it has power?

The turnon LED(red-green) only can activate under two conditions. 1, Someone pushes the TEST button. or 2, signal on green wire is greater than turnon point.

Lets work on Easy first. Lets get the Red LED on the box to work. Open box it has 2 leads on the LED. One goes to the TEST button, the other through a resistor to the power switch. Either its missing power or missing ground. Since you where having issue with the coupler thats why I suggested that first. But since thats been replaced, check connections inside box. The lead thats bent at a 90 degree angle and goes to the TEST button = ground. You can check continuity from that lead to chassis. Should be a short.

Once we get this red LED working, next would be why is it activating?? First approach would be disconnect green wire input from PAC controller. This way it can only be a TEST button failure. If the problem still persists.. cut the wire on the test button. The test button has two legs. One has a connection to the ON led and the other is signal to controller. You can cut the signal one. Test will not work when you cut it, but neither should the Turnon LED light up.

Post back what you find.

The reason for emails is I get to emails quicker than I get into forums. As 99% of my business comes from email related.. thats where i'm at all day. Then "as time permits" I come here and see if anyone needs help. So email has my attention..

If you want to post here.. no problem. It doesnt create any issue for me.

 

[Razor]

Wanted to add.. you could have a dirty ground on the MAP sensor. That would also cause controller to activate. If you unplug MAP that may be another simple test. meaning if you unplug it, LED no longer turns on.. then its a map/wiring to map issue.

 

[Timbuick]

To anyone that was subscribing to this thread here's the fix:
Lots of communication with Julio who set me a series of tests to do, but in essence it comes down to one thing
EARTHs!
Even if they feel tight/look good. Check them. If in doubt find a better earth point.
My car is now working correctly. The PAC had an intermittant earth fault.
Thanks to Julio/Razor.

 

[longball]

[quote="but in essence it comes down to one thing EARTHs.[/quote]

what are EARTHs? earth point? earth fault? Googled it - nothing to do with alky injection!?

 

[Timbuick]

Ok, depends on set up, but in my case there are three crucial earths. One where the pump is connected to the front bumper bracket (that's where my pump is located), one that comes from the plug in to the MAP sensor which I have fitted to my inner wing. A third comes from the PAC, it is the pair of wires, one red and one black wire that come spirraled together. Red to fuse box for power, black to earth.
I have the latter earths both vibrate just a touch loose and cause a problem. Just thought i'd share in case anyone else has this problem. Just common sense i'm sure, but it caused me some problems until Julio made me check everything

 

[longball]

got'cha

 

[Razor]

In the US it's "grounds"
In the UK it's "earths"

Tie the black wire from the PAC to the bolt that holds the dash above the e-brake pedal

 

[Timbuick]

AAh, lost in translation!
Ok on the dash ground, too, thanks.

 

[Warp6]

I ran into an odd issue with my Alky system too. One day I noticed the red power light was not illuminated. It just mysteriously went out and the Alky system was not working. I went under the dash and found one of the CAT5 plugs had come out of the coupler. I really didn't think much of it so, I plugged it in. I turned the ignition on and the red "power on" light was lit on the controller. I then turned the ignition off and tucked the wires back under the dash and replaced the lower dash panel so I could take the car out. I put all my tools away jumped in the car, turned the key and the light was out on the controller again. I got the tools out and removed the lower dash panel to find the CAT5 wire had come out again. I plugged it in and listened for the "click" to confirm proper plug engagement. With ever-so-slight twisting of the wire, the plug will come out. It would come out during the "tucking away" of the wiring. I noticed both ends of the plug would come out, even after the reassuring "click" during plug engagement. I'm not twisting the wires firmly at all to make them come out. Just the slightest angled pressure on the plug and out they come.
To fix it I loosely wrapped a wire tie around the base of each plug. Then joined the base ties with two more ties going across the coupler.
After the wire ties going across have been run through the base ties, pull the base ties tight. Then, pull the ties going across tight. This pulls the plugs toward each other preventing them from coming out of the coupler.

 

[Timbuick]

Yep, that was how I started out, chasing one thing and in my case, without looking at other basics as well. All working fine now. In truth, the alky kit has been excellent, any issues have been down to myself and Julio's patience in helping me trace the causes has been admirable. Especially when I called him on July 4th without thinking of the importance of that date to Americans!
As a Brit we tend to forget that particular date!