Electric cutout not closing fully

[Boostian]

I thought I fixed it by taking it off and tightening some screws. Didn't work

When it has current going to it, it will shut firmly. The minute the current lets up it slightly bounces open. I need to tap the switch very quickly and it will shut almost all the way

Any fixes? Unsure of the brand as I didn't see any markings when i had it off


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[Scott87]

Seems common for the butterfly valves to rattle.. My cutout leaks a little. . Rattles some also. .

A knife gate design would solve rattling. . I just haven't found one. .

Good luck with your cutout..

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[Boostian]

I wonder if I can rig a magnet up somehow. Just strong enough to keep it from rattling but weak enough that the motor can overcome it to open


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[dr_frankenstein]

Knife style.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Dougs-Headers/Dougs-Electric-Exhaust-Cutouts/1282659/10002/-1

 

[Boostian]

For $231 I'm gonna try some magnets and industrial hi-temp adhesive first. Thanks for the link!


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[dr_frankenstein]

your welcome,

ya i tried all of the other butterfly style ones... they sucked. spent the cash on a good one, never looked back.

 

[earlbrown]

For $231 I'm gonna try some magnets and industrial hi-temp adhesive first.

Keep in mind that heat kills magnets. Without seeing the cutout it's hard to say, but a well placed torque arm from an R/C car with a spring on it might be the ticket.

 

[VaderGN]

Any pictures of what these knife style cut outs look like installed, I've never seen these before.


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[dr_frankenstein]

Any pictures of what these knife style cut outs look like installed, I've never seen these before.


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Jegs link in post #4

 

[Boostian]

Keep in mind that heat kills magnets. Without seeing the cutout it's hard to say, but a well placed torque arm from an R/C car with a spring on it might be the ticket.

Heat does affect the strength of magnet, but it does return to strength as it cools. I know the cutout gets hot. I think I'm going to try some experiments with magnets and my IR thermometer. If that doesn't work as planned, ill start looking into the spring route.


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[84SFIGN]

your welcome,

ya i tried all of the other butterfly style ones... they sucked. spent the cash on a good one, never looked back.

What are the "good ones"? I need a set and don't want the rattle or the leak.......Thanks

 

[dr_frankenstein]

What are the "good ones"? I need a set and don't want the rattle or the leak.......Thanks

Generally ones that use a "Knife" style of valve, as in the blade slides in and out rather then pivot around a central point.

Ones that rotate around a central point require torque to hold closed tightly or to open. Exhaust pressure natually wants to open the valve. While a sliding "Knife" style of cutout the torque from the motor is simply to open or close the valve, no torque needed to seal closed. Thus, no matter how much exhuast pressure is tossed at the valve, the only working pices need to contrate on opening or closing the valve, not turning the valve with enough force to either open aganst or hold closed from the exhaust.

so any brand that displays these characteristics would be considered the "Good" ones.

or we can get over the electric stuff and use a dump pipe with a cap and 3 wing nuts. i really like the latter as the electric one is kinda one of those "COOL GUY" parts that grumpy bitches at us about.

 

[earlbrown]

or we can get over the electric stuff and use a dump pipe with a cap and 3 wing nuts. i really like the latter as the electric one is kinda one of those "COOL GUY" parts that grumpy bitches at us about.

Yep. and then use that money for ricer taillights, loud BOVs and flowmasters.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Yep. and then use that money for ricer taillights, loud BOVs and flowmasters.

Hey now! My under glow lights are an important part of high performance!

Lmao Earl!

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[BuickMike231]

Make sure there isn't a lot of carbon built up around the seat of the butterfly valve, I clean mine out every know and then. Makes a difference. Your motor could be crapping out too, seemed like mine kept getting worse until it stopped working. I replaced the motor and it's a lot better now.

 

[Boostian]

Generally ones that use a "Knife" style of valve, as in the blade slides in and out rather then pivot around a central point.

Ones that rotate around a central point require torque to hold closed tightly or to open. Exhaust pressure natually wants to open the valve. While a sliding "Knife" style of cutout the torque from the motor is simply to open or close the valve, no torque needed to seal closed. Thus, no matter how much exhuast pressure is tossed at the valve, the only working pices need to contrate on opening or closing the valve, not turning the valve with enough force to either open aganst or hold closed from the exhaust.

so any brand that displays these characteristics would be considered the "Good" ones.

or we can get over the electric stuff and use a dump pipe with a cap and 3 wing nuts. i really like the latter as the electric one is kinda one of those "COOL GUY" parts that grumpy bitches at us about.

I like the convenience of it. When I'm in a residential area I like it to be shut. But if the mood strikes me to open it up I can easily. Beats going under the car and dealing with hot wing nuts.


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