Ebay Header? What actually needs fixed on them?

landon86gn

New Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Ok ive been looking for as set headers for my GN and came across these EBAY headers and ive seen people post that they dont fit right. Im not able to spend $ 600+ for a set of Decent headers, and my stock ones have been welded too many times to count. My question, what is it that doesnt fit right about most of the ebay headers? Just wondering if it would even be worth my time to try and refab a set.

If anyone has reworked a set and could share their information/pictures it would be a great help in making this decision!
All info is greatly appriciated!

Thanks

Landon
 
Ill sell you mine never used for 2 bills....i paid much more 4 years ago. The welds are actually VERY VERY nice.. The only thing they need is the ports to be grinded and cleaned up a little bit and the section that needs to be v clamped by the turbo is just not as tight as the $800 headers. But what do you expect. here ill post pics..let me go take some
 
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I have a set of Hooker super comps that work great on my wifes car just bought a set of ta's
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Pay no attention to Dr. Buicks post!!! :p Well anywho im making a big classified post so just pm me if you have interest in the headers.
 
Ok ive been looking for as set headers for my GN and came across these EBAY headers and ive seen people post that they dont fit right. Im not able to spend $ 600+ for a set of Decent headers, and my stock ones have been welded too many times to count. My question, what is it that doesnt fit right about most of the ebay headers? Just wondering if it would even be worth my time to try and refab a set.

If anyone has reworked a set and could share their information/pictures it would be a great help in making this decision!
All info is greatly appriciated!

Thanks

Landon

There are tons of thread on the ebay headers. The tubes are off position to the ports, the ports are off on the heads. The tubes are thin as well. If you have access to a TIG and can do the work yourself then they may be worth it. If not then it won't worth it. Just my .02.:)
 
save up or dont buy any .... u get what u pay for unless u bought poston headers
 
only if u like cracks on every tube ?

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bought new 12 months later


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then i got t/a ss headers
 
I purchased a set of ebay headers a few weeks back. The crossover pipe on the ebay headers does not align with the two header v-band flanges. The bolt holes align with the heads fairly decent. As charlief1 mentioned, the port shapes could match better.

Someone mentioned thin tubes - the ebay headers I purchased are right around .070" wall thickness. Not terribly thin but they sure could be thicker. TA says their headers are .083". Flanges are nice and thick on the ebay headers.

As for the crossover pipe, I am going to cut and weld it to get it aligned properly. I may have to remove one of the bends completely and replace it. A quicker solution would be to cut the crossover pipe at some point put one of the stainless flex couplers in. Not the best idea for maintaining high velocity but it is probably easier than what I am going to do.

You may want to get a set of Remflex exhaust gaskets. The gaskets provided with the headers match the header ports more closely than the Remflex but I don't have a lot of confidence in the provided gaskets. Don't bother with the Mr Gasket exhaust gaskets - the port shape is wrong.

If you want decent header bolts and studs, you'll have to put together your own kit. ARP has 3/8" diameter bolts that are the correct length (1.25" for my set). You'll need 9 of those. Then you'll have to make four studs out of 3/8" stainless threaded rod. Match the studs you build to the factory studs.

Some type of lock washer will probably help keep the bolts from loosening. I'd still check them after a heat cycle or two. I am going to try a set of the Nord Lock vibration resistant washers instead of regular lock washers.

If you can do some thinking, cutting, welding and fitting these headers can be made to work. I don't see having anywheres near $700 in these headers when I am finished (cheapest set of TA's is $700). I understand many folks don't want to mess with it - that's fine as well.
 
I bought a set of ebay headers that are TA style so there was actually no problem with the crossover pipe as it's not as long to have a problem. I did have to elongate the hole on the left of the #6 port. I bought better V-band clamps as the ones they give you are garbage. I used the stock header bolts. The only major problem is the header to turbo flange is cocked to the right. So I opened up those 3 holes about 1/8" counter clockwise. Also the neck on the passenger side was 1/2" too short, which caused the inlet bell to contact the upper rad hose. This may not be a problem with an aftermarket turbo that doesn't have a long inlet bell. So I added another 1/2" flange between the one on the header and the turbo as I don't have a welder I used a gasket and high temp rtv. That solved the problem and the turbo sits perfect. Hopefully I'll get some time and get someone to fix it properly by cutting off the turbo flange, adjusting the clocking, and setting it up about a 1/2" higher.

I'm sctually glad I got them when I did. I payed $170 shipped and don't see the TA style anymore, only the ATR style.
 
Just look at where the v band clamps go on the Bejing performance egay headers...paper thin and yes they leak..they are junk!!!!! Spend the money and get TA's.

Fast, Cheap Reliable...pick 2
 
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