Eastwood Fender Roller for Rent
- Thread starter 87LtdT
- Start date
Bisher & Mario65, you both have asked to rent the tool at almost the same time...one by this post and one via PM.
You are both in FL.
The tool is currently in NJ and will be ready by Monday.
If either of you are in a hurry I'd prefer to send it to that guy first. If both in a hurry I will send to the guy who contacted me first.
I will send you both a PM regarding rental...in the meantime are either of you in a hurry or can one of you wait a couple weeks longer??
Thanks, Bob
You are both in FL.
The tool is currently in NJ and will be ready by Monday.
If either of you are in a hurry I'd prefer to send it to that guy first. If both in a hurry I will send to the guy who contacted me first.
I will send you both a PM regarding rental...in the meantime are either of you in a hurry or can one of you wait a couple weeks longer??
Thanks, Bob
mario65
Hot Roddicus Supersonicus
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2004
I paid on paypal.
Bob,
Please check and see if you got hit the 3%. I think if people send the money personal on paypal the receiver doesnt get hit with the 3%. I want to check that for future paypal use.
Bisher, I ll be quick about it and send it on as soon as I get finished. You can pm your address when you pay and Bob says go.
mario65
Hot Roddicus Supersonicus
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2004
Been working on my rears.
Very thick metal and it looks like 2 hours per wheel to do it slow and not try to break the machine. Its a beeoch. I am more wore out than 1 hour session in the gym. I have the stainless trim. It looks like with or without the trim its still slow. I decided to not use my two top screws on the stainless trim. I cleaned the trim and the body with thinner and put some double sided tape in there and used the other 4 non intrusive screws and the trim is on there tight especially since they are both rounded keeping the trim from wanting to slide.
You will need to set the axle on two jack stands and use a jack under the body to get the body up high enough to get a good angle with the roller.
Very thick metal and it looks like 2 hours per wheel to do it slow and not try to break the machine. Its a beeoch. I am more wore out than 1 hour session in the gym. I have the stainless trim. It looks like with or without the trim its still slow. I decided to not use my two top screws on the stainless trim. I cleaned the trim and the body with thinner and put some double sided tape in there and used the other 4 non intrusive screws and the trim is on there tight especially since they are both rounded keeping the trim from wanting to slide.
You will need to set the axle on two jack stands and use a jack under the body to get the body up high enough to get a good angle with the roller.
Thanks for the feedback...while I'm sure it's not easy, this is the first time someone has mentioned this much difficulty and never a mention of "thick metal" before.
My only on how to make it easier...lots of small bends instead of a few large bends. Would be easier, less stress on the tool, and less likely to crack your paint.
I would advise against trying to use engine power to rotate the axle & tool. I have twice received the tool torn all to hell...the flange that bolts to the hub has been severely bent...once I was able to get it straightened on a 20 ton press (8 tons wouldn't do it!!), the 2nd time was from my old buddy JCUADRA from CA who tore it to shreds and then wouldn't man up to even acknowldege it...just sent it on to the next guy like nothing happened...totally unuseable. What a dickhead!! My sincere hope is that the force it took to tear up the tool...also tore up his axle!!!
So I hope you continue to work hard and do it the right way
Bob
My only on how to make it easier...lots of small bends instead of a few large bends. Would be easier, less stress on the tool, and less likely to crack your paint.
I would advise against trying to use engine power to rotate the axle & tool. I have twice received the tool torn all to hell...the flange that bolts to the hub has been severely bent...once I was able to get it straightened on a 20 ton press (8 tons wouldn't do it!!), the 2nd time was from my old buddy JCUADRA from CA who tore it to shreds and then wouldn't man up to even acknowldege it...just sent it on to the next guy like nothing happened...totally unuseable. What a dickhead!! My sincere hope is that the force it took to tear up the tool...also tore up his axle!!!
So I hope you continue to work hard and do it the right way
Bob
mario65
Hot Roddicus Supersonicus
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2004
Thanks for the feedback...while I'm sure it's not easy, this is the first time someone has mentioned this much difficulty and never a mention of "thick metal" before.
My only on how to make it easier...lots of small bends instead of a few large bends. Would be easier, less stress on the tool, and less likely to crack your paint.
I would advise against trying to use engine power to rotate the axle & tool. I have twice received the tool torn all to hell...the flange that bolts to the hub has been severely bent...once I was able to get it straightened on a 20 ton press (8 tons wouldn't do it!!), the 2nd time was from my old buddy JCUADRA from CA who tore it to shreds and then wouldn't man up to even acknowldege it...just sent it on to the next guy like nothing happened...totally unuseable. What a dickhead!! My sincere hope is that the force it took to tear up the tool...also tore up his axle!!!
So I hope you continue to work hard and do it the right way
Bob
Yea if you love your car at all you will be scared to do anything but use your arm. I jacked up both sides of the axle with stands, took both tires off and used a jack stand to set the body at a height that would allow you to be able to use the right angle to get what you want to happen. I put it in neutral and just pushed and pulled for hours. It seems like nothing is happening when it is. Its just slow and work. There is no doing it without the tool I can tell you that, well unless you dont care to butcher your car. There is a good chance some people havent complained because they had already done it some with a wrench and they just used the tool to smooth it out. Newer cars are mutch easier to do.
I rolled mine using this tool over a year ago, and I agree that it was very hard work. I remember sweating my ass off for a few hours in the garage moving that thing back and forth over and over again. The results were great though and definitely worth putting in a little elbow grease. Thanks Bob for making this tool available for so many of us to use.
Hello Andy...good to hear from you. Didn't know you had to work so hard either.
I originally purchased the tool to roll my own fender lips on my '87 Limited Turbo. Almost 40k miles on it...and it's in such nice condition. Ultimately I just couldn't bring myself to do it...I'm just leaving it stock and setting air bag pressures so the wheels don't hit on launch. I'm giving up some in 60' time, but I just can't do something to the car that is undo-able
So I didn't know it is such hard work.
Bob
I originally purchased the tool to roll my own fender lips on my '87 Limited Turbo. Almost 40k miles on it...and it's in such nice condition. Ultimately I just couldn't bring myself to do it...I'm just leaving it stock and setting air bag pressures so the wheels don't hit on launch. I'm giving up some in 60' time, but I just can't do something to the car that is undo-able
So I didn't know it is such hard work.
Bob