Ductile roller, chime in

[Foost]

Debating on wether to go ductile or billet roller cam. I'm lookin to be a solid high-mid 10sec car on slicks. I got a limited budget but will splurge to save myself problems in the long run.
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

-foost

 

[n20junkie]

lots of posts on this topic, but if you want a cam tha twill last any time or is on a street can, billet is the only way to go.
Grant

 

[DR BOOST]

billet

 

[Louie L.]

I run both a billet on the GN and a ductile on the street car. In my opinion the savings are not that great last time i checked in between the 2.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Louie, do you have a list of parts and modifications needed to make those cams work?

I often hear, a roller is only $300, but lets be real;
timing set+
springs+
lifters+
push rods, and it seems proper to go with at least add+HD rocker shafts,
and if one is thinking some adjustable roller rockers, then add for the rockers +
new valve covers because the stockers will not fit (from what I read)

It seems that the cost of doing it from the starting point of a flat type cam, the cost of just the different cam is just a small part of the equation. Oh yeah, another thing I've wondered, if one gets adjustable rockers, will the stock push rods then work?

 

[GNVAIR]

I would definitely go billet for durability sake. If you are on a budget, I would forget the roller cam and stay with a flat tappet as you will be $800 to $1000 into it by the time you add up all the necessary parts. I'm sure you can think of other things to spend $800+ on. Just my $.02

 

[Sleeper-6]

I hven't had a problem yet.

Comp 212 ductile roller here. 7000+ miles on it and no problems. Total cost was about $700 for the cam, lifters , and pushrods. My timing chain and valve springs were still fairly fresh when I did the cam. Both are the same as when I had the flat tappet 206/206 in there.

 

[Nick Micale]

Re: I hven't had a problem yet.

Originally posted by Sleeper-6
Comp 212 ductile roller here. 7000+ miles on it and no problems. Total cost was about $700 for the cam, lifters , and pushrods. My timing chain and valve springs were still fairly fresh when I did the cam. Both are the same as when I had the flat tappet 206/206 in there.

We have installed over 20 ductile roller cam sets and not seen any problems at this point. Will not do one without a Rollmaster timing chain and HD shafts, or roller rockers, so this will increase the $700 cost.

A billet set up will cost much more . The cam must be machined, a cam sensor gear, spacer and hold-down parts are required for installation. Last set we sold was over $1300 in parts and machine labor [not including HD shafts or roller rockers] .

If the rear anti-walk kit is used for the billet cam instead of front hardware, cost would be less.

 

[BLACK MAGIC RACING]

Hey Nick, with a ductile setup, is the widely available roller cam button acceptable?

 

[Nick Micale]

Most of the ductile roller cam installs we have done used the GM spring-loaded roller button. A few have been done with a shimmed roller button. have not seen any difference so far.

 

[Foost]

Billet Roller cam setup with out pulling block?

Is there a billet roller cam setup that doesn't require the block to be pulled for installation/machining. I've seen one setup on whiteracing.com that claims that the only machining required is on the front cover. I was told that ATR had a roller cam that can be installed like a reg flattap cam with out any machining. I didn't see it on there site though.

 

[JeffG]

Nick,
Any reason why roller rockers are mandatory? I am running plain old SpeedPro replacement rockers and shafts with no issues so far.

Thanks,

 

[Foost]

Billet roller cam setup w/o pulling block

Is there a billet roller cam setup that doesn't require the block to be pulled for installation/machining. I've seen one setup on whiteracing.com that claims that the only machining required is on the front cover. I was told that ATR had a roller cam that can be installed like a reg flattap cam with out any machining. I didn't see it on there site though

 

[getchasum]

Re: Billet Roller cam setup with out pulling block?

Originally posted by Foost
Is there a billet roller cam setup that doesn't require the block to be pulled for installation/machining. I've seen one setup on whiteracing.com that claims that the only machining required is on the front cover. I was told that ATR had a roller cam that can be installed like a reg flattap cam with out any machining. I didn't see it on there site though.

ATR's requires no machining, BUT you will be looking at a custom length pushrod.

 

[Otto J]

You should not have to pull the block to install a roller cam kit, Some kits require machining the front cover,But it ill be removed to install the cam anyway.THere are kits that do not require any mods to the front cover.Do a little vendor research and make sure you PRIME THE OIL PUMP after its all installed

 

[Nick Micale]

Re: Re: Billet Roller cam setup with out pulling block?

Originally posted by getchasum
ATR's requires no machining............

ATR has the cam machined so their kit will then work as a drop-in install. It is a good system as we have installed a few.

 

[Lee Thompson]

Blown and injected

Adj. or stock rockers---doesn/t matter, you will need custom length pushrods as the roller lifters are longer ( stick up out of the bore farther to allow for the tie bar ). Some where in the 8.200 range compared to 8.700 range for stock push rods.

 

[Lee Thompson]

billet prices

Just finished helping a friend install a billet roller. Here are the ROUGH RETAIL prices.
Cam---$300
Lifters--$400
Roller rocker---$425
Push rods--$125
Machine work on cam--$75--$100
Parts for end of cam (PTE style)--$185
Rollmaster chain--$100

The machine work on the end of cam needs to be done by someone who knows what they are doing.
If not done correctly can lead to disaster.