Drove the car for the first time in a few months. Now I got some questions/problems.

[Jordan_J]

Alright so I finally got the car put back together after a cam change, balancer swap, crank sensor swap, front brake pads, rotors, hoses, and a drivers side caliper then went on a short cruise for like 10 miles. I took it on some country roads, around the neighborhood, to the gas station, and down the highway. Just giving it a little bit of love at all speeds to help break in the cam some.


ANYWAYS

The fuel is at 43# before I start it and when I looked at it while idling it said 38#. What is the difference between line off and line on? (Sorry I searched and couldn't find a thing.)

The BLM's stayed close to 128 a lot however when idling or not having my foot on the gas while rolling I noticed a few times that they dropped suddenly down to 90 and would stay there for up to a couple seconds. The Integrator bounced from 119-136 (the highest I saw it at, could have gotten higher).

The brakes worked fine however it seemed like they stuck a couple of times.

When I got on the highway and got up to speed at around 45+ something in the rear started whining really loud and kept doing it while I accelerated. If I cruised it didn't make the sound and I could hear it very slightly if I tried to listen for it. The sound kinda sounded like the passenger side but I am not 100% sure. Would that be a bearing going out? Or could it be the tires? They are at 25psi and I need to inflate them a little more.

Scan Master readings were as follows.

-O2's bounced from around 100 to 800 but stayed in the 600 range mostly.
-I didn't see any knock retard however I didn't get past 15 lbs boost at 6k (not floored completely).
-Bat 13.0v
-Int 119-136
-BLM 90 OR 124-132 (roughly)
-MPH never got past 55
-CLt never got past 190*
-ATS 71*
-RPM's mostly in the 900-3,000 range with one pull to 6k and I let off before it shifted.
-TPS idled at .48 I need to lower it some I think.
-IAC (can't remember)
-CC (can't remember)
-PL 2.5 I think?
-SP seemed to stay at 25.5 when idling (is that a good number for idle?)
-MAL (no codes set)

I gave it a little bit of gas here and there and it pulled good, didn't backfire, didn't stutter, nothing out of the normal besides that rear end sound.

 

[bmackinnon]

Looks perfect to me.... except lower the idle tps to 0.42-0.44 and make sure it gets up there good wot ... say > 4.5.... I use direct scan and not scanmaster, so I don't know what PL and SP are?? Perhaps someone can educate me? CC (O2 cross counts) should cycle (count) from 0-255-0-255... IAC should be 20-30 idling... or thereabouts...

Probably don't need to rev it much more than that.. and my opinion is that if you ARE going to bring it up that high, have it wot so that you will get all the fuel it's got, so it won't go lean... running hard at less than wot 'could' find you trouble....

 

[Jordan_J]

Looks perfect to me.... except lower the idle tps to 0.42-0.44 and make sure it gets up there good wot ... say > 4.5.... I use direct scan and not scanmaster, so I don't know what PL and SP are?? Perhaps someone can educate me? CC (O2 cross counts) should cycle (count) from 0-255-0-255... IAC should be 20-30 idling... or thereabouts...

Probably don't need to rev it much more than that.. and my opinion is that if you ARE going to bring it up that high, have it wot so that you will get all the fuel it's got, so it won't go lean... running hard at less than wot 'could' find you trouble....

Thanks, the PL is Pulse Width of the injectors and the SP is the spark. It's supposed to drop down to whatever it's programmed at when WOT and be high when cruising. Like during my cam break-in I noticed it was at 46 however I didn't check it while driving unless I was stopped. The occasional 90 BLM looks perfect too?

 

[bmackinnon]

The occasional 90 BLM looks perfect too?

Light throttle/coasting causes the O2 sensor to fly all over the place.... and is where the INT/BLM get their input... I wouldn't worry about a blip or two of the BLM as long as it stays where you state 99% of the time... could also be just random 'noise' in the signal... the electronics in these cars aren't exactly 'state of the art'.... lol... your numbers look great... :wink:

 

[Jordan_J]

Light throttle/coasting causes the O2 sensor to fly all over the place.... and is where the BLM gets it's input... (well, where the INT get's it's input, and the BLM adjusts to to force the INT to 128-ish.... actually it works opposite, but in practice it works either way... they both want to get to 128). I wouldn't worry about a blip or two of the BLM as long as it stays where you state 99% of the time... could also be just random 'noise' in the signal... the electronics in these cars aren't exactly 'state of the art'.... lol... your numbers look great... :wink:

Awesome, glad to hear it then. I definitely need to do something about my rear end whine. Searching google and listening to videos I'm pretty certain it's a bearing in the diff...hopefully it's not too hard to get to.

Thanks for the replies!

 

[bmackinnon]

Awesome, glad to hear it then. I definitely need to do something about my rear end whine. Searching google and listening to videos I'm pretty certain it's a bearing in the diff...hopefully it's not too hard to get to.

Thanks for the replies!

I edited my post.... I didn't explain the blm/int relationship very well... here is a decent article that does better...

Block Learn Multiplier and Integrator