CRYRO treated valve springs WHO'S selling them?

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BLACKHAWK38

New Member
Joined
May 26, 2002
ONE of the latest inovations to hit the racing industry is to CRYROGENICLY (COLD) treat all sorts of parts for more durabillity and less wear, CRANKSHAFTS, PISTON RINGS< CYLINDER BLOCK castings, valve springs, CAMSHAFTS, even spark plugs, BRAKE rotors,


JUST wondering who has throughts on this subject??

AND where to get it done?


REGARDS<> Blackhawk38
 
I'm not a expert by any means .but , did a lot of reasearch on the topic . and it has no down side . The first time I walked into the local Cryo shop to ask a few questions about the process and saw 6 fully crated factory Honda Canada race engines and 2 Alum Chevy BB's waiting to go into the freezer . I was sold :D :) . my next engine project has everything but the block and heads done . the cost is very reasonable eg: cam , lifters, timing chain - just under $50 . the more stuff I brought the better the deal .:)
 
You got to tell me more about this stuff man! Sounds like just the confidence booste I need to run a ductile roller and a regular double roller timing chain instead of the pricey billet pieces!.

Thanks,
 
just go to google and punch in Cryogenics and the word automotive . there is also a Society Of Engineers for Cryogenics that I recalled had alot of info .
 
well since I live in Ohio, I was thinking of using the same shop you did, what's thier contact info?
 
Originally posted by CTX-SLPR
well since I live in Ohio, I was thinking of using the same shop you did, what's thier contact info?
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I do not think it would make sense shipping stuff to Canada to be cryo treated . There are a few people who are doing it in the States .

Reeds Cams now offers cyro treating as a option when ordering cams now .


www.onecryo.com

www.300below.com

www.cryo-parts.com

www.cryoeng.com

www.metal-wear.com

www.cryogenicsinternational.com - some good info

www.cryogenicsociety.org - good info (go to "Cold Facts" and read the back issues )


that should keep you busy for a while . :) .
 
cryo

hi. their are a few place;s in mich. after all detriot is the motor city. frank.
 
Is it possable to put a complete motor in there?

I just got done with my Stage 2 buildup with all brand new parts and everything is assembled. could i put the entire assembled motor in there?
 
Originally posted by NOT FAST
Is it possable to put a complete motor in there?

I just got done with my Stage 2 buildup with all brand new parts and everything is assembled. could i put the entire assembled motor in there?
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yes , my guy does complete motors . It actualy is cheaper in the long run . he charges around $400-$500 for a complete engine . it can be done as long as who ever is doing it has a large enough "chamber " . last time I was there he mentioned that he did some kind of race Snowmoblie engine . The guy pulled right up to his dock with the actual race snowmoblie in the back of his pickup . pulled the engine out right there in the back of the truck . and reinstalled it the same way after it was cryo treated a few days later . . :) lol . I thought that was prety cool . :)
 
Originally posted by 87buick3825
I had a forward clutch drum done for a tranny . It just broke cleaner :eek:

RD
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I'm using it more for the the benefits it has for wear/stress on parts rather than as a strenghtening aid . :) I just purchased a new turbo and plan on that being cryo treated as well . it's worth a try .
 
well can someone give me a short version on what cryo treating actually does and how it would benefit??

thanks
 
I'll give you the some what shortened version. When a metal, particularly irons and steels are heat treated it changes the crystal structure from what is called Austenitic to Martinsidic. However becuase the process can only cool the part so fast you only get these to a certain depth on the part because they typically just use an oil bath to cool it down after the heat treating. The cryro freeze helps complete this cycle to a greater depth so it doesn't greatly increase the strength of the material but it does increase the fatique resistance. Basically it makes the material less prone to cracking and wear by thickening the layer of hardened iron or steel on the surface and relieving some of the residual stresses by creating a more gradual transition between the 2 grain crystal structures. I work in a failure analysis lab so I did my homework with the metalogists on this one. They said while the gains might be only marginal on aftermarket parts for the prices charged its worth it. I'm thinking the greatest good is for valve springs and other high fatique parts.

Just my $.01, my advice isn't worth anything more,
 
thank you that was just the info i was looking for...

so in your opinion, and everyone elses, would this help prolong the life of say a crank and cam or mainly items like valvesprings, rockers, and other high impact hi wear parts
 
Originally posted by 87ttypeV8
thank you that was just the info i was looking for...

so in your opinion, and everyone elses, would this help prolong the life of say a crank and cam or mainly items like valvesprings, rockers, and other high impact hi wear parts
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all the data and reasearch shows the answer to be yes . :) another good thing is that the process does not effect the dimensional structure of the part involved .
 
I don't think you can do a whole engine. It would be like trying to heat treat a whole engine. The different parts would all need different times at temp, and if the whole thing is assembled, you have no way to be sure that the interior parts are completely exposed to the cooling medium. Bearing surfaces on the crank, for example, would probably be protected from the cold, and wouldn't properly strengthen.
 
I'm going to agree with George here, they also say that all machine work should be done after the treatment. I'd do the parts individually and then check the tollerances afterwards because I have to disagree on the deminional shift, any time you change the temperature of a metal it changes size, some metals moe that others. When cryroing it the metals will shrink and relax the internal stress then when they are returned to room temp they will expand again and it is not garenteed that they will return to the percise orginal shape. I'd tear the engine down, cryro the crank, rods, cam, lifter, timing chain, pushrods, rocker shafts, valve springs and valves and leave the heads and block out. I'm not sure how this works on Aluminum so I'd do more research before trying it on pistons, rocker arms (unless they are steel), and the front cover, though I think it would likely help, but with Aluminum's greater coefficent of expansion I'd be leary about keeping tollerances and potential cracking in the complex passages of the front cover. Also shotpeen or tumble your valve springs before you cryro them, this will also help increase their fatique resistance.

more penny's for thoughts for me,
 
CRYRO PARTS TREATMENT Which company?

Originally posted by CTX-SLPR
I'm going to agree with George here, they also say that all machine work should be done after the treatment. I'd do the parts individually and then check the tollerances afterwards because I have to disagree on the deminional shift, any time you change the temperature of a metal it changes size, some metals moe that others. When cryroing it the metals will shrink and relax the internal stress then when they are returned to room temp they will expand again and it is not garenteed that they will return to the percise orginal shape. I'd tear the engine down, cryro the crank, rods, cam, lifter, timing chain, pushrods, rocker shafts, valve springs and valves and leave the heads and block out. I'm not sure how this works on Aluminum so I'd do more research before trying it on pistons, rocker arms (unless they are steel), and the front cover, though I think it would likely help, but with Aluminum's greater coefficent of expansion I'd be leary about keeping tollerances and potential cracking in the complex passages of the front cover. Also shotpeen or tumble your valve springs before you cryro them, this will also help increase their fatique resistance.

more penny's for thoughts for me,
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:)


Thanks fellows; seems this subject has sparked some interest,

I would like to deal with a company that is reliable to get a set of valve springs done,

Reed cams never returned my email about their CRYRO option they offer.

First kid on the block syndrome, NOT ENOUGH PEOPLE DOING IT< TO NEW TO THE HOT ROD AFTERMARKET< PRICES TO HIGH< THERE WILL ALSO BE SOME DIFFERENCES AMOUNG the processess used, some are better than others , CYLCLE TIME and rate of temp rise.

REGARDS<> BLACKHAWK 38
 
Originally posted by CTX-SLPR
I'm going to agree with George here, they also say that all machine work should be done after the treatment. I'd do the parts individually and then check the tollerances afterwards because I have to disagree on the deminional shift, any time you change the temperature of a metal it changes size, some metals moe that others. When cryroing it the metals will shrink and relax the internal stress then when they are returned to room temp they will expand again and it is not garenteed that they will return to the percise orginal shape. I'd tear the engine down, cryro the crank, rods, cam, lifter, timing chain, pushrods, rocker shafts, valve springs and valves and leave the heads and block out. I'm not sure how this works on Aluminum so I'd do more research before trying it on pistons, rocker arms (unless they are steel), and the front cover, though I think it would likely help, but with Aluminum's greater coefficent of expansion I'd be leary about keeping tollerances and potential cracking in the complex passages of the front cover. Also shotpeen or tumble your valve springs before you cryro them, this will also help increase their fatique resistance.

more penny's for thoughts for me,
Click to expand...

they say final machine work should be done after treatment . for example if getting a block done final hone should be done after treatment . I took my rods/crank into a machine shop before treatment and after to be check . there was no change after the treatment .

as far as doing a complete engine . there are tolerances build into a complete engine for expansion purposes due to heat . will these tolerances not play a factor in reverse ? am I making sense ??? but personaly I would get each part treated rather than the whole engine . and then check everything during final assembly .

Bottom line is that Cyro Treatment is something that should be considered . :)
 
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