Crankshaft

Nigel

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Jun 16, 2001
I would like to hear some expert opinion on crankshafts. A lot gets bandied about, but experience is extremely valuable. I have some basic engineering understanding, but would like to hear what has worked and under what conditions.

The choices are cast, forged, and billet.

Cast is the manufacturers choice. It is the least expensive to mass produce. Castings come in a variety of types. Investment, sand, die cast. The auto industry uses sand castings most of the time for engine components. A mold is made, then sand and resin is used to make the sand mold. Molten metal is poured into the mold and cured. Relatively inexpensive and gives adequate results. A casting is close to net shape and requires minimal machining. Castings have a fair amount of variability from part to part. Inclusions are common in castings which cause variation in life and strength.

Forgings are much better than castings, but the tooling has to be good to get the proper net shape(and the tooling is expensive). A forging can yield excellent material properties, much better than a casting. A one off is not going to happen with a forging. Forgings are also near net shape and reduce the amount of required machining.

Billet starts from a forged bar, and the final shape is achieved through machining, lots of machining. In most cases, the billet probably assures the best material properties, and certainly will provide a near perfect final shape and dimensions.

As to whether a forging or billet is better, stuff made in china is questionable. I would certainly be OK with a Chinese forging because I don’t make big power or spin high RPM. But for big power race applications, US manufactured billets, and US manufactured machined parts would be the way to go in my humble opinion(professional racing applications).

Achieving the right properties is either achieved through the casting/forging process or after. I am not a metallurgist nor am I going to play one, but heat treating is not a simple process and it effects the microstructure of the material. Materials have been engineered to achieve the strength and fatigue properties required for the application. The right properties resist cracks and crack growth, which is what will produce long life in a component.

Ability to with stand high cycle fatigue is as important as overall strength. A stock crank under stock conditions can probably last a million miles. The ability to handle higher cyclic loads decreases exponentially. Understanding this will help to decide what is best for a given application. I know the stock crank has been pushed fairly hard, but it would be good to know the condition prior to pushing it. Also, anybody know if the stock crank can be reconditioned to a “zero time” state? For mild applications this would great when it came time to rebuild.
 
I'm not running world record numbers but I have run a stock crank turned 20/30 at 11.2 racing it most weekends in 1/4 mile bracket racing. When I jumped to 1/8th mile racing I now run a stock std/std crank at 7 flat for bracket racing in the 1/8th. I shift the car at 5800 and the trap speed is 5500. Both cranks were magnafluxed before the build.

Grumpy has run into the 9's with a stock crank turned 20/30 with a girdled engine. Bison has run into the 9's with a stock shortblock as well.

FWIW I'd use a better crank...but the funds just aren't there.
 
I'm not running world record numbers but I have run a stock crank turned 20/30 at 11.2 racing it most weekends in 1/4 mile bracket racing. When I jumped to 1/8th mile racing I now run a stock std/std crank at 7 flat for bracket racing in the 1/8th. I shift the car at 5800 and the trap speed is 5500. Both cranks were magnafluxed before the build.

Grumpy has run into the 9's with a stock crank turned 20/30 with a girdled engine. Bison has run into the 9's with a stock shortblock as well.

FWIW I'd use a better crank...but the funds just aren't there.

Thanks. How many passes did you have on the last crank, and how many do you have on this one?
 
Nigel, between the two engines I'd guess somewhere in the vicinity of 2500 passes. I remember Grumpy saying he snapped a stock crank just driving down to the corner store for a bag of milk.

I'd say the stock crank is good for my power level...but anything higher than that is prolly a crapshoot.
 
That is a good data point. Your making more power than I am, and I don't think I am going to bigger when I freshen the motor. Stock crank and rods should be good for a while. I probably have a couple of years left in the current stock short block, so just thinking ahead. If I have to pull the engine again for some reason sooner, I am going to freshen it up.
 
Nigel, I sent a text to Tyler to step in this thread for his expertise. I can only relate data to the ET/MPH I run to the stock junks durability.
 
metal has a cycle life and a stock crank could let go and has without even being under a race condition , stock cranks have let go when just driving normal
what most are capable of achieving power wise is fine on stock crank , others are capable of exceeding what a stock crank can handle as it will flex and the bearings will show that . detonation will destroy parts rapidly and that holds for any crank. the forged can take a little more stress but if detonated or pushed too far the stock 109 block will be probably show to be the limiting factor , a girdled block can hold a little more but all bets are off with detonation
if your goal is to go over lets say 600hp the forged would be a better choice than a stock crank but it will cost more due to the fact most would go internal balance so you have to add in cost for balance of crank and a neutral balanced hub (torsional damper) and a flexplate and some forged cranks may need to be cut down to get the bearing clearances acceptable
if goal is 1000hp or less whether you are going to run a stock 109 or a stage block a billet crank is overkill especially with the cost over 2500 , the forged are rated for it and cost is reasonable compared to the rest of the build components
if building an all out stage block or TA block and have the rest of the parts to support it (like rods pistons, crank pin) a billet crank would be a wise choice as youll have a considerable investment into the build components as well as the vehicle that it will need to handle it
 
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I wrote it drunk last night, it is information pulled from a variety of sources and experience over the years. I am a professional engineer. I have a degree in aerospace engineering. I am a former Naval Aviator. I have a decade of manufacturing engineering experience and a decade of power plant and steam turbine engineering experience. I don't mind being questioned, but please do not accuse me of plagiarism.
 
I second Pacecarta....From experience... a 20/20 crank has lasted pretty well into the low 10's...10 teens - twentys.. the more power you make the more important "everything being right" is.... I was only a good track away from consistent 9.9's..

From high 10's to hight 8's the chinese forgings seems to be perfectly fine.

Seems like the recent forged offerings are enough for most any turbo regal owner.. anything getting into the power to go deep into the 8's takes more thought.. anything less than that is probably overthinking...seriously
 
after i posted that i looked to see if i could find a source for your content ,,no luck
i apologize
you write very well . looked like an article from a magazine
 
after i posted that i looked to see if i could find a source for your content ,,no luck
i apologize
you write very well . looked like an article from a magazine
No sweat, I would certainly give credit where it is due. In spite of having some knowledge, experience with the real stuff is always best. So thanks for the feedback, as I know you have built a lot of engines.
 
Stock cranks in our TR's are nodular iron. A slight step up from standard cast? I'm not a crank guy but in past threads the nodular iron plus the rolled fillets made our cranks more desirable that just cast.
 
Possible dumb question.

Is there any heat treatments, cryogenic treatments, or coatings that can enhance the strength of the stock crank?

I suppose if there is, it may cost about the same as an imported forged crank.

I hate buying & using Chinese products!
 
Years ago when we were first getting GN's into the mid-10's, we found lots of main bearing wear due to crank flex.The wear was less than we encountered on the Buick 455 V-8 Buick engine also had lots more of flex and wear on main bearings.

The crank flex is also transmitted to the cam shaft via the timing chain, and this was also displayed by excessive wear on the front cam bearing.

We installed the first Eagle crank in a 3.8, and bearing wear was no longer visible.

Eagle supplied us with a material data sheet for the China forged crank which was about the same USA data, and we never had to turn or repair any Eagle V-6 crank out of the box.

With the stronger, stiffer forged crank, we saw no need for a girdle as the weak point became the block web from the crank saddle to the cam tunnel.

We have installed well over 100 China cranks w/o and issues for install or performance.

One China crank we used in an engine and the rear main leaked very bad due to poor machining on the knurl. This was from a vendor we never used again, he is no longer selling cranks.
 
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Possible dumb question.

Is there any heat treatments, cryogenic treatments, or coatings that can enhance the strength of the stock crank?

I suppose if there is, it may cost about the same as an imported forged crank.

I hate buying & using Chinese products!

This was what I was driving at asking the question can the crank be reconditioned to the "zero time" state. Probably not a big market, if any, for this kind of service. The other piece would be detecting defects/inclusions. If I am not mistaken, magnaflux will only find defects that extend to the surface. To find casting defects below the surface x-ray or maybe ultrasonic inspection would have to be used. That's probably the biggest drawback to the casting. It would be good to be able to reuse the stock crank, but not if it cannot be reasonably evaluated/reconditioned.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback so far.
 
Nigel, what is your intended use?

Nowadays, with Eagle, Scat and the others making forged cranks, I wouldn't even bother with stock cast cranks.

Like what Nick and Pacecarta said. I too used a first production Eagle crank and had no issues. I know of a few that used the Eagle forging in a BMS block and all is well.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Nigel, what is your intended use?

Nowadays, with Eagle, Scat and the others making forged cranks, I wouldn't even bother with stock cast cranks.

Like what Nick and Pacecarta said. I too used a first production Eagle crank and had no issues. I know of a few that used the Eagle forging in a BMS block and all is well.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

I think smart money is on a forged replacement, even though it would be desirable for me to be able to reuse the stock crank and rods. Horsepower would be around my current level, future would be maybe E85 and tuning for E85.
 
I think smart money is on a forged replacement, even though it would be desirable for me to be able to reuse the stock crank and rods. Horsepower would be around my current level, future would be maybe E85 and tuning for E85.

Why would you even think about reusing 30 year old crank technology? The modern day cranks have current metallurgy vs 30 year old metallurgy. Sounds like you're looking for a reason to use a OEM crank.

I was speaking with Tom Lieb (owner) of Scat at PRI, says that he buys metal from the US and ships it to China for the cranks as the Chinese metal is not as good as US. He has the cranks made in China and ships them back to the US to be finished. He lives 6 months in China and 6 months in the US.

This past PRI, Eagle had a Buick V6 3.625 stroker crank on display.

Like what Nick stated, your block will thank you by having a less flexing crank.

Like the saying goes...."spend once, cry once"

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Why would you even think about reusing 30 year old crank technology? The modern day cranks have current metallurgy vs 30 year old metallurgy. Sounds like you're looking for a reason to use a OEM crank.

I was speaking with Tom Lieb (owner) of Scat at PRI, says that he buys metal from the US and ships it to China for the cranks as the Chinese metal is not as good as US. He has the cranks made in China and ships them back to the US to be finished. He lives 6 months in China and 6 months in the US.

This past PRI, Eagle had a Buick V6 3.625 stroker crank on display.

Like what Nick stated, your block will thank you by having a less flexing crank.

Like the saying goes...."spend once, cry once"

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

I don't have a problem replacing the crank when it is time for a rebuild, just looking to confirm it makes sense for my intended purpose. I don't want to chuck a good part, if it is still good and can perform its intended purpose. I appreciate what you posted about Scat, because I prefer to spend my money on US made products. I'm not a zealot over it, because it is getting to be impossible, but being made in the USA is always a factor, and it looks like Scat has a mostly made in the USA product which is a plus in today's world.

The intended use would be a street car, that probably sees 50 or so 1/4 mile passes a year. My guess on HP would be in the 550 range at the crank max. I don't think I am going to add a role bar, and I don't plan to start racing. I mainly like to tinker and run the car at test and tune.

Using a rough guideline of what Pacecarta and Scooby posted, a good condition stock crank can handle that power for what seems like quite a while. Part of that equation though is being able to tell what a good stock crank is, and it is a gamble to some degree. I've seen the posts where others have really pushed the stock parts, and my guess is more have grenaded the stock stuff and you don't always hear about it.

I actually like doing the investigation part like I am doing now, and appreciate people chiming in with their experience.
 
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