Cost of a "Good" Converter

[MCH86GN]

I know there are factors that determine cost, but I called PTC and got a quote on a converter and it was $400 - $450. I thought this seemed a little low, I was expecting more like $900.
I'm have a block rebuilt, forged rotating assembly, billet mains, Champion Ported Irons, 218/218 hydraulic roller, CEA 6265 Precision turbo. Not sure whether I'm going to LU or NL. My goal is low to mid 10's. I was wondering what other people paid for a converter with a similar build and goals. A general idea. I did PM Dusty, but I'm a little impatience.

 

[asloan5]

My 9.5 through dusty was in the area of 950.00 3-4 years ago. Was for th400


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[pacecarta]

if you called ptc they probably qouted you for a 10"

dustys spec'd 9.5"NL ptc is 950+

 

[Eticket]

Yep.. if you really wat low/mid 10s then a 9.5" is the way to go. I think Dusty has been tied up with work.
Also.. might be too late, but that's a big cam for your goals too. Unless it's already bought, I'd consider something smaller.

 

[kandc7]

10 in from dusty is 500 the nonlock up 9.5 1000. You need to have 9.5 nonlock up if you plan on running 10.5 or faster like you stated.. Or you are leaving HP on the table. No other way around it..

 

[Nick Micale]

10 in from dusty is 500 the nonlock up 9.5 1000. You need to have 9.5 nonlock up if you plan on running 10.5 or faster like you stated.. Or you are leaving HP on the table. No other way around it..

I do not know how many converters you have personally experienced, but I have installed many 10" non-lock up converters that will run low 10's, high 9's?

All cars and builds are different, and there is no one size fits all when it comes to converters, Each company has their own stall rating numbers which will vary between them.

This is a reason most good converters come with at least one free re-stall if it does not suit the owners performance expectations.

 

[MCH86GN]

Yep.. if you really wat low/mid 10s then a 9.5" is the way to go. I think Dusty has been tied up with work.
Also.. might be too late, but that's a big cam for your goals too. Unless it's already bought, I'd consider something smaller.

Thanks for the advice on the cam. Not sure if my engine builder has purchased it yet, but I've told him my goals and this was his selection.

 

[rag231]

Cost of a good converter is a grand. You didnt state which tranny you had either. If it is a 200 make sure it is going to be up to par. It sucks to put all that new horsepower together and your tranny fails and can't keep up. That brand new converter will be coming back out , cut opened, cleaned and rewelded. A new tranny rebuild will be on your plate to add to your "impatience." Happy horsepower hunting and "putting the power to the pavement!"

 

[20psiofevil]

That cam with .500 lift will make peak power around 5800-6000rpm. A .63 ar back housing would be a mismatch imo. If you went with a .8x t4 housing this would allow you to rev the motor out to 6000-6200rpm and the $500 converter would be much more efficient.

 

[V6sleeper]

In my experience after running a dozen converters its hard to find one under $800 new that performs well down low and up on the high end also.

 

[MCH86GN]

In my experience after running a dozen converters its hard to find one under $800 new that performs well down low and up on the high end also.

Well I had budget around $900 to $1000 for the converter. This summer I DO NOT plan on pushing my car, because I need my trans rebuilt with some beefed up parts. Right now it is stock. I'll have that ready for next summer - 2016, along with axles and a few other things.

What is interesting is that I ask about the converter price and I got more advice about my build.

 

[MCH86GN]

I'd like to thank everyone for their input. I got a question answered and answers questioned.

 

[rag231]

You figure, it 's a lot of people that have made "budgeting" mistakes by putting off something until next year just to get their car back on the road and something else happens. We hate to hear / read words like budget, impatient, and cheap, red flags go up. My biggest fiasco was my transmission. Like a dummy I had it rebuilt 4 times because I couldn't afford a really well built $2500 trans at the time. This was also prior to the billet internals coming out. Long story short I have about $3700 in it ( 4 rebuilds, shifter/ linkage, converter) and it's not even in my car. It's been on the floor for over 3 years. I am probably scared to put it in and it fail again, I might seriously dig a hole and bury it. Maybe when it's uncovered as a fossil in 100 years someone could appreciate the effort $$$$ that I put into it.

 

[turbo nasty]

In my experience after running a dozen converters its hard to find one under $800 new that performs well down low and up on the high end also.

This is outstanding advice. I have lost several tenths and mph in the 1/4 over the years trying different convertors that "Help it get out the hole" or "Will spool that turbo with no problem" only to have the car lay over on the slop/slip at the big end of the track.
In first and second gear the gears ratios help get things moving and when you get into 3rd its a 1:1 ratio and the load on the engine is changed and the torque multiplication through the converto goes to crap and the convertors just slips the fluid couplings power transfer to heat and slip.
IMO get the tightest convertor that you can get by with and that will help the slip on the big end.
Honestly..... people that want to spool the turbo easily out the hole just spin their tires off anyway so its a waste to have a high stall if you cant get traction. Also, I doont recommend ever running a non lock up without it having a sprag as it will cause a ton of heat with street driving.

 

[Mr.Spool]

My goal is low to mid 10's. I was wondering what other people paid for a converter with a similar build and goals

Around a 1000 give or take.I'm not a fan of cheaper converters.a higher dollar converter shines through over the long haul

 

[MCH86GN]

Around a 1000 give or take.I'm not a fan of cheaper converters.a higher dollar converter shines through over the long haul

Cheap and fast don't go together. I had around $900 budgeted, but that was based on prices I had seen in older posts. It caught me a little off guard when I called PTC and they quoted me $400 or $450. That's what lead me to start this thread.

 

[Quik Six]

Thanks for the advice on the cam. Not sure if my engine builder has purchased it yet, but I've told him my goals and this was his selection.

My combo shares a number of add-ons that you have; 6265 turbo, Champion iron heads and some of the items you plan to have such as the 218/218 cam and the PTC NL convertor from Dusty. The cam works very well for me but I do have roller rockers and a stroker kit that is 250+ inches. The stock transmission will not last long at the power level that your combo is capable of making.

Best of luck, you are headed in the right direction.

Phil Engle

 

[MCH86GN]

My combo shares a number of add-ons that you have; 6265 turbo, Champion iron heads and some of the items you plan to have such as the 218/218 cam and the PTC NL convertor from Dusty. The cam works very well for me but I do have roller rockers and a stroker kit that is 250+ inches. The stock transmission will not last long at the power level that your combo is capable of making.

Best of luck, you are headed in the right direction.

Phil Engle

Phil,

I certainly won't be pushing my car with the stock trans. As a matter of fact, even with my current combo I stopped running it at track. Right now I'm running a TE44, and I have managed to push my 3800# car(with driver) to 11.88 and trapping between 113-116. I have several people tell me my transmission might be ok or it might not at my current power level. That was in 2009. I haven't had my car back to the track since then. I also turned down my boost, to 15 or 16 PSI. Just for cruising. IDK, people like to make a lot of assumptions when they don't know the full story and love to deviate from the thread topic. I asked about a converter price and several responses didn't have anything to do with question I asked.

I do appreciate the advice, but make your point and move on. Don't keep harping about the same thing.

Everything thing that people have brought up in this thread, my engine and transmission builder Dave Roland and I, have discuss and have planned for. From the front to the rear of the car.

 

[Quik Six]

Phil,

I certainly won't be pushing my car with the stock trans. As a matter of fact, even with my current combo I stopped running it at track. Right now I'm running a TE44, and I have managed to push my 3800# car(with driver) to 11.88 and trapping between 113-116. I have several people tell me my transmission might be ok or it might not at my current power level. That was in 2009. I haven't had my car back to the track since then. I also turned down my boost, to 15 or 16 PSI. Just for cruising. IDK, people like to make a lot of assumptions when they don't know the full story and love to deviate from the thread topic. I asked about a converter price and several responses didn't have anything to do with question I asked.

I do appreciate the advice, but make your point and move on. Don't keep harping about the same thing.

Everything thing that people have brought up in this thread, my engine and transmission builder Dave Roland and I, have discuss and have planned for. From the front to the rear of the car.

Glad you have someone that works with you. I've been fortunate to have several fellow Buick people work with me on mine. Heading to the track with it after Memorial Day weekend to see what it will do with the changes that have been done.

Phil Engle

 

[josh young]

If your running the 44 a 2800 10" PTC would be what you need. I'd get with Dusty and deal with him and not the folks at the store.