converting to manual brakes, where to drill new hole in peddle??

[TakeAwayTheFear]

Ive just about got the damn master and peddle out, and replacing it with a pa racing kit. Does anyone have a pic of where the new hole is supposed to go in my stock peddle? or a measurement?

thanks!!!!

 

[mikes86ttop]

I was going to post the same question, I just got all the stuff for vac conversion except the pedal... Mike

 

[malibudave1978]

Ive just about got the damn master and peddle out, and replacing it with a pa racing kit. Does anyone have a pic of where the new hole is supposed to go in my stock peddle? or a measurement?

thanks!!!!

If you have the original Turbo Buick brake pedal, you should NOT have to drill. You should be able to use the power master pin that is already installed in the pedal. To double check, the best thing to do is to mock up the adapter plate and master cylinder out of the car by removing the brake pedal assembly from underneath the dash. Assemble the adapter and master cylinder to the pedal assembly on the bench first to see if you need to drill any additional holes. The push rod coming out the back of the master cylinder should be strait and not angle up or down when mounted to the pedal.

 

[malibudave1978]

I was going to post the same question, I just got all the stuff for vac conversion except the pedal... Mike

The easiest thing to do would be to find a vacuum booster pedal and use it in place of the power master pedal. The pedal is a bolt in.

If you want to use your power master pedal assembly, remove it out of the car and mock up your vacuum booster to the pedal assembly. The vacuum booster pushrod should come strait out the back of the booster and should not angle up or down. With the pushrod coming strait out the back of the vacuum booster, line the hole in the pushrod with your brake pedal and mark the center of the pushrod hole on the brake pedal arm. Drill the appropriate size hole for you pin at that mark.

 

[pacecarta]

If you have the original Turbo Buick brake pedal, you should NOT have to drill. You should be able to use the power master pin that is already installed in the pedal. To double check, the best thing to do is to mock up the adapter plate and master cylinder out of the car by removing the brake pedal assembly from underneath the dash. Assemble the adapter and master cylinder to the pedal assembly on the bench first to see if you need to drill any additional holes. The push rod coming out the back of the master cylinder should be strait and not angle up or down when mounted to the pedal.

its not going to work using the original PowerMaster pedal on vacuum , the PM pin is in the wrong spot and its a larger diameter pin than used on vacuum boosters, the vac rod wont slide on no way no how

am i to assume from your sig
"David Schultz
MalibuDave
www.manualbrakes.com
that you are a brake dealer or just a supporter ?

if you are a dealer and not a paying board sponsor you should remove that from your signature

 

[mikes86ttop]

Thanks guys I've got it allset, mocked everything up and drilled a hole and welded a new stud on... And it works flawlessly...thanks Mike

 

[TakeAwayTheFear]

that would be nice to not have to change anything other than the master assembly!!! i always thought i needed a new peddle or to drill holes etc.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Don't forget the return spring for the pedal.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Found a picture of the two pedals. Upper is PM with the pin cut off and a hole drilled for possible use as a manual brake pedal.

Lower pedal is a stock vacuum brake pedal with the upper hole being used for a manual set up. The pin to the right of it is for a vacuum booster set up.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[pacecarta]

on the billet specialties maual brake kit according to thier instructions on where to drill (based off a vaccuum pedal pin) i measured off a vac pedal and moved that to a PM pedal . it required cutting the PM pin off , welding hole closed and drilling the new hole for the supplied bolt about 5/8 " up from the PM pin center , on a vac pedal you wouldnt need to weld up the hole

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

on the billet specialties maual brake kit according to thier instructions on where to drill (based off a vaccuum pedal pin) i measured off a vac pedal and moved that to a PM pedal . it required cutting the PM pin off , welding hole closed and drilling the new hole for the supplied bolt about 5/8 " up from the PM pin center , on a vac pedal you wouldnt need to weld up the hole

Yes I agree, can see that the hole in the PM pedal picture I posted is too high. Plenty of leverage but not enough throw to properly operate the M/C. If one circuit leaks you won't get pressure on the remaining circuit. IIRC, I have some pedals around, I may be able to get a better picture.

The vacuum pedal already has the hole for the manual M/C, just need to utilize it somehow. It's been a while, but that hole is likely tapered, I think I drilled it to 3/8" and used a 3/8" grade 8 bolt to retain the heim end of the pushrod.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Found the pedals, the upper manual hole in the vacuum pedal is slightly tapered but larger at 1/2". This is coming back to me, I drilled the hole straight and sleeved it to be able to fit a 3/8" bolt through it. For this picture I set the pedal pivot point to the same height across from one another. This better shows the location of the pins & holes.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[TakeAwayTheFear]

So I do have to drill my pm peddle for the manual conversion? And I got the pm out and got the manual set in place. The front hard line is to large to fit in the port :/ what's the best easiest way to fix that ? Both ports are the same size as the rear on the pm 1/2"?

Sorry I'm a brake newbie

 

[malibudave1978]

The best and easiest way to make sure you have the pushrod in the correct location on the brake pedal arm is to pull the brake pedal assembly out from under the dash and mock up your manual brake plate on the brake pedal assembly once it is removed from the car.

To remove the brake pedal assembly, unbolt the four nuts/bolts on the firewall that is holding the manual brake adapter plate and one 13mm bolt that is attaches the brake pedal assembly to under dash bracing. It is located strait up from the floor of the car looking up under the dash, strait up toward the top of the dash. It is usually blue in color.

Off the car, bolt your manual brake adapter plate back onto the brake pedal assembly and then bolt your master cylinder to the manual brake adapter plate.

Lay the brake pedal assembly with the manual brake adapter plate and master cylinder on its side with the brake pedal in the unpressed position against the brake light switch.

Take your pushrod assembly and insert the pushrod into the back of the master cylinder. With the pushrod coming strait out the back of the master cylinder, making sure that the pushrod does not angle up or down coming out the back of the master cylinder, mark where the centerline of the pushrod intersects the brake pedal.

If the pushrod intersects where the PM stud is located then use the PM stud for the brake pedal pushrod assembly. If not, drill the appropriate sized holed in the center of the side of the brake pedal arm where the centerline of the brake pedal pushrod intersects.

Measure multiply times before you drill to make sure the hole is in the correct location on the brake pedal arm.

For the brake line, you should be able to find an adapter that will work. I am not entirely sure what master cylinder you are using, but your front brake line (plumbed to the rear brakes) is, somebody correct me if I am wrong, 9/16-18 and your rear brake line (used for the front brakes) is a 1/2-20. If your front outlet on the master cylinder is also a 1/2-20...

Use either Edelmann part number 258306 - Hydraulic Brake Fittings, Adapter-Standard to Dual Master Cylinder, 3/16" (9/16-18 thread) Female Inv. Fl. Seat, 3/16" (1/2-20 thread) Male Inv. Fl. Tube

OR

Edelmann part number 258306 Hydraulic Brake Fittings, Adapter-Standard to Dual Master Cylinder, 3/16" (1/2-20 thread) Female Inv. Fl. Seat, 3/16" (9/16-18 thread) Male Inv. Fl. Tube

depending on which end is which.

 

[TakeAwayTheFear]

The best and easiest way to make sure you have the pushrod in the correct location on the brake pedal arm is to pull the brake pedal assembly out from under the dash and mock up your manual brake plate on the brake pedal assembly once it is removed from the car.

To remove the brake pedal assembly, unbolt the four nuts/bolts on the firewall that is holding the manual brake adapter plate and one 13mm bolt that is attaches the brake pedal assembly to under dash bracing. It is located strait up from the floor of the car looking up under the dash, strait up toward the top of the dash. It is usually blue in color.

Off the car, bolt your manual brake adapter plate back onto the brake pedal assembly and then bolt your master cylinder to the manual brake adapter plate.

Lay the brake pedal assembly with the manual brake adapter plate and master cylinder on its side with the brake pedal in the unpressed position against the brake light switch.

Take your pushrod assembly and insert the pushrod into the back of the master cylinder. With the pushrod coming strait out the back of the master cylinder, making sure that the pushrod does not angle up or down coming out the back of the master cylinder, mark where the centerline of the pushrod intersects the brake pedal.

If the pushrod intersects where the PM stud is located then use the PM stud for the brake pedal pushrod assembly. If not, drill the appropriate sized holed in the center of the side of the brake pedal arm where the centerline of the brake pedal pushrod intersects.

Measure multiply times before you drill to make sure the hole is in the correct location on the brake pedal arm.

For the brake line, you should be able to find an adapter that will work. I am not entirely sure what master cylinder you are using, but your front brake line (plumbed to the rear brakes) is, somebody correct me if I am wrong, 9/16-18 and your rear brake line (used for the front brakes) is a 1/2-20. If your front outlet on the master cylinder is also a 1/2-20...

Use either Edelmann part number 258306 - Hydraulic Brake Fittings, Adapter-Standard to Dual Master Cylinder, 3/16" (9/16-18 thread) Female Inv. Fl. Seat, 3/16" (1/2-20 thread) Male Inv. Fl. Tube

OR

Edelmann part number 258306 Hydraulic Brake Fittings, Adapter-Standard to Dual Master Cylinder, 3/16" (1/2-20 thread) Female Inv. Fl. Seat, 3/16" (9/16-18 thread) Male Inv. Fl. Tube

depending on which end is which.

great info!! thanks!

 

[chris kirk]

its not going to work using the original PowerMaster pedal on vacuum , the PM pin is in the wrong spot and its a larger diameter pin than used on vacuum boosters, the vac rod wont slide on no way no how

am i to assume from your sig
"David Schultz
MalibuDave
www.manualbrakes.com
that you are a brake dealer or just a supporter ?

if you are a dealer and not a paying board sponsor you should remove that from your signature

Pacecarta, I currently have vacuum brakes. I had to move my brake pedal for them to work. Like you said in this post. Now I'm going to a hydroboost application. Do I have to move my brake pedal back to the stock location (when I had the power master) or will it stay in the location were it is with the vacuum brakes? My apologies for cutting into this thread.