Complete engine build #2 (stock)

I am using FEL-PRO 9441'S Do they need any coating before install? I installed head studs on the same set up as yours, what should final torque be when using lubriplate assembly lube on both sides of the washers and under the nuts. I purchased a new front cover with new pump from Johns performace in Wa. It came with no oil plate on the end of the pump, suggestions as to best plate to use when closing it up? Where to get the oil pump pickup seal (to the block), no one seems to have them? Also which valley seal is best to use Thanks in advance!

The gaskets dont need any coating. Torque is debatable. 85 max, 65 minimum is what seems to be acceptable. No idea about the front case. Do some searching on here or call Cottons as well as for the intake gasket. HTH.
 
I wished i would have seen this before you installed the front cover, i would have went with a better timing chain and ditched the tensioner.

No reason to run the tensioner if your running a qualitly timing chain... which one are you using?

Stock rod bolts are fine just as turbofabricator said.

Interested in seeing whats going to happen with the arp main bolts and stock caps with no line bore... Ive always just reused the bolts unless doing a girdle.

BW
 
I am using FEL-PRO 9441'S Do they need any coating before install? I installed head studs on the same set up as yours, what should final torque be when using lubriplate assembly lube on both sides of the washers and under the nuts. I purchased a new front cover with new pump from Johns performace in Wa. It came with no oil plate on the end of the pump, suggestions as to best plate to use when closing it up? Where to get the oil pump pickup seal (to the block), no one seems to have them? Also which valley seal is best to use Thanks in advance!


Probably 75lbs, use a sealer on the threads going into the block, insert the stud 3 times fully into the block so the sealant is mashed in the threads really good.

Once you get the motor running, you will need to retorque the head bolts / studs..

Felpro intake gasket from advanced auto
 
I wished i would have seen this before you installed the front cover, i would have went with a better timing chain and ditched the tensioner.

No reason to run the tensioner if your running a qualitly timing chain... which one are you using?

Stock rod bolts are fine just as turbofabricator said.

Interested in seeing whats going to happen with the arp main bolts and stock caps with no line bore... Ive always just reused the bolts unless doing a girdle.

BW

The timing chain i used was Napa PN:20-3018. It looked alot better quality than stock. I was thinking the same thing with the tensioner. The chain went on pretty tight. As tight as my double roller on the other motor w/o the tensioner but i figured it cant hurn to put it on. Its a brand new tensioner as well. Rod bolts are all in, although i ordered new OEM style ones. Like i said the crank spun nice and free with the studs. We'll see but i really dont think its going to be a problem.
 
Got my valve trane together. Started by soaking all the lifters in laquer thinner for about a day or so. Then i transfered them to an oil tub for about another day. Although they were already in the car and charged up with oil, i like to clean everything and re-lube. I did replace 1 lifter as it had some small chips off of the edges on the flat part about the size of a pin head. (2 or 3) Better safe than sorry. After soaking in oil i transfered them into the lifter bores making sure they were free of debris. I cleaned all the pushrods using laquer thinner and a scotch pad and also blew through them with compressed air after running laquer thinner through them making sure there was nothing clogging the oils path through the pushrod. I cleaned the rockers and rocker shaft with laquer thinner as well in a 5 gallon bucket and a tooth brush. After all was clean, i installed the rockers on the pedestal and installed the 3 bolts. Tightening the bolts equally so the shaft would seat level and properly, i worked my way down untill they bottomed out. I then torqued to 25 ft/lbs as required. Its amazing how much easier it was to do this than my scorpian rollers on the other build setting the lash and all that!!!

I also got my crank pully installed. Unlike the BHJ balancer, the stocker is not a pressed fit and slided on quite nicely. Torque balancer bolt to 214 ft/lbs as required. To do this i use a high tech tool called a 2x4 wraped in rags and place it against one of the crankshaft counterweights and the pan rail to prevent rotation of the motor while torqueing the balancer bolt. Enjoy!!
 

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Sorry its been so long but ive been really busy. I assembles most of the intake and put it on the motor. Also got the valve covers on.

The instructions say not to use any silicon on the rubber intake gasket but i like to use it anyway to make sure it doesnt leak. You especially want to get some silicon in the corner where the heads meet the block. I took a pic before and after silicon was applied in the corners. Torque intake to 32ft lbs in the proper sequence working your way from the middle out in small increments. Installing the valve covers is pretty much self explainetory. Lightly coat the cork gasket with silicon on both sides. I also sprayed the intake gasket where it meets the head on both sides with Hi-Tak gasket spray for some added sealing. Oh yea i use The Right Stuff gasket silicon.

I also installed the pass. header. I like to put some anti sieze on the bolts so that when the headers crack and develop leaks (they always do) they will be removed easily without breaking. ENJOY!!!!
 

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Did you use any of "The right Stuff" around the water jackets?

On the intake gaskets? No i did not. I didnt use anythign but the spray. I dont think your supposed to use it there. I didnt on the other motor and i have no leaks.
 
Ok cool just checking. To my understanding silicone is used around the H20 jackets but if you're having zero issues go with it.
 
The only new thing i did was put the other header on. Its pretty much all done. The only thing i have left to do is put the throttle body together and prime it then put it in. Its going to be a while. I need to clean the frame rails down and paint thoes up, and make all new brake lines, do all the body bushings, and a few other little things. I'll be updating.
 
87we410877 engine build

Thanks for the pictures on your rebuild! I've enjoyed the follow up. I hope to see a picture of your car boiling them Mickey T's.
 
Where is Rocky point. Live in Westchester Ny. 30 north of gw, bridge.
THanks.Could use a phone number
 

looks good. how many hours did it take you to disassemble and reassemble the entire motor. i should have mine complete and in the car this weekend;) .i dont have any pics but if you want to see it im aound the corner in selden.
 
Do you have a working machinest? Have a friend near you. We keep messin and missing with tme................rob Westchester NY. Porchester NY...anyone??
 
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