Cold air intake piping and cone

nothingman

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Soon as I get done re-installing the carb and turbo on my 83 t-type I was thinking about a cone style intake... I've been searching for hours but can't find anything. Can anyone point me in the right direction of some cold air intake piping and cone that would attach to the stock piece that fits over the carb?
 
Maybe helpful:


THERMOSTATIC AIR CLEANER (THERMAC) - The air cleaner is design to provide an incoming air temperature of about 115 degrees (F). A temperature sensor is in the carburetor elbow and is used to control a vacuum actuated damper door in the snorkel of the air box. This door on the snorkel blends incoming air with air heated by the right side exhaust manifold, via a very narrow duct. This improves winter weather driveability. Warmer climate and summer only driven vehicles can do without thus system. During WOT acceleration, the (carburetor) vacuum drops to zero and the door will slowly open to allow unblended air through the snorkel alone. There is an inline delay valve which could be remove for quicker opening of the damper door.

AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY - The stock air cleaner assembly is very restrictive. While replacing the filter with an OEM style K&N will help, the real problem is the air box. The snorkel opening is tiny. Replacing the air box assembly with a K&N cone type filter will remove this restriction. The trade off is the loss of the Thermac system. To keep the K&N cone away from the engine's heat, place it between the fan shroud and inner fender. Then use some flexible duct to pull fresh air from behind the grille (or under the bumper), through the opening behind the headlights and to the cone. Remember to plug the Thermac's vacuum source. Hot Rod magazine (6/81) reported a 0.13 sec decrease in quarter mile times by just removing the AC duct (breathing warm, underhood air) on an '81 TR. The K&N cone should provide similar results.
 
Will that carb hat/elbow fit between the a Q-jet and the hood of a Regal? I beleve the stock elbow may be very retricitive, but I haven't had a chance to confirm.

got me on that one Rich, I havent a clue.... but it looks like it would possibly fit. It is slightly taller then the stocker.
 
Kind of what I was thinking about but that hat is to tall.:( Another reason I dropped the front crossmember and am making my own motor mounts.;) I've seen a hat made out of a tea pot (blow through) and if you can find one made out of aluminum and it fits on the carb, then you should be able to make a inlet and add the hose to where you want to go.
 
I added abot an 1.5 to 2 inch rise on my hat and opened up the snouy bt cutting it back and the inlet larger . It helped but finally cuy a hole in the back of the scoop and got an open elemant air filter. In my findings ithelps to raise the hat to unshroud the top of the carb
 
The elbow on the 81/83 is worse than the earlier elbows because they need to clear the electronics (like the MC Solenoid). Using a 3/4" spacer should let you run the 78/80 elbow on the 81/83 carb. That may help a small bit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8092/

I've kept my eyes open for a low profile hat with a 4" oval opening. I sometimes see things that might work, but they are too expensive to buy without knowing if they will work or not.
 
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