Charging Problem

diomedes

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Ok, Im giving up and posting my problem, I have tried really hard to resolve this one myself.

My car died Saturday, I knew it was electrical so I do yanked out the alternator and took it to Autozone to get tested. It passed so that had me baffled for a bit until I did some research and find my "Volt" light was not working. Replaced it with a new one and now it shines like new.

Now I take my car back to autozone to check up the charging system and found the car running at 14 volts with a max of 27amps :eek:

27amps??? The alternator "passed" but how reliable is that system? When I asked the store manager he said its always been on point.

So where do I go from here?
 
I'm not so sure you have a problem....? The alt is probably charging pretty hard to get the battery back up, and these cars pull ALOT of amps in normal operation. The idiot who owned my car before me had to install EVERY gage you could ever think of, one of which was an ammeter :eek: , and it got so damn hot it burnt my finger when I touched the gage face, so I know a ton of current was passing thru that thing. Needless to say, I removed it immediately after that discovery. You don't have one of those volt boosters or alt. full-field devices do you???
 
No, not that Im aware of thus far.
My concern was when we measured the amps going back to the battery its high was 27amps and at idle was only 10amps.
I could be wrong but I thought it should be hitting around 60amps idling and somewhere in the 110amp range when under load?
 
No, not that Im aware of thus far.
My concern was when we measured the amps going back to the battery its high was 27amps and at idle was only 10amps.
I could be wrong but I thought it should be hitting around 60amps idling and somewhere in the 110amp range when under load?

there are several factors that determine the voltage and current output of an alternator assuming it is in good condition to begin with----------engine speed, temperature, battery condition and temperature, and accessory load are some of them---------if your alternator is able to maintain an output voltage in the 13 to 14 range under most any conditions it is working fine-------its primary regulation condition is to maintain a constant output voltage---------the current will be relative to the wattage determined by the cars accessories-------if the voltage is constant in the 13 to 14 range that automatically means that the current is adequate--------if the amperage were not aequate it results in a drop in voltage---------thats how constant voltage systems work--------i don't know what is in your car but there is no normal set of conditions in a stock TR that will require more than about 100 amps---------engine running and every single electrical accessory in the car on at the same time will not present a problem for the stock alternator if it is in good shape and if it is maintaining at least 13 volts it is just fine so stop worrying.......................RC
 
if the voltage is constant in the 13 to 14 range that automatically means that the current is adequate--------if the amperage were not aequate it results in a drop in voltage---------thats how constant voltage systems work--------

That was the key to my ignorance, I appreciate the response. I currently (no pun intended :eek: ) do not have a GPS locator on the car so the thought of getting stranded cruising around and having to leave the car on the side of the road gives me the hibby jibbies.
 
No, not that Im aware of thus far.
My concern was when we measured the amps going back to the battery its high was 27amps and at idle was only 10amps.
I could be wrong but I thought it should be hitting around 60amps idling and somewhere in the 110amp range when under load?

Ahhhhh.... I thought you were concerned that 27 amps was too HIGH!!.. No, 27amps revved up in neutral, down to 10ish idling sounds just fine. Sleep well.... :smile:
 
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