Changing head gaskets

nitrousmike175

New Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2002
I have blown a head gasket and was wondering how hard they are to replace. It doesn't look all that bad, but is there any areas that might give me problems. Thanks for the help.

Mike
 
Sucks to change on these cars. You could pull the engine or undo motormounts/tranny mounts and pull engine forward. GNTTYPE has info for you!!
 
If you do not have head studs then changing in the vehicle is not all that bad. There are 2 bolts on the back of the passenger head that have ground wires going to them. These are pretty tough. Once you remove the turbo and the bracket and then the alternator and its brackets it is easy. I place the car on stands and remove the fron wheels. Makes it easy to get to the exhaust manifold bolts. You can remove the intake with most items attached. Takes some finegalling but can be done. Helps when you have two sets of hands though. Remmember new head bolts gaskets and sealer for the head bolts as they do enter into the water jackets. reassemble and torque properly. If you had them dump into the oil pan, make darn sure it is clean and dry in there. Also inspect the cam since you have the intake off.
 
Originally posted by TClassic
nitrousmike175,

NOW, you know why no one uses Nitrous on these cars!!!:)
The nitrous was on my 96 Ram Air not on this car. The name has always stuck with me.:)
 
Originally posted by machinegun
If you do not have head studs then changing in the vehicle is not all that bad. There are 2 bolts on the back of the passenger head that have ground wires going to them. These are pretty tough. Once you remove the turbo and the bracket and then the alternator and its brackets it is easy. I place the car on stands and remove the fron wheels. Makes it easy to get to the exhaust manifold bolts. You can remove the intake with most items attached. Takes some finegalling but can be done. Helps when you have two sets of hands though. Remmember new head bolts gaskets and sealer for the head bolts as they do enter into the water jackets. reassemble and torque properly. If you had them dump into the oil pan, make darn sure it is clean and dry in there. Also inspect the cam since you have the intake off.

Thanks for the info. The part about removing the tires is a big help. All in all it doesn't sound like a hard repair.
 
I divide the job into parts.

Disconnect bat...drain radiator...drain oil and leave catch can under pan with plug out.

Remove the wiring....don't worry about where it goes back (unless you've changed some connectors) as it'll just fall back into place, kinda, and the connectors only go to their intended sender.

Top of engine....as someone said...remove the complete manifold and all it's crap in one piece. I ALWAYS put bolts back where they come out of....and tape the threads if necessary to keep them in their correct holes.

Front of engine. Ditto on bolts and the AC compressor you just tie-tape over to the side without disconnecting the lines. (This is assuming it's the driver's side gasket). If it ain't, leave this stuff on and disconnect the turbo garbage. I leave the turbo on the manifold and just let it dangle against the fender.

Depending on the side remove that ex. manifold and you now have the head (s) left.

While I remove the wires at the back of the pass side head AFTER the head is loose I put a small piece of plywood under the head to protect it and the block.

Clean the deck and all the gasket crap. I pour a quart or 2 of oil down the valley to wash any bits of gaga left in there. You will get water into the pan when you remove the heads so the cleanser oil will help wash it out.

Clean, clean, clean. I use alcohol to clean all the gasket surfaces as a final cleanser. Head gaskets go on dry...I still think the stockers are the best for stock engines but they may be discontinued. Don't reuse the stock head bolts if they were stock. Get ARP and put the white sealant and the lube on them. Torque to spec in the proper order. I start in the middle and work out, oppositely. And in 10 lb increments. Each person has their own opinion regarding the correct amount of torque...I've used 70, 75 and 80. Take your pick...lol.

When you put the intake gasket on, again, I like stock.. put a small dab of whatever color RTV you're using into each corner of the rubber pieces where they touch the heads. I also smear a thin layer of the RTV onto the intake gasket sealing surfaces.

Bolt everything back on.

It used to take me about 8 hours....3 to take everything off and 5 to put it back on. But that was when I use to drink so it was probably a one hour job in reality. :D
 
A couple of tips:

If you are doing just one gasket......consider doing both. The other one is ready to go!! Ask me how I know

1.Once you have the exh manifolds off, pull the block drains on either side of the block before you pull the intake and heads off.

2. Drain and pull your oil pan. If you are using the stock composite headgasket (and I highly recommend you do) you will have graphite particles throughout the engine. With the oil pan off, you can clean the valley area real good with brake clean and get all the crap out of the oil pan. Plus you can take a peak at a bearing or two the make sure everything else is ok.

If you don't clean out the junk, you'll have bearing problems later.

3. Check your heads (or have them checked) for flatness. I like to have the heads resurfaced just enough to clean them up and I ask my machist to leave a rough finish (to grab the gasket).

Good Luck!
Dave
 
6 Hours

Took 6 hours to do two head gaskets in the front of the Holiday Inn. We were at Bristol, Tn at the BOP Event. Ed (ULYCYC) blew a head gasket on a 30 PSI launch. Take your time.
Artie

* Got pictures it was like a tech session with all the Buick / Olds and Pontiac guys staying at the hotel.
 
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