changing Body Bushings

87BuickMan

New Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2006
So my Energy Suspension Poly body bushings yesterday, and started on them this morning. First I had to take the nose apart as I removed the whole front clip together when I pulled the engine. Man there is a lot of bolts that hold the fenders to the nose:eek: . So then I put the header pannel and nose on the car with the new bushings, never marked where the old shims went that were under the old bushings, just tossed them all together :mad:. So I just left them loose and will deal with that when I put the fenders on. So loosned all the body bushing bolts on the car, and man I got to tell ya, either the car has to go up off the body about a foot or you have to have 3 hands to change some of those bushings. Loosning the bolts is as far as I got today as I have to leave for work in a few:( . Anyone have any tips or tricks they want to share with me to make the project a tad easier tomorrow morning?
 
body mounts

take the rear bumper off also.

take out the body bolts from one side, loosen only the other side, then jack up the side the bolts are removed from about 4 to 6 inches slowly and carefully, that will allow the room to change all on one side, you may notice rusty and enlaged holes in the frame, seems like a vender sells new sections to weld in or just lay on the frame. Watch the rear most section, tends to move a little and alignment back may be needed. Remember not to tighten until other side is done. Just take your time and be carefull when reaching between the frame and body. That is all I can remember at this time.


Thanks
Bill
 
Luckly there isn't any rust on my frame and all holes are as they should be. Also I had the pass side all loostned up, and had the drivers side of the body about 7-8" off the frame and couldn't get my hands in to take the old bushings out, especially the bushings just infront of the lower control mounts. I may just use 2 jacks and lift the whole body evenly up off the frame. Are there alighnment holes in the frame and body like there are on F bodies for realigning?
 
take the rear bumper off also.take out the body bolts from one side, loosen only the other side, then jack up the side the bolts are removed from about 4 to 6 inches slowly and carefully, that will allow the room to change all on one side, you may notice rusty and enlaged holes in the frame, seems like a vender sells new sections to weld in or just lay on the frame. Watch the rear most section, tends to move a little and alignment back may be needed. Remember not to tighten until other side is done. Just take your time and be carefull when reaching between the frame and body. That is all I can remember at this time.ThanksBill
X2There are no allignment holes or pins on a G body. Make sure if you lift the whole body at once that you are VERY careful!! There are alot of things that are still attached!! ie: 3 fuel lines infront of the fuel tank, brake line in the same area, various ground wires in the engine compartment, the steering linkage (steering column), shifter linkage, brake lines at the master cylinder, E-brake cable that runs through the drivers side frame rail...among other things that I can't remember right now. NOT ALL of these things have 4-6 inches of slack in them! So you might want to take Bill's advise and only do one side at a time. I used energy suspension poly bushings in my GN as well. I know I had to shim the core support at least a half inch on both sides to make the fenders fit the doors!! Seemed to me, they coulda been a little thicker. HTH ---Keith
 
Update, i removed the rear bumper, and things went much easier. I have the drivers side changed, now just gotta do the pass side. Not the easiest project i've done.
 
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