change of plans

[davef]

I have decided not to make my 95% original 87 GN a race car.:biggrin: What I want to do instead is make it the ultimate sleeper. I want to make the car run strong and ride smooth. I am less concerned with power ( although I will be installing 42lb injectors, 3"DP and a TT chip.) There is a possibility that I will change the Turbo to a TA49.

What would be considered to be the best suspension combo to accomplish my goal. I would also be interested in hearing opinions on exhaust options that will keep the drone to a minimum.

 

[jdpolzin]

I have decided not to make my 95% original 87 GN a race car.:biggrin: What I want to do instead is make it the ultimate sleeper. I want to make the car run strong and ride smooth. I am less concerned with power ( although I will be installing 42lb injectors, 3"DP and a TT chip.) There is a possibility that I will change the Turbo to a TA49.

What would be considered to be the best suspension combo to accomplish my goal. I would also be interested in hearing opinions on exhaust options that will keep the drone to a minimum.

Just leave the suspension stock. Are you wanting straight line performance or make it handle around curves? Are you wanting it low or as close to stock as possible?

When you say sleeper, Im thinking you are looking at stock ride height, stock wheels, etc.

 

[turbopete]

What I did

A GN can only be so much of a sleeper. The reputation is there already.

For the suspension, I replaced the rear springs with the Kirban ones. Bilstein shocks.

For the exhaust, I put a stock location crossflow muffler in place. It is a tight fit and cost a bit for the custom pipe bending. I believe the number is a 17276 Dynomax. I did put on a replacement 2.5 cat-back system. Sounds like a V-8, with no drone.

I had a 49 turbo initially, but will be trading up to a 5857, billet wheel, dual ball bearing to match the restalled D5 converter. The 49 is old school, but many have gone fast with it.

Do some reading about the benefits of the 3" downpipe with your combo. A ported elbow will most likely make more of a difference than the downpipe. I will be replacing my stock downpipe with an old ATR 2.5", as it makes more sense with my current combo.

 

[davef]

Just leave the suspension stock. Are you wanting straight line performance or make it handle around curves? Are you wanting it low or as close to stock as possible?

When you say sleeper, Im thinking you are looking at stock ride height, stock wheels, etc.

I'm concerned about "on road" handling (curves, traffic, hills, etc). Straight line performance is only a secondary issue.

By "sleeper" I am referring to mostly stock height. Maybe raise the rear a bit. I have stock wheels now. I am thinking about putting some centerline rims with perhaps a 295/60 M/Ts on the rear and 235/70's on the front. I am an amateur at this as you can tell.

I want the car to gain respect on the road from those that know about GN's.:biggrin: I want to earn the respect from those that don't.

 

[jdpolzin]

I'm concerned about "on road" handling (curves, traffic, hills, etc). Straight line performance is only a secondary issue.

By "sleeper" I am referring to mostly stock height. Maybe raise the rear a bit. I have stock wheels now. I am thinking about putting some centerline rims with perhaps a 295/60 M/Ts on the rear and 235/70's on the front. I am an amateur at this as you can tell.

I want the car to gain respect on the road from those that know about GN's.:biggrin: I want to earn the respect from those that don't.

Well post a few pictures of your car as it sits now. Those tire sizes will be huge on the car. I dont think youd want to go with that tire in the front. As far as trying to make it handle, jacking it up in the air isnt the answer. I would g with a set of 5658 fron springs, leave the stockers in the rear. Get a set of Bilstein shocks. Buy a set of 255/60's for the rear and leave the stock front tires on it. Start with that and see how you like it.

If you like that set up, start replacing old bushings with Moog replacements. Get a Good set of rear lower control arms, I like the Hotchkis or Metco lowers.

 

[davef]

Gettin' Closer

Well post a few pictures of your car as it sits now. Those tire sizes will be huge on the car. I dont think youd want to go with that tire in the front. As far as trying to make it handle, jacking it up in the air isnt the answer. I would g with a set of 5658 fron springs, leave the stockers in the rear. Get a set of Bilstein shocks. Buy a set of 255/60's for the rear and leave the stock front tires on it. Start with that and see how you like it.

If you like that set up, start replacing old bushings with Moog replacements. Get a Good set of rear lower control arms, I like the Hotchkis or Metco lowers.

You have a few good points here. :smile: I see what you mean about the tire sizes. Regarding the suspension, I am leaning towards the Edelbrock GM A/G BODY PRO-TOURING KIT. Anyone tried these? How did it change the ride from the "cushy" stock suspension? The more I read and drive, the more I think firming up the handling is more to my liking. Now, if I can get on the right track as to how to accomplish this, I should be fine.

I know that there are experts out there that have suggested to others that they should replace their suspension components a few at a time in order to save money. I don't want to sound like I'm rich here; but I would rather spend the money one time and get it right. I am a firm believer in the ole "you get what you pay for" rule. As so many others have stated, "owning a GN is an expensive hobby"

 

[T-CHRGD]

The Pro Touring kit will lower the car noticably. If you want to keep the stock height, you won't need the whole kit. jdpolzin has it right. Keep the stock springs, Bilstein shocks, and good (Metco or HRPartsNStuff) rear lower control arms. And maybe the HRParts rear swaybar. :biggrin:

 

[jdpolzin]

You have a few good points here. :smile: I see what you mean about the tire sizes. Regarding the suspension, I am leaning towards the Edelbrock GM A/G BODY PRO-TOURING KIT. Anyone tried these? How did it change the ride from the "cushy" stock suspension? The more I read and drive, the more I think firming up the handling is more to my liking. Now, if I can get on the right track as to how to accomplish this, I should be fine.

I know that there are experts out there that have suggested to others that they should replace their suspension components a few at a time in order to save money. I don't want to sound like I'm rich here; but I would rather spend the money one time and get it right. I am a firm believer in the ole "you get what you pay for" rule. As so many others have stated, "owning a GN is an expensive hobby"

I agree in the "You get what you paid for" deal but you also have to realize you are paying for a commercialized product with the Edelbrock kit. There are far more superior components out there than those kits. I'm not a fan of them at all. You dont seem like you are really wanting to drop the car a whole bunch so start with small changes and work at it piece by piece. if you dont mind dropping the car, I could give you a list for a complete set up that'll get you right where you want to be instead of dumping your money on that kit. If you were to go out and just buy a commercialized kit, i'd go with Hotchkis over any of the others.

 

[T-CHRGD]

I agree in the "You get what you paid for" deal but you also have to realize you are paying for a commercialized product with the Edelbrock kit. There are far more superior components out there than those kits. I'm not a fan of them at all. You dont seem like you are really wanting to drop the car a whole bunch so start with small changes and work at it piece by piece. if you dont mind dropping the car, I could give you a list for a complete set up that'll get you right where you want to be instead of dumping your money on that kit. If you were to go out and just buy a commercialized kit, i'd go with Hotchkis over any of the others.

X2

But I would put Hotchkis right there with Edelbrock. Quality products, but they spend a Ton of money on advertising to every average Joe (with a Monte SS ??) I would look First at the TurboBuick supporting vendors. :biggrin:

 

[davef]

I agree in the "You get what you paid for" deal but you also have to realize you are paying for a commercialized product with the Edelbrock kit. There are far more superior components out there than those kits. I'm not a fan of them at all. You dont seem like you are really wanting to drop the car a whole bunch so start with small changes and work at it piece by piece. if you dont mind dropping the car, I could give you a list for a complete set up that'll get you right where you want to be instead of dumping your money on that kit. If you were to go out and just buy a commercialized kit, i'd go with Hotchkis over any of the others.

You're right. I don't want to drop the car at all if I can help it. I like the fact that it sits a bit higher. I want a nice firm ride on the street (cornering, very responsive steering in traffic, etc) that won't beat my kidneys into submission:biggrin: if I am on an other than super smooth highway. If you have suggestions I would love to hear em.

 

[The_Six]

You may find that just replacing everything like bushings, ball joints, steering linkage, jeep steering shaft new shocks that you may be happy with it. My front end bushings were so wore out I’m supersized the car when down the road straight. I wanted the same thing as you so I am replacing everything and used Gabriel shocks nothing fancy my engine isn’t back in yet but will be soon I want to see how it handles with everything new before I go changing stuff. The only thing I changed was the upper front a-arms got a set of the speed way arms donated to me and it’s not much more expensive to go to tubular nonadjustable then it would be to replace the bushings that and I like the idea that my down pipe will not melt the new bushing out. I also will be going with the blazer brake up grade. If I don’t like the way it handles after this then I will add the lower MOG springs and go to Bilstein shocks and bigger sway bars.
You may also want to add the braces like the trunk brace and the front and braces to before you mod stuff they make a big difference in the way the car handles in the curves.

 

[jdpolzin]

You may find that just replacing everything like bushings, ball joints, steering linkage, jeep steering shaft new shocks that you may be happy with it. My front end bushings were so wore out I’m supersized the car when down the road straight. I wanted the same thing as you so I am replacing everything and used Gabriel shocks nothing fancy my engine isn’t back in yet but will be soon I want to see how it handles with everything new before I go changing stuff. The only thing I changed was the upper front a-arms got a set of the speed way arms donated to me and it’s not much more expensive to go to tubular nonadjustable then it would be to replace the bushings that and I like the idea that my down pipe will not melt the new bushing out. I also will be going with the blazer brake up grade. If I don’t like the way it handles after this then I will add the lower MOG springs and go to Bilstein shocks and bigger sway bars.
You may also want to add the braces like the trunk brace and the front and braces to before you mod stuff they make a big difference in the way the car handles in the curves.

Thats good advice!

 

[davef]

Thats good advice!

Sounds like a consensus! :biggrin: I am not a mechanic. Since obviously I will save money by only buying the neccessities, I will apply the savings to a good mechanic to install everything.

Can you give me a shopping list of parts and I'll have them installed?

 

[The_Six]

This is all stuff you can do your self rather easy you may want to give it a shot before you pay some one. To make it easiy on you I would try to get most of it from one place got my parts from Brian at g-body and auto zone here is a good list to start with.

GBodyParts.com Tubular Upper A-Arms with ball joints $170 you can get a simalar set of these about $30 dollers cheaper from speedway I have a set on my car seam to be ok just no customer support if needed. GBodyParts.com Online

Spohn Precision Front End Rebuild Kit - 1978-1987 GM G-Body with lower ball joints $258 GBodyParts.com Online


For Braces start with rear seat frame brace and add others later as you go.

Rear Seat Frame Brace Kit $76 GBodyParts.com Online

Connecting Front Brace $65 GBodyParts.com Online

Front Frame Braces $50 GBodyParts.com Online

This last stuff you need but can get it at auto zone
Energy-Suspension / Control Arm Bushing - Front lower $40 Part Number: 3.3171R AutoZone.com | | Control Arm Bushing - Front | CONTROL ARM BUSHING
Gabriel Ultra / Shock/Strut - Front $ 23 each Part Number: 69600 AutoZone.com | | Shock/Strut - Front | ULTRA SHOCK

Next thing I would do is the jeep steering shaft upgrade have to get ebay or salvage yard for this one. here is a good place to read on it. I got mine for $15 shipt on ebay. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...270748-steering-shaft-intermediate-shaft.html

And the last thing to think about is brakes I think the best bang for buck upgrade is the blazer brake upgrade only $150 for every thing at the salvage yards here if they have them problem is most dont but you may get lucky. check it out here http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/171079-11-bolt-brakes.html

Now the good thing is if you do every thing on this list and your not happy the only money your out is the shocks so $50 at most and you can probly sell those to some one for $25 so in reality you may loose $25 by doing this first.
Some guys will say the tubler a-arms are not the way to go not adjustable only thing they do is take a puond or 2 of the front of the car dont help improve the suspention any since not adjustable and if you want you can spend $200 or $300 more to get an adjustable set but for what you want I tihnk these will work just fine you dont need to work about suspention drop from drag racing your not looking for a full on road race set up and you will never have to replace that passenger side bushing from the down pipe heat melting it again.

 

[davef]

This is all stuff you can do your self rather easy you may want to give it a shot before you pay some one. To make it easiy on you I would try to get most of it from one place got my parts from Brian at g-body and auto zone here is a good list to start with.

GBodyParts.com Tubular Upper A-Arms with ball joints $170 you can get a simalar set of these about $30 dollers cheaper from speedway I have a set on my car seam to be ok just no customer support if needed. GBodyParts.com Online

Spohn Precision Front End Rebuild Kit - 1978-1987 GM G-Body with lower ball joints $258 GBodyParts.com Online


For Braces start with rear seat frame brace and add others later as you go.

Rear Seat Frame Brace Kit $76 GBodyParts.com Online

Connecting Front Brace $65 GBodyParts.com Online

Front Frame Braces $50 GBodyParts.com Online

This last stuff you need but can get it at auto zone
Energy-Suspension / Control Arm Bushing - Front lower $40 Part Number: 3.3171R AutoZone.com | | Control Arm Bushing - Front | CONTROL ARM BUSHING
Gabriel Ultra / Shock/Strut - Front $ 23 each Part Number: 69600 AutoZone.com | | Shock/Strut - Front | ULTRA SHOCK

Next thing I would do is the jeep steering shaft upgrade have to get ebay or salvage yard for this one. here is a good place to read on it. I got mine for $15 shipt on ebay. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...270748-steering-shaft-intermediate-shaft.html

And the last thing to think about is brakes I think the best bang for buck upgrade is the blazer brake upgrade only $150 for every thing at the salvage yards here if they have them problem is most dont but you may get lucky. check it out here http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/171079-11-bolt-brakes.html

Now the good thing is if you do every thing on this list and your not happy the only money your out is the shocks so $50 at most and you can probly sell those to some one for $25 so in reality you may loose $25 by doing this first.
Some guys will say the tubler a-arms are not the way to go not adjustable only thing they do is take a puond or 2 of the front of the car dont help improve the suspention any since not adjustable and if you want you can spend $200 or $300 more to get an adjustable set but for what you want I tihnk these will work just fine you dont need to work about suspention drop from drag racing your not looking for a full on road race set up and you will never have to replace that passenger side bushing from the down pipe heat melting it again.

Is there another option other than the Jeep steering shaft? Also, not sure hiw you determined that my only risk was the $50 Unless youare considering that I will need to replace all of the other components anyway.

 

[davef]

This is all stuff you can do your self rather easy you may want to give it a shot before you pay some one. To make it easiy on you I would try to get most of it from one place got my parts from Brian at g-body and auto zone here is a good list to start with.

GBodyParts.com Tubular Upper A-Arms with ball joints $170 you can get a simalar set of these about $30 dollers cheaper from speedway I have a set on my car seam to be ok just no customer support if needed. GBodyParts.com Online

Spohn Precision Front End Rebuild Kit - 1978-1987 GM G-Body with lower ball joints $258 GBodyParts.com Online


For Braces start with rear seat frame brace and add others later as you go.

Rear Seat Frame Brace Kit $76 GBodyParts.com Online

Connecting Front Brace $65 GBodyParts.com Online

Front Frame Braces $50 GBodyParts.com Online

This last stuff you need but can get it at auto zone
Energy-Suspension / Control Arm Bushing - Front lower $40 Part Number: 3.3171R AutoZone.com | | Control Arm Bushing - Front | CONTROL ARM BUSHING
Gabriel Ultra / Shock/Strut - Front $ 23 each Part Number: 69600 AutoZone.com | | Shock/Strut - Front | ULTRA SHOCK

Next thing I would do is the jeep steering shaft upgrade have to get ebay or salvage yard for this one. here is a good place to read on it. I got mine for $15 shipt on ebay. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...270748-steering-shaft-intermediate-shaft.html

And the last thing to think about is brakes I think the best bang for buck upgrade is the blazer brake upgrade only $150 for every thing at the salvage yards here if they have them problem is most dont but you may get lucky. check it out here http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/171079-11-bolt-brakes.html

Now the good thing is if you do every thing on this list and your not happy the only money your out is the shocks so $50 at most and you can probly sell those to some one for $25 so in reality you may loose $25 by doing this first.
Some guys will say the tubler a-arms are not the way to go not adjustable only thing they do is take a puond or 2 of the front of the car dont help improve the suspention any since not adjustable and if you want you can spend $200 or $300 more to get an adjustable set but for what you want I tihnk these will work just fine you dont need to work about suspention drop from drag racing your not looking for a full on road race set up and you will never have to replace that passenger side bushing from the down pipe heat melting it again.

Is there another option other than the Jeep steering shaft? Also, not sure how you determined that my only risk was the $50 Unless you are considering that I will need to replace all of the other components anyway.

 

[The_Six]

Unless you know for a fact those parts have been changed out some time in the life of the car then you probably need to replace them. Most likly the only thing to ever be changed out was the tierod ends and possably ball joints. If your passenger side uper arm bushing have never been replaced you can bet money it is gone the heat from the down pipe eats it up. Unless you have a car with super low miles and even then after 20 years the origanl ruber parts are not what they use to be.
The only other option for the steering is to replace the rag joints but it still will not perform half as good as the jeep convertion. I have the ujoint steering on all my cars and truck I normaly just make my own buying the flamming river parts and assembling it my self but expect to pay 200 for what you can get for 15 with the jeep parts.
As for the braces you definitly want the rear seat brace it will keep your paint from cracking around the side windows and makes a big diffrence in the turns when it comes to body roll the other braces are not as important but will help with the over all performance in the corners.

 

[jlat]

hello people; Lots of information here but is there a bolt on disk brake set up for the rears? from the junk yard that is.
thanks
IBBY

 

[The_Six]

you can get caddy calipers and grackets caddy calipers are like $100 brackets are around $50 then maybe $50 more for the rotors and $20 for brake lines . I will have to look in my notes ware to get the brackets.

 

[charlief1]

hello people; Lots of information here but is there a bolt on disk brake set up for the rears? from the junk yard that is.
thanks
IBBY

There is no junk yard parts that will directly bolt on. You can get weld on brackets for a dirt track axle set up that will use the calipers off a mid 80's Firebird with a parking brake.