CCCI testing/swapping

P

pdooley

Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
86 ttype..
Been working on my no-start all day and discovered no spark.
Checked the CCCI module harness- it's getting power, ground, crank and cam signals.
Coils are good.
I'm suspecting the CCCI.
Anybody know how to test them?
Anybody in the Tampa Bay area have a spare CCCI i can borrow to test?
 
Most of the auto parts chains can test.

I would keep posts together in one thread. Be easier to help diagnose.

You have to figure out the why the ce light is flickering. That usually means the chip is bad or bad chip connection.

Are you disconnecting the orange wire when removing the chip from the ecm?
 
sorry for the new threads, i thought that might be best since i discovered new info.
actually, the original problem, like you said, needs to be addressed.(flickering engine light)

and i didn't mention that my ECM connectors gave me issues before.
a couple years ago:
i sprayed the harness connectors with contact cleaner and the car ran good.
then i put dielectric grease in the connector plugs to seal out moisture. this was a mistake as the car barely ran.
so, more contact cleaner and the car wouldn't run at all. let it dry over night and she ran, but crappy.
so, i replaced all the terminals in harness connectors. found a thread here and ordered the proper terminals, crimped and soldered. It's been a while but i still think the car ran crappy.
then recently i've been trying to get her going and here i am. so the testing done today is pointless until the flickering light is solved. I'll have to read the TR service manual for wiring info.

Re. orange wire: not sure which orange wire, you mean at the fuse box?
 
Under the hood by the battery there is a orange wire with a black connector. That's ecm power. That suppose to be disconnected anytime the chip is removed from the ecm. If not the chip could be damaged.

RL
 
ok, found the orange wire under hood. it was in pretty bad shape, corroded.
repaired the bad section but the light still flickered.
tried a different chip and the light is solid now.
but car still won't start. timing light suggests still no spark.
i see in wiring diagrams that there is an EST bypass. i'm wondering if i should try this maybe for a limp home timing curve. maybe i'll get spark.
how do i switch to bypass mode?
 
I do not have 5v signal on the EST line from the ECM.
pulled the ECM and checked the board under a magnifying glass.
found some ceramic SMD resistors were cooked.
so the search for another ECM starts.
 
this problem is starting to wear me out.
ECM swap did no good. still no spark.
I picked up a CCCI unit from an 87 lesabre with the same blocky coil pack, but found out the connector plug is different.
does anyone have an interchange for ignition modules for the 86-87 cars? or can i use this lesabre module with some rewiring or a different plug?
 
That's going to be pined different. No good. I doubt that's it anyway. More than likely crank or cam sensor.

Verify you still have power on pins P and M of the module plug. If all is good plug it back in and grab a can of either. Give a shot into the throttle body and see if she responds.

RL
 
i have battery power at the module.

did some testing from a troubleshooting flowchart.
this advised to check power to the crank and cam sensors.
spec is between 6 and 9 volts. i have 5V.
at this point the flowchart suggests bad wire integrity or bad ign module.
wiring ohmed out fine, and it's a little strange if it was a wiring problem since both sensors are getting the exact same voltage reading, like 4.999V... they run separate wires to the ign module.
So, the flowchart says must be bad module.
except when i swapped the module, still no spark and still 5v on the sensor +feed lines.

BTW, the cam and crank sensors are functioning, but not within spec since their feed voltage is low to begin with.

I starting to think the problem is with the power wire into the CCCI, even though voltage shows good.
i have to test the voltage drop under load to really check the power feed.

any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Fixed.
Some times the simple things are the answer.
The coil pack was firing all along.
The secondary wasn't sparking due to carbon fouled plugs.
I cleaned the plugs early in the game by heating them with a propane torch and burning the carbon off, but enough was still on the insulating towers to make the spark jump.
New plugs solved it.

Good news is I upgraded to a type 2 ignition setup with the hotter Delco coils while chasing the problem.

I also have a couple extra t2 ignition modules and a t1 "wells" brand from the junkyard. And an extra ECM, and the 2 ECM connector pigtails.
I'm gonna return all the parts to the yard unless somebody wants them.
 
I also have a couple extra t2 ignition modules and a t1 "wells" brand from the junkyard. And an extra ECM, and the 2 ECM connector pigtails.


Do you still have the t2 ignition modules?
 
Under the hood by the battery there is a orange wire with a black connector.
bass.jpg

boa.jpg
 
It's great you posted the solution! Isn't it amazing what a new set of plugs will do sometimes? ;)
 
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