Casper Knock Gauge ?????

[GNVenom]

Actually it's exactly the way it's supposed to work. The chirp will be heard when you jump into the yellow zone, then if the detonation is a bit more, it'll be a tone. If you hit the red zone quickly, you'll hear a long tone. You can test this by turning the ignition key on, then rapping the base of the knock sensor. The audible module is designed to not bother you with the 'tickles' between shifts and only advises you when the detonation is moderate to severe.
Regards,
John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com

 

[turbov6joe]

10-4, thanks!

 

[GNVenom]

If you have both the audible module and the knock gage, you will hear a short chirp when the gage goes into the yellow, a longer chirp when it hits the top of the yellow/red, and a long tone when it hits the red. The idea is to lift the throttle when you hear a long tone, and stay in it when you hear the chirp. That way, you don't have to keep looking at the knock gage while driving at WOT.

-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com

Take advantage of the discount found on the home page. Click on the AUGUST calendar for more information. Ends last day of August.

 

[b4black]

Well, since I've been wanting one, the discount was enough to get me to buy. (If there was a silver on silver I'd buy another for my GN. )


When I hooked it up, a green LED stayed lite and the rest were very dim on start up. Thinking the dim-ness was from a bad ground, I connected the + and - directly to the battery and it worked perfectly. I hooked it back up in the car - same as before. Then I moved the power source from IGN 3 on the fuse box to IGN 1. Now it works perfectly.

Did I have a bad connection, or is there a difference between IGN 1 and IGN 3??? I wonder if this is other people's problem...

 

[salvageV6]

Rich maybe IGN3 is cooked?

Might want to try a voltmeter to a good ground on IGN1 and IGN3 terminals to see if they are the same.

I doubt it is a current issue since the KR gauge can't draw much current.

Interesting.....

 

[gnturbo]

well my prob is exact opposite of lights being on all the time mine hardly lights up at all even with a sustained 4-5 in 3rd gear it maybe triggers the first or second green light.Figured it would be a good heads up quick reeference light but I still end up watching the scanmaster because it does not light up much.Not that I want it to light up cuz I don't want knock but when I kick the recall on the SM and see that somewhere in the run I got a 5 and I never saw a led light up I start to wonder.the green light in the center stays lit like it is supposed to.

 

[Red Regal T]

After changing my radio out (blew the radio fuse a couple times), my Casper's knock gauge developed the problem of sticking on one of the warning lites on startup and then would not indicate knock. I tried hooking my hot wire into the radio fuse as suggested, but as soon as I got some knock, the gauge wouldn't reset and the lite continued to glow. I installed a switch in the ground wire and it's OK, but, everytime I have knock, the gauge sticks and I have to reset it with the toggle switch. Any suggestions for a repair?

 

[b4black]

How about trying some other ESC modules? - Since John says they are the cause.


Mine is now hanging up when first started. After one reset, it's usaully OK.


Seeing the knock real time, instead of through the ECM/ALDL, has helped me a lot to diagnois the source my false knock (engine movement on shifts - HR poly mount to be installed soon).

 

[Red Regal T]

TRIED DIFFERENT ESC MODULE WITH NO CHANGE. ONCE IT GOES PAST THE STANDBY LITE IT STAYS THERE AND I HAVE TO RESET IT WITH A TOGGLE I HAVE HOOKED UP IN LINE. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS? I'LL TRY A DIFFERENT ECM TOMORROW AND SEE IF IT GOES BACK TO WORKING PROPERLY.

 

[dsa87gn]

Is the any baseline correlation to what degree of
knock/retard to the lights on this gauge ?

 

[gnturbo]

talk about funny stuff,The knock gauge works like a charm when I put the thrasher 92 chip in ,which knocks only a little, occasionally(maybe a 1-1.5).When I put the Kenne bell chip in it knocks to 3 or 4 until I get it tuned,during which the knock gauge very rarely lights up even with a retard showing up t0 5.8 on the scanmaster.Two different chips,one scanmaster readings and same casper knock gauge but blinks more sensitve depending on the chip.Crazy huh?by the way what is the "esc module"?

 

[b4black]

I would think (but I'm probably wrong) that the ECM/PROM couldn't effect the Casper gauge becuase it is tapped into the signal wire BEFORE the ECM. You can use the gauge without an ECM.

At this point, I would call John Spina and ask his opinion. He might even exchange it for another if you want.



The ESC module is the controller (little black box) between the sensor and the ECM. It's located on the passenger side inner fender. ESC = Electronic Spark Control.

 

[gnturbo]

well can I just attach my signal wire some where else?I have it attached to the wire that the instructions specify but maybe get it closer the this "esc module" or the knock sensor will make it more sensitive?Maybe I am gettinga adifferent knock or a stronger knock with one of the chips use and that is why the gauge works so well with one chip over the other.I always watch my scanmaster and if I gotta watch two gauges to make sure they both work then One has to go.If the knock gauge corelated with the scanmaster I would be a lot happier.

 

[GNVenom]

The Knock gage only looks at the overall picture with respect to detonation. It doesn't know the actual timing pull that happens, because the degree of knock retard is a calculated and derived value, where it is determined by a number of factors, RPM, engine load, and MPH for starters. This is why the data stream replies with knock retard at different levels. The gage simply looks at "severity" of detonation, filtering out the "ticks" and displaying the total of the signals present from the ESC module...the processed signals. The ESC has its own job; it looks at ALL the noise from the knock sensor, then passes a "window" of knock that the ECM sees. The window is designed to pass thru only what would be considered valid detonation and reject the other higher or lower frequency noise. Soooo, the gage is designed to display severity of detonation and gives it to you in color...green is generally low (1 to 3 degrees of KR), yellow-which is what I tune for-is generally 4 to 7 degrees, and red (lift the throttle!) is generally above that. It stores the values for around 4 seconds, then resets. If the gage doesn't reset, it's usually because of a false signal from the ESC or possibly less than battery voltage to the gage circuitry. Try moving the positive feed to another location. If that doesn't work, you can replace the ESC only as a last resort. Then of course, you can always send it back to us, we'll replace it.
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com

 

[gnturbo]

well thats exactly what I wanted to hear and I am glad you set me straight.If that is the way the gauge works then it is working fine.I am just not getting that much"severe" knock.I get into the 1.5 to 3 range at times and the greens light up.But the other day I had the boost up and got a 4-5 in third and it did not light up.Does the gauge recieve a signal at the 1.4 per second rate like the ecm or is it isntantaneous?

 

[GNVenom]

The gage receives the filtered knock signal in real-time, and has its own filter internally to block the real short duration pulses. It only registers the normal duration pulses, and accumulates the event. If the strong knock signals get to the gage slowly, it will increment slowly, but the burst knock that you should worry about will show on the LEDs instantaneously, so you should see the color that coordinates with the severity. Generally, the knock gage is positioned in the pillar along with your boost gage, line of sight, so you don't actually have to LOOK at the display, but you will see the color of the LEDs in the outer edge of your peripheral vision, and act accordingly.
Whew!
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com

 

[dadmomcat]

I had the same problem, installed a momentary switch on the ground wiring going to the gauge. After starting engine, just push in the button for a second, gauge will reset. I put my switch next to the gauge in the gauge pod.

 

[Black Car]

This isn't my thread and I don't know how may name got posted to it .
Whoever thread this was I didn't do anything or "hack" this thread.
I have sent a note to Nick for him to look into it.

Just want the original owner to know that I have anything to do with name changing on the thread.

Gary

 

[KillrV6]

i got all the same problems with my knock gauge that you guys are having!

when i was trying to wire it to the recomended places (I.E ignition) i would start the car up and it would stay on a green or yellow LED. every time i would start the car, it would move up an LED.

switched the power source to the battery. the gauge stayd on all the time (the green LED at the bottom of the gauge) but it functioned normally.


than i realized that when my knock gauge goes red, my scanmaster is only picking up 1* of knock or so. some tiems 0.


what is the deal here? is my knock gauge intercepting signals to the scanmaster?

if so, i dont know if i want the knock gauge at all anymore!

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

I've installed 2 lately bought new and they will not reset at all

If I get some knock it will not go away

I think its time they improve on the product alil

for the price of that lil gauge it sure dont do much when its just staying lit all the time