Carb adjustment maybe?

[DOUNVME]

I've gotta 85 Regal 3.8 V6. New plugs, wires, dist cap, ignition coil, and carb rebuild and a new TPS sensor. When I rebuilt the carb, I know I didn't get it adjusted right b/c it would not run with the primary choke on it. When I took the primary choke off, it had a really rough idle when cold but after a few minutes it would idle fine and run fine. Down the road it runs in the rich area according to an aftermarker A pillar mounted air/fuel ratio gauge. I noticed that my gas mileage has been gradually decreasing.
Well, today, I jump in crank it up (it crunk and idled with no hesitation). I put it in gear and pulled off. When I came to a stop, it wanted to choke down. I put it in neutral and revved it up a little until I could pull off. It was blowing lots of black smoke out and at low rpms, it would barely go. It DRANK a little more than 1/2 a tank of gas to make a 72 mile round trip on open highway going 50-60 mph. It was rather cool today here in middle/south GA. What could be my problem? I have not checked the plugs yet b/c the motor was still warm. If I need to take the carb off and adjust, where can I find a dummy's guide to making carb adjustment. Also, I don't have any loose vac lines, but where can I find a detailed vacuum diagram for this car? Thanks in advance. I really need to get this worked out quickly b/c I have to go to college everyday and I don't like driving the GN too much!:biggrin:

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ttype83]

There is a tool kit for adjusting the primaries. I should still have mine, I'll be down in Columbus, Ga tomorrow night and wednesday morning. I'll also be back there friday-sunday if that helps.

 

[DOUNVME]

Thanks alot! You said there is a tool for adjusting the primaries. I only have a 2 barrel. It's a 210 Rochester. Will the adjustments still be the same?

 

[Ttype83]

I'm not sure if the adjustments at the same, should be close. Do you still have the instructions, they will have the adjustments you need with this tools. Your air bleed has 2 o-rings on it, if one of the o-rings are bad it will mess up the mixture as well.
The tools I have are for measuring the air bleed valve, tool for turning it and a spacer for setting the primaries.

 

[DOUNVME]

Embarrasing to say, I took it apart without making any measurements as suggested in the instructions. I am clueless as to what any measurements should be or where the air bleed valve is. I still have the instructions and all of the gaskets and o-rings that I didn't use initially. I didn't rebuild the choke as suggested either b/c I needed my car back right away and I didn't have the right size rivets to reassemble the choke.

 

[Ttype83]

I never do the choke either :biggrin:

 

[b4black]

2-bbl 3.8 carbs should be a dime-a-dozen in the junkyard. I'd get one that has not had any of the plugs removed. Swapping carb is great for troubleshooting.


Or find a 4.1 Qjet and intake.

 

[DOUNVME]

Well I got the carb off and took it apart. When I took the top portion off, there was a little metal cylinder like part laying in the carb. The first picture is of the metal part. The second picture is where is was laying. On the black part. Where did it come from and what does it do? The carb was full of gas, in every compartment. Where do I go from here?

 

[Ttype83]

If memory serves, that goes on the top plate of the carb, above the TPS.
I used some white grease to help hold it in place. Still not easy you need 3 hands. With out that in place
TPS should read WOT at idle.

 

[DOUNVME]

I got it all put back together but now it doesn't want to run when I give it gas. It wants to stall. But my heater core is leaking now, so I will have to change that as well as troubleshoot the carb. :frown:

 

[Ttype83]

You need to hold down the pin for the TPS when reinstalling the top, I used a small flat screw driver. At the same time pushing the accel pump rod down and holding the bar for the TPS in the top of the carb.

 

[Freddie's Buick]

Did your stall problems began before or after you attempted to rebuild the carb?

If after, you're going to have a tough time getting it right. Get a junkard one, or buy a new rebuild, or have a mechanic deal with fixing the carb.

Jim is a great asset if you can touch base with him. But if you can't, all I can say is that if you know nothing about rebuilding carbs you should of left it up to a pro. Even replacing the TPS sensor can cause aggravation once you open up the carb.

Get the Doug Roe book if you wanna do it yourself and read the rebuild kit's instruction carefully. The hardest part is as Jim said. Putting back the air horn requires patience and making sure you put all those plugs, rods and linkage properly in their original place. One mistake and it will fail.

Also, don't do it on the engine bay. Remove the carb and save you back. It's easier to see if you made any critical errors like breaking or jamming the air horn gasket once it's removed off of the vehicle.

Good luck!

 

[Ttype83]

I should have some free time on Saturday, I'll be taking the 83 with me this time. I can bring my Doug Roe book with. I have to jump ship Sunday night(work), have class starting Monday for 7 days

 

[DOUNVME]

No, I rebuilt this carb about 4-5 months ago. When I did it the first time, that is when I took the primary choke off. It was just running really rich is the reason I took it off this time. It kind of gradually starting running richer and richer over the past 6 weeks. After using 1/2 tank of gas for a 72 mile round trip, I figured now is the time to fix it again. Yes, both times I took the carb off of the car. The screw with the flat end on it, under the top cover, just above the black plastic piece that goes above the float, (I hope I explained that right), well I tightened it down all the way and I think that is where I restricted the amount of gas it mixes. The screw does not have a head that you use a flathead screwdriver with, it has a protruding flat section that I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to turn.

Anyways, now I think my problem is I am not getting enough gas.

 

[Ttype83]

I would say you are right, I have the spacer to set the primaries. I'll bring everything with me.

 

[Freddie's Buick]

.....I have the spacer to set the primaries. I'll bring everything with me.

Yep....

I think it's 1.304". Some kits come with the measuring tube. Too many turns in you run rich....too many out you run lean. With the pre-measured tube you wont go wrong...:biggrin:


Good luck!

 

[fc227]

How is the Float adjustment? Is the needle seat tight on the carb? My was loose and it kept flooding the engine.

 

[Morbid]

I remember rebuilding my 210 Dualjet. It's realitively easy and the kits are also easy to find. A company called Thexton makes tools you need to adjust/set a GM Feedback Carb.

The instructions that come with the kit were ok including the assembly diagram but there is also a Rochester Carbuerator Manual by Haynes I have which was way better.

You really need to take measurements before taking some things out and there are some others that need to be made while you have it on the bench. TPS and Pull offs are done once the carb it back on.

You don't need rivets for the choke cover. Most kits will come with the proper sized screws to use instead once you've popped the rivets out and made you adjustment or repair.

Ttype83 is right about the TPS adjusting screw and how to install the it while putting the Air Horn back on the body. Did you check the voltage for the TPS?
When the TPS is off the car won't run worth a damn.

 

[DOUNVME]

I haven't messed with it since. I am out of college for spring break this week, maybe I will get a chance to get it straight. I also have to replace the heater core. I really need to spend about 8 more hours dedicated to this thing so that I can get it back on the road and feel proud about once again.

 

[b4black]

You should by a scan tool. Search ebay for a cheap OTC Monitor 85 or 2000.