Car will not build boost!

I have checked the whole car for exhaust leaks. It has no cat and a 3" hand built exhaust with a 4" straight through muffler. I checked the intake and cleaned the intercooler and the converter has to be fine because it's the second one I have put in it and still the same problem. It's only a 2,600-2,800 stall 12" converter should be perfect for the TE-44.
Has to be and is aren't the same! Maybe you don't have a te44? If it's a 12" converter and you have any other exhaust housing than a re-contoured Garrett .63 it will be lazy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Will not build any boost at all? Or just not as much as you want? What rpm can you stall it to, and what boost level do you achieve?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 
I'm wondering about puck alignment. What is the downpipe arrangement? Also, when you say the actuator is properly adjusted, what do you mean?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 
Has to be and is aren't the same! Maybe you don't have a te44? If it's a 12" converter and you have any other exhaust housing than a re-contoured Garrett .63 it will be lazy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I understand where you are coming from on the converter but the car was running totally fine at the track one day last June and then it went to shit within a run or two and wouldn't build boost on the line anymore. So I towed the car home. Checked the puck and couldn't find an issue. So I ordered a new one and put that in still no difference. Then I took the TE-44 off the car and put the stock turbo on the car and still no boost on foot brake. Bought a brand new TE-44 and installed that same thing. Thought maybe it was the Torque Converter so I bought a brand new one installed that and still the same issue. Tried 3 different MAF sensors. So if it was converter then I have had two bad converters? So I have tried 3 different turbos 2 converters and 3 MAF sensors and still can not build boost off foot brake. Sprayed the whole engine down with brake cleaner checking for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Has 15 lbs of vacuum at idle and you hold the brake and floor the car RPMs come up to 2400 and all you see is around 4 lbs of boost. So I am totally lost and ready to put it back in storage for another year.
 
It takes x amount of exhaust pressure to make x amount of manifold pressure. It takes x amount of rpm and load to make x amount of exhaust pressure to move the air. So either the exhaust energy is inadequate or the wheel(s) are damaged. New doesn't mean good or correct a lot of times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Off the foot brake it will only build 4lbs but driving down the road it will go up to 20 lbs as the RPMs rise. If you are rolling at say 15 mph and step on it and it downshifts to 1st it pulls great boost and goes good but from a dead stop or foot brake it feels like a non turbo car. I used to be able to foot brake the car to 14lbs and launch at the track now it won't do more than 4lbs
 
2400 rpm at 4 psi sounds like a stock converter, or a looser converter when the engine is down on torque. Since you have changed a lot of stuff with seemingly no improvement I'm starting to thing about base engine issues. Once the preturbo exhaust leak question is answered.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 
2400 rpm at 4 psi sounds like a stock converter, or a looser converter when the engine is down on torque. Since you have changed a lot of stuff with seemingly no improvement I'm starting to thing about base engine issues. Once the preturbo exhaust leak question is answered.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
That's exactly what I was thinking is the engine itself has an issue
 
15 inches of vacuum at idle is a little low. Is there any fluctuation in vacuum or is the needle steady at idle? Check when you rev it to see where it drops to and where it rebounds to.
 
15 inches of vacuum at idle is a little low. Is there any fluctuation in vacuum or is the needle steady at idle? Check when you rev it to see where it drops to and where it rebounds to.
I will check it and see if it fluctuates after revving the car but it's usually between 15-18
 
Do you have a shop vac? Connect the hose to the exhaust side of the vacuum. Pull the maf and clamp the vacuum hose on the intake. Turn on the vacuum and see what you find.

The same can be done on the exhaust but if you have duals, you will need to plug the other pipe.
Pre turbo exhaust leaks are what to look for. Look close at the crossover pipe. I've seen them split open. Also make sure all the bolts are in the flanges.

The hunt is on.

Rick
 
I've seen where the stock intercooler shifted and the fan put a hole in it... That's another good place to take a close look..
 
Top