Car acts like I have a two step?

SixOn66

Finally A Racing Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2001
OK, I have a new engine and it ran fine on Saturday of the BMC for 5 runs. Late sat it started to miss. It will not drive,brake tourque, or rev up in RPMs without a stutter. That night i swapped out wires, Ing Mod and Coil pack with known good without any help. I changed spark plugs twice( I did not know RS43s were not to be used in GN1s) with race Autolites and Autolite 103s . I swapped the ECM, and Chips (several times). Also swapped MAF, with a traslator setup, still no good. I did have an exhaust leak from the drivers side gasket plus four ckackes in the header. I had them welded and put a new gasket on. Yester day I changed the injectors and it still stutters. The fuel pressure is fine and never drops off under load. I did a compression check at the BMC 150 on the Drivers and 160 on the Pass side. I am lost now. i need your infinate wisdom here. Today waiting to let it go closed loop it tripped a 45 code rich exhaust O2 voltage and cross counts were fine. I would like to make it to the dyno session on SAT at ATR. Any ideas?

Thanks,
MJH
 
2 thoughts, ck your injector wiring.while it is running pull an injector wire off one at a time.see if the motor makes a change, if not, you have found the problem. Also ck your grounds again. They some times when put on fresh will loosen up and can cause this problem. one other thought,ck your crank sensor to see if you can move it.that can also cause what your seeing.

hth

Puddin :)
 
Thanks. Checked the Crank sensor b4 work that is tight. I will check the grounds and the harness after work.
 
I charged the battery and had 14.2v when I started it. I checked the three ground and they are tight. I pulled one injector wire off at a time they all changed the way the car sounded. I put DS on it and when it starts to stutter the O2 cross counts stop. the INT is around 127-8 but the BLM's go down to 90 on what ever cell it locks on. I have a new heated Denso I think I will throw on. Any other ideas?
 
Does it run better with the MAF disconnected? Any air leaks on the cold side of the turbo? Seems like youi've covered everything else.... :)
 
I disconnected the MAF it did not change the way it was running. I thought I blew off a IC hose at first but I can not find anything loose. The O2s drop to the 200s when I record it missing. Are they supposed to get that low? Battery voltage changes .5 volts at idle. I turned the FP as far down as it will go and the BLMs are still low at 90.
 
And the Winner is..
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Cam Sensor. I searched a bunch last nite and this morning went out and started the car, Disconnected the Cam Sensor. The break up went away. I reset the sensor and starts and rev fine now. Maybe the sensor is bad or just walked on me. We will see. New cam sensor will have to be purchased soon as a back up. Thanks for the help.

MJH
 
Check to make sure that the interrupter ring is not broken in the sensor. The pin that holds it down breaks and then its only held in place by the screw. If broke you will reset the sensor and then after 1-2 hard passes it move again.


SixOn66 said:
And the Winner is..
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Cam Sensor. I searched a bunch last nite and this morning went out and started the car, Disconnected the Cam Sensor. The break up went away. I reset the sensor and starts and rev fine now. Maybe the sensor is bad or just walked on me. We will see. New cam sensor will have to be purchased soon as a back up. Thanks for the help.

MJH
 
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