Can brake pads get old??

HEATSEEKER

Member!
Joined
Jan 16, 2006
Hello!

I am woundering if brake pads can get old and slippery??

This is why i am woundering.
Now when i brake hard the car still moves, whit no ABS the tires should leave black marks on the ground when i brake the hardest i can, but noo... just cruising along... :frown:
The brake pads have been on the car for least 6 years.
I have some "new" brake pads that still lies in the box, but they are 5 years old, are they bad to now?

Thanks!
 
I would just get a New set since they don't cost much and today's Brake pads are made pretty damn good. Get some new shoes along with normal cut of rotors/drums.
 
You won't solve weak braking capability with new pads and shoes. You need to inspect the entire system for other problems. Such as: leaking lines, calipers, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder. Weak braking can also be a sign of the powermaster accumulator failure.
 
You won't solve weak braking capability with new pads and shoes. You need to inspect the entire system for other problems. Such as: leaking lines, calipers, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder. Weak braking can also be a sign of the powermaster accumulator failure.

Okej, there are no leaking lines, wheel cylinders are ok and also the master cylinder.
The car breaks straight and they take equal so i think thats left are the powermaster.

Where are the accumulator? something that i can fix or do i need to buy something new?

All help is appreciated and some pictures helps me sooo much because my bad tech language.... ;):D
 
How many Miles are on the 6 year pads?
My Silverado had glazed over pads, they lasted a loooong time. But I noticed they were the Ceramic, low dust type pads.
I scuffed them up to take the glaze off; it worked for awhile. Never thought nothing of it. Till recently I've been having brake and rotor problems and thought the pads were it. I went and bought some New Ceramic type again which were a little more expensive low dust and supposedly last longer. But I do not like the way they stop. It shudders a little and the brake/alignment mechanic told me to take the rotors off and bring them to him for him to Turn. Even though I just had them turned at my job with a lathe machine. But he told me they may not be TRUE. Im gonna give that a shot before I rule out the Ceramic pads. But I don't like them so far we'll see.

The Buick just got new rotors and pads about 3 months ago, I went with the semi-metalic Silver cheaper grade, instead of the (Gold-grade ceramic for the truck).
I have vacuum brakes, the pads produce some brake dust which I hate but it stops Great!!! I may go with the Silver grade on the truck if getting them turned at the brake shop doesn't fix it. Just have to clean them more often.

I guess when it comes to pads cheaper may be better in this case If you are wanting to stop...:eek:
 
How many Miles are on the 6 year pads?
My Silverado had glazed over pads, they lasted a loooong time. But I noticed they were the Ceramic, low dust type pads.
I scuffed them up to take the glaze off; it worked for awhile. Never thought nothing of it. Till recently I've been having brake and rotor problems and thought the pads were it. I went and bought some New Ceramic type again which were a little more expensive low dust and supposedly last longer. But I do not like the way they stop. It shudders a little and the brake/alignment mechanic told me to take the rotors off and bring them to him for him to Turn. Even though I just had them turned at my job with a lathe machine. But he told me they may not be TRUE. Im gonna give that a shot before I rule out the Ceramic pads. But I don't like them so far we'll see.

The Buick just got new rotors and pads about 3 months ago, I went with the semi-metalic Silver cheaper grade, instead of the (Gold-grade ceramic for the truck).
I have vacuum brakes, the pads produce some brake dust which I hate but it stops Great!!! I may go with the Silver grade on the truck if getting them turned at the brake shop doesn't fix it. Just have to clean them more often.

I guess when it comes to pads cheaper may be better in this case If you are wanting to stop...:eek:

Maybe 10.000miles?!
 
I would just get a New set since they don't cost much and today's Brake pads are made pretty damn good. Get some new shoes along with normal cut of rotors/drums.

Yes i think so to, i am just woundering if i just need the pads or something more...?
I have to order all my parts from USA and i just whant to order on time so i don´t need to pay so mutch in shipping etc :frown:
 
Okej, there are no leaking lines, wheel cylinders are ok and also the master cylinder.
The car breaks straight and they take equal so i think thats left are the powermaster.

Where are the accumulator? something that i can fix or do i need to buy something new?

All help is appreciated and some pictures helps me sooo much because my bad tech language.... ;):D

The accumulator is the round ball next to the master. Be very careful if you replace it yourself. make sure with key off, dam I even disconnect battery. Pump the brake pedal at least 25-30 times.This will get rid of pressure in accumulator .then it twists off with nut on top of ball. dont stand in front of ball when twisting it off. If that thing is pressurized when twisted off it will do physical damage to you and anything else in its way. Make sure front calipers are not leaking. Pull boot away from piston and make sure. They will hold a good amount of fluid between seal and boot. new pads are not going to fix this car. try bleeding the system out and see what kind of pressure you have from bleeders. Is brake light coming on? I would update the cylinders anyway.good luck
 
The accumulator is the round ball next to the master. Be very careful if you replace it yourself. make sure with key off, dam I even disconnect battery. Pump the brake pedal at least 25-30 times.This will get rid of pressure in accumulator .then it twists off with nut on top of ball. dont stand in front of ball when twisting it off. If that thing is pressurized when twisted off it will do physical damage to you and anything else in its way. Make sure front calipers are not leaking. Pull boot away from piston and make sure. They will hold a good amount of fluid between seal and boot. new pads are not going to fix this car. try bleeding the system out and see what kind of pressure you have from bleeders. Is brake light coming on? I would update the cylinders anyway.good luck

No, the brake light don´t light.
I don´t lose any pressure when i hold the brake down...
 
Hi,
You are probably not going to want to hear this,but I personally would get rid of the powermaster.It is an aweful system,and has caused more than a few wrecks. In it's place,I recommend a vacuum system or hydroboost. My cars work great with hydroboost AND with vacuum. So I have had the benefit of seeing how they both work.Just a thought...
 
Hi,
You are probably not going to want to hear this,but I personally would get rid of the powermaster.It is an aweful system,and has caused more than a few wrecks. In it's place,I recommend a vacuum system or hydroboost. My cars work great with hydroboost AND with vacuum. So I have had the benefit of seeing how they both work.Just a thought...

Hello!

Maybe that, hmmm...
But i still whant to know what the problem are... :cool:
 
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