c-clip eliminators vs Ford brg

Larry

New Member
Joined
May 27, 2001
Changing over from stock posi with c-clip eliminators to a spool with strange 33 spine axles. I under stand a Ford brg can be used vs the c-clip eliminator set up. Im finding the stock brakes will not work with the Ford bearing. How can I use the Ford bearing with the stock brakes? Thanks Larry:confused:
 
Originally posted by Larry
[B.... How can I use the Ford bearing with the stock brakes? Thanks Larry:confused: [/B]

You cann't.:(

If you use the weld on flanges, the backing plates must be changed. Early Camero or A-body ones will work. Of course you must then use the early wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware as well. No stock parts will work except the parking brake cables.
 
Nick, thanks. Is there a real advantange to using the weld on Ford Flange vs the C-clips? Thanks Larry :confused:
 
I could never get the e-brake to work with c-clip elims?

If the car is street driven, good possibility of leaks with the elim set up. Weld on flanges have been no problem. Only did one elim, will not do that again. Lots of weld on Ford types with no problems. Just my experience.:)
 
I did this........

I recently went to a spool w/33 spline axles. I used the Ford ends from Moser. I also added the big Ford drum brake kit from Moser. It came with everything. Backing plates,drums, and shoes. It was a direct bolton. I can now hold as much boost as I want at the starting line. It's like being tied to a tree. No more pushing. As far as c-clips go; if someone has these on their car and they say they don't leak, then they don't drive their car enough. They will leak. Good luck
 
Can you use the 33 spline axles with a posi set up? I am guessing that if you go to 33 vs 30, you can not use the stock brakes?

My rear end guy told me that in order to use the stock brakes, 30 splines were what were needed. Is he wrong, or did I understand him wrong?
 
Use the Mark Williams OR Moser flanges. They have the ones that have the 64-77 A body /67-81 F body small 4 bolt pattern that was very common on the GM cars. Their special flanges have a recess for the pressed on Ford 9" bearing which is WAY more durable and leak free than the c clip eliminators; which to me are just a bandaid.
If you drive your car a lot, this is the set up to have as it will save you the aggravation of saturated brake shoes.
As for the brakes, you use the standard backing plate, hardware, wheel cylinders and shoes from an F body or A body....very easy stuff to get. No redrilling of drums, no bias problems as opposed to using the large Ford drums which means all Ford hardware and redrilling the drums.
Another option would be some sort of disc brake kit....which the earlier style 4 bolt flange will give you many more options.
As for going to 33 spline axles; I wouldnt do it unless you plan on definitely running a spool. The only limited slip type differential available in a 33 spline for an 8.5 is an Eaton.
The problem with the 33 spline Eaton is that the same case used for 28 and 30 splines is used for the 33. As the amount of splines increases, the larger the i.d. of the case where the axle goes in.
That means the area where the bearing presses on gets thinner since the o.d. doesnt change. The cases crack there as they are only nodular iron. If going posi....stay 30 spline. If you absolutely have to have 33 spline, then get a good quality steel spool.
 
The drum brake kit from moser is already drilled to GM specs. All I had to do was hook up the brake line and go. It can't get any easier than that.
 
just remember if you go with a spool, and you break an axle you will be heading into the gaurdrail, with a posi the car will just not go, something to think about!!!
 
just remember if you go with a spool, and you break an axle you will be heading into the gaurdrail,
Ahh- now you tell me! :mad: Larry
 
MAy 02' ordered T/A's alum block

Originally posted by Larry
just remember if you go with a spool, and you break an axle you will be heading into the gaurdrail,
Ahh- now you tell me! :mad: Larry

Have you got your block yet?

If not, it should be there VERY shortly, so do let us know!

TIA!! :)
 
Its going to take a whole lot to break a 33 spline axle.I wouldnt worry about it much.
 
Originally posted by BigDaddy
The drum brake kit from moser is already drilled to GM specs. All I had to do was hook up the brake line and go. It can't get any easier than that.
Couple of questions on this:

My aluminum drums are at max spec so I have to get new and plan on doing brakes over the winter so...


- If I buy this kit does it come with everything including drums to eliminate the c-clips?
- How much does it cost?
- Any welding required?

TIA!
 
there is both cutting and welding required and it should be done in a jig

figure $1500 after it is all said and done
 
Originally posted by azgn
there is both cutting and welding required and it should be done in a jig

figure $1500 after it is all said and done
There goes that idea unless..... is it required at a certain speed or condition for NHRA? I hopefully will see some mid 10's next year and often so does that fall under the terms and conditions?
 
well, you have to get rid of the c-clips to be legal in NHRA 10.99 and down....also need SFI balancer ($350+) and trans blanket

fast ain't cheap

actually, you can prolly do the axles for $1100.......I was including the price of a new posi:)
 
Yes its very unlikely to break a 33 spline axle, i was just thinking of a worst case situation.
 
Two Lane- No block or heads yet. T/A has both there for me. He will be assembling- so, Im waiting for the heads to be ported and cc'd so the pistons can be matched and purchased. Im told late Nov or Dec 03. The crank etc are at T/A. Its been a long wait, but- Im hanging in there. Larry
 
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