Bypass Valve Tight

[HighDesert-T]

Just wondering if the bypass valve actuator should be this hard to turn. Have to use a set of pliers to move the valve while it is hooked up to that vac valve.

Does thing need to be replaced? Is it a good idea to replace the egr as well, while this thing is apart? Might as well get most things done while I have access to them all.

 

[HighDesert-T]

I take it this is normal then. Seems odd that this would be this hard to tunr with the vacuum actuator hooked up. Grommets should be in soon, so in it all goes sometime this week.

 

[b4black]

Are you talking about one of the valves for the AIR pump? That's the only bypass valve I can think of. I wouldn't think it would be tight, but it's probably better to check it see if it turns once the car is running. Or aply 12 V to it and see if it turns.

 

[HighDesert-T]

I am referring to the valve that sits directly on top of the turbo unit. There is an arm that comes off to the left as you are looking at the motor and it appears to open a waste gate. It is vacuum operated.

 

[b4black]

OK, I think I got it.

The rod should be pretty difficult to pull out of the actuator (you will need pliers to hold it). There is a big spring inside. There is also a diaphragm inside which uses the boost pressure to push against the spring. It will take about 9psi to push it out.

When the rod is off the wastegate, the wastegate should pivot freely.

The rod may have a threaded portion (visable) which when turned will lengthen/shorten the rod and change the opening point.



For my car, I have the wastegate pretty much clamped shut. I believe the stock downpipe is my boost limiter (~12-14 psi). For now.