Thanks for the tip!! I wish there was someone around here that was familiar enough with these cars to help me out. Id pay 60 bucks an hour I just want this thing to run again because when it does it is so NASTY. Can't keep tires on the car :biggrin: . I will try these steps probably sunday when I have calmed down a bit from today. Are these steps still valid if the car now runs?
@#$!%^&$# Buick!!
- Thread starter 87TIGN
- Start date
Thanks for the tip!! I wish there was someone around here that was familiar enough with these cars to help me out. Id pay 60 bucks an hour I just want this thing to run again because when it does it is so NASTY. Can't keep tires on the car :biggrin: . I will try these steps probably sunday when I have calmed down a bit from today. Are these steps still valid if the car now runs?
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
So I grabbed my spark light and hooked it up. The car at idle has great consistent spark but as you bring idle up and the sputtering begins it starts to cut out and eventually there is almost no light up just before it dies. So I think it is the ICM still?? Maybe with my luck I just got a bad one the first time around??? What do you guys think?? My fuel pressure remains constant this whole time so I would assume its just a spark issue if the spark light dosent work when it sputters right???
Thanks
-Andrew
Wouldn't be the first time, by any stretch(!), that a replacement module was $h!t.... did you get a reman or OEM module?
scanmaster data looks ok to me... (need to adjust iac, but oh well) O2 jumping around like expected would give you the thought that it's probably ok.... and cross counts on the scanmaster could confirm this.... can't remember what the hell PL is?? I use a logger and don't have a SM...:redface:
Cam sensor can be pointed any which way you want it.... just depends on how you orient the rotor relative to the cap.... like a distributer... so that won't tell you anything... if it ran fine for months, one would assume it's adjusted fine.... and 180 out doesn't result in your symptoms.... for kicks, pull the cap off and verify everything is reasonably tight and not flopping around in there....
did you make sure the balancer is tight and not moving around when you replaced the crank sensor??
I'm leaning back to the module....
don't get frustrated, you'll get it figured out, and will have learned alot in the process... :wink:bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
I made one by soldering a wire from the ign harness ground and put a connector on the end and bolted it to the firewall but it is not currently hooked up. I will post a picture and see what you guys think
Sweet! I will def try that tommorrow! I have a newer pack on there but I also have an older pack in the shop that I can put on and see what happens. I was also thinking about getting another ICM and seeing what happens.
Turbo1dr
9 Sec Wanna-Be
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
So you're saying you are pulling a ground from the modules connector and screwing it to the firewall?
The outside case of the module has to be grounded too.
So did you get the car running? Is it still sputturing?? I had the same issue with my car, i tried everything, new ecm, chip, cranck sensor, coils, module, maf sensor, ech.. end up being faulty spark plug wires and over gapped plugs... Also, have you tried hooking it up to any kind of scanner to check for any faulty codes?? even the snap-on scanner will be able to pull any faulty codes and give you an idea....
richardv6
Active Member
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
rough running and stall
had one do same thing to me, turned out that the crank balancer bolt lossened up and the crank sensor window was getting to far from sensor causing rough running and stalling issues intermittenly.check and make sure crank bolt is tight.
had one do same thing to me, turned out that the crank balancer bolt lossened up and the crank sensor window was getting to far from sensor causing rough running and stalling issues intermittenly.check and make sure crank bolt is tight.
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
Factory Spec is 219 ft-lbs...
eek: ) A dab of blue locktite won't hurt either... If you don't have a torque wrench that goes up that high, make sure you give it a goooood hit with a good impact wrench...- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Get a AC/Delco sensor too. Cheap aftermaket ones will cause issues. Though the car may start and run, flat spots in certian RPM ranges are a direct result of a aftermarket POS crank sensor.
Swaped out the coil pack today and seems to run ok so far. However it has done this numerous times before where it will run decent but the second I start it up a second time to go for a drive it craps out so we will see. Ill keep you guys posted
Took it for a second test drive, bout 15-20 mins long, engine temp at 175 and seemed to run pretty well. I still dont buy it however . I will take it out again tommorow and run it through some more heat cycles to see what happens. So far just the coil pack swaped out. I unplugged the vaccum line from the EGR like someone suggested but didnt seem to affect the car so I am guessing that is still ok.
. I will take it out again tommorow and run it through some more heat cycles to see what happens. So far just the coil pack swaped out. I unplugged the vaccum line from the EGR like someone suggested but didnt seem to affect the car so I am guessing that is still ok.Seems to be running just fine (knock on wood ). So I guess it was due to a bad coilpack. Thanks so much for your help and patience guys!! I really appreciate it and keep this in mind for the next guy that is pulling his hair out over this stupid issue!!
). So I guess it was due to a bad coilpack. Thanks so much for your help and patience guys!! I really appreciate it and keep this in mind for the next guy that is pulling his hair out over this stupid issue!!
