Break In Miles

Spooln1

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
I picked up a new TR yesterday and it has a fairly new motor and turbo in it. My Question is. How much should I break both the motor and turbo in and what is the correct way to do so? From what I was told the motor has 500 miles on it and the turbo has 100. I need to install a plenum spacer because of the 4" MAF before I really get on it. Below are the specs.

Motor:
Weber built:
Billet caps
.20 over forged wiseco pistons
10/10 turbo crank
Reconditioned rods(i think)
206/206 roller cam, roller rockers etc
GN1 heads
Poston exhaust manifolds
TT Chip for 93octane (i'll get alky in the near futur)
Turbo:
PT6776 - journal bearing

Thanks in advance. I look forward to putting the hurt on some supras in the chi-town area.

Neil
 
roller cam motors don't require any break. once the oil pressure and temp are established you can put your foot in it. running some boost through it will help seat the rings but at 500 miles that window has already passed for this motor. if its not smoking and has good oil pressure i wouldn't do anything special at this point.

it looks like you have a pretty solid combo. it should run pretty strong.
 
I think even after 500m you should avoid a "steady state" cruise. So, don't set the cruise to 80 mph and drive 2 hours straight. In the first crucial couple thousand miles, the drive and coast side of the rings need to share some time. Sort of like like a ring and pinion in a differential.
 
My engine builder (Pete Barton of ANS) told me to not apply boost for 500 miles. I did that and knock on wood... the engine still runs great after 9 years and 15k miles.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Everything seems to be running great so far. Now I need to marry the exhaust to this damn 3.5" GN1 DP.......ugh. I'll probably put another couple hundred low boost miles on her before seeing all she's worth.
 
that a nice car you bought !! lets see some nice pix of it im sure you washed her already and took some pics..
 
As stated previously..... If the engine is machined and assembled correctly there is ZERO reason to "baby" the engine for 500 miles. I personally start the car and run it at 1800 RPM for about 20 minutes while observing for any abnomalities. (leaks, knocks, rattles, ect.) Then shut it off, change oil and filter, cut filter apart and inspect for copious amounts of debris. (the WILL be some) then start the engine, let it warm up, put the car in gear and place foot firmly on brake pedal, slowly increase RPM against the converter and bring boost up to 3-4 psi, then SLAM my foot to the floor and break the tires loose with boost. Settle the car back down and let it idle for a minute or so and turn it off and hand the keys over to the owner to go make a FULL boost pass. The only thing that should even touch inside an engine is rings, cam/lifter interface, push rods, rocker arms and seals. Everything else rides on a layer of oil. If it's going to break, it'll do it on start up or when your tune-up is off. Knock on wood.....I've never had an engine fail doing a break in this way. Top Fuel guys build an engine in 40 minutes and run it at 7,000 HP with virtually ZERO break in. All while being built on thier backs in a gravel parking lot.
For those that feel that the engine "needs" a 500 mile no boost break in, please enlighten me as to why? Where am I mistaken? Not that doing so really hurts anything, though. Except that the rings will usually not seal until they are loaded. Watch them on a engine dyno sometime. The breathers will smoke until you load the water brake.
To the original poster.................. drive it like you stole it. Sounds like a good combo that'll be alot of fun once you "grow a pair".;):D Have fun! I'm sure Weber would tell you the same.
 
My engine builder (Pete Barton of ANS) told me to not apply boost for 500 miles. I did that and knock on wood... the engine still runs great after 9 years and 15k miles.
As stated previously..... If the engine is machined and assembled correctly there is ZERO reason to "baby" the engine for 500 miles. I personally start the car and run it at 1800 RPM for about 20 minutes while observing for any abnomalities. (leaks, knocks, rattles, ect.) Then shut it off, change oil and filter, cut filter apart and inspect for copious amounts of debris. (the WILL be some) then start the engine, let it warm up, put the car in gear and place foot firmly on brake pedal, slowly increase RPM against the converter and bring boost up to 3-4 psi, then SLAM my foot to the floor and break the tires loose with boost. Settle the car back down and let it idle for a minute or so and turn it off and hand the keys over to the owner to go make a FULL boost pass. The only thing that should even touch inside an engine is rings, cam/lifter interface, push rods, rocker arms and seals. Everything else rides on a layer of oil. If it's going to break, it'll do it on start up or when your tune-up is off. Knock on wood.....I've never had an engine fail doing a break in this way. Top Fuel guys build an engine in 40 minutes and run it at 7,000 HP with virtually ZERO break in. All while being built on thier backs in a gravel parking lot.
For those that feel that the engine "needs" a 500 mile no boost break in, please enlighten me as to why? Where am I mistaken? Not that doing so really hurts anything, though. Except that the rings will usually not seal until they are loaded. Watch them on a engine dyno sometime. The breathers will smoke until you load the water brake.
To the original poster.................. drive it like you stole it. Sounds like a good combo that'll be alot of fun once you "grow a pair".;):D Have fun! I'm sure Weber would tell you the same.

Damn Ken you should be a mod. Good post!

RL
 
Dammmm ... Winter is HERE !!! Prob 75% of guys in here haven't "seated" their rings yet !! You know... Run 5#s of boost so they don't hurt their new motor :D Drive em like ya stole it :p
 
500 miles, she all ready broke in. Put your foot in it.:) but like others have stated change the oil 1st.
 
Will do. Thanks for all the advice. The weather is hit or miss right now in Illinois. Couple more things to button up before I can really hammer it. Converter and DP rework over the next couple o weeks.
 
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