Brake Fuse Blew

L

l3lue

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2005
Powermaster brake fuse blew, I checked the fluid and on one half of the reservoir it is dark. Do you think if I drain the fluid completely and replaced the brake fuse it may be ok? I plan on switching to vacuum eventually but would like to be able to drive the car around a little
 
No, your powermaster motor is shot, that's why it's kicking out your fuse. Either get another powermaster motor, or change the braking system to vacuum or hydroboost.
 
I would also look at the accumulator. An accumulator that doesn't hold pressure, causes the motor to run a lot more and burn up/blow the fuse. Also fluid should be changed in the reservoir at least 1-2 times a year depending on mileage or time.
 
Last I saw the rebuilt PM systems from Kirban were $700.

Since you're not interested in keeping it all original, now is the time to decide whether to go vacuum, manual, or hydro. Then get busy on it.


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87-WE2 said:
Last I saw the rebuilt PM systems from Kirban were $700.

Since you're not interested in keeping it all original, now is the time to decide whether to go vacuum, manual, or hydro. Then get busy on it.


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Click to expand...
What's the difference between hydro and vacuum? What are pros an cons of them?

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Your powermaster electric motor is like a starter motor--it was never designed to run more than 10-15 seconds at a time. The weak link in the system is the accumulator diaphragms loses it's pre-charge and therefore has nothing for the pump motor to push against--therefore it runs way longer than necessary and starts to overheat and thus drawing more amperage than the fuse can handle. My suggestion is to either go with kirban reman unit or go with hydroboost set up. I have not done mine yet but if the powermaster gives me any trouble this season--it is gone. The main problem with the system is that it will not give you any warning other than a light coming on the dash telling you that you have no brakes. Trying to stop a 3500 lb. car on manual brakes is no picnic. Just my thoughts. Dp
 
So should I even waste time and brake fluid by trying to bleed completely and replace fuse? or should I just go to a hydroboost system/Vaccum system? Still do not know the difference between those.
 
As it has been mentioned we offer all the various brake systems the vacuum unit we sell is under $400 and includes the critical part the brake pedal as the pin and location is different than the one on your pm system. Finding a good warrantied motor is tough we sold a few but it keeps us from selling a complete rebuilt unit...

we offer two different hydroboost systems....very time consuming to install unless whoever does the install has done it before....pros and cons on them and is the way to go if your engine is modified internally where lac of vacuum is an issue

another thought may be the brake switch is bad....long shot and again $100 plus gamble if I am wrong.as to why your fuse blew. I am not an expert by any means...but we do have the solutions depending on what you decide.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

On aside note pm and vacuum set ups are about neck to neck on sales each month....
 
Dennis,

Thanks for the reply, considering my engine is very stock I think I am going to go for a vacuum system. I don't need something super fast but just want something with safe brakes and to enjoy. I have other issues with the car but being these are brakes they have now become the forerunner of all my issues obviously lol... I was hoping to be able to have the powermaster system hold on for a little longer but reality is this needs to be addressed as soon as I can afford, I am putting everything else on hold until I can get this done. Thanks again!
 
Vacuum is the way to go for simplicity and reliability. Super simple conversion. You will not regret it. As been said stopping a 3500 pound car with a power disaster that suddenly and without warning looses brakes is pretty hairy. Had it happen 3 times in 20 years and the last powermaster I had hit the dumpster before it could cause another near death experience.
 
My suggestion is that your powermaster pump motor is shot, if you can find a replacement, and then also need an accumulator probably might fix it then what? Vacuum booster and a new master cylinder is probably the cheapest conversion. Hydroboost is more involved, but gives a lot more braking pressure at the wheels. Like Dennis kirban said--the brake pedal will have to be changed for a vacuum setup. Hydroboost does not need a pedal change. If originality is your goal--a replacement powermaster from kirban is plug and play. With the new generation of new Cardon powermaster accumulators--they are a lot better than they were originally. Dp
 
Rumor has it that a brand new power master is on the horizon. I haven't heard pricing for it though. I installed my hydroboost from Hydratech. Wasn't very hard. Just pull out the power master, push in the new unit, attach the brake pedal, brake lines, route a few hoses, bleed the brakes and you are done.
 
GNRick said:
Rumor has it that a brand new power master is on the horizon. I haven't heard pricing for it though. I installed my hydroboost from Hydratech. Wasn't very hard. Just pull out the power master, push in the new unit, attach the brake pedal, brake lines, route a few hoses, bleed the brakes and you are done.
Click to expand...
Looking at the hydratech website; what all will I need to buy - I'm guessing the

GM ALUMINUM OE STYLE ANGLED TANK '84-'88 G-BODY MC

But what else will I need? This can hook up to my current pedal?

Daniel PErkins said:
My suggestion is that your powermaster pump motor is shot, if you can find a replacement, and then also need an accumulator probably might fix it then what? Vacuum booster and a new master cylinder is probably the cheapest conversion. Hydroboost is more involved, but gives a lot more braking pressure at the wheels. Like Dennis kirban said--the brake pedal will have to be changed for a vacuum setup. Hydroboost does not need a pedal change. If originality is your goal--a replacement powermaster from kirban is plug and play. With the new generation of new Cardon powermaster accumulators--they are a lot better than they were originally. Dp
Click to expand...


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I think Kirban carries the Hydratech brand. I saved some money by not going with the fancy braided hoses. I had the high pressure hose made at a local hydraulics shop.
 
l3lue said:
What's the difference between hydro and vacuum? What are pros an cons of them?

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Click to expand...

FYI
Vacuum-assisted power brakes utilize vacuum that is generated by the engine to assist in reducing the force required by your foot to push the brake pedal.
Hydroboost uses hydraulic pressure generated by the power steering pump to assist in reducing the force required by your foot to push the brake pedal.

Many claim better stopping power from Hydroboost over vacuum. Many claim the powermaster has better stopping power than either of them. I have not seen any hard data on either of these claims, but I am by no means an expert.

I know that I switched to vacuum because my powermaster failed. I felt comfortable using vacuum because the 89 TTA's used vacuum brakes on the same motor, and there wouldn't be any leaky hoses, etc. Also, power steering pumps for our cars aren't available on every corner. Vacuum seemed to me the simplest solution for my case. I am happy with the results. See this thread. http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/holding-17-psi-on-the-foot-brake.403439/

I will also say that I have 2 GM diesel pickups with hydroboost set ups. BOTH will cause your poorly-glued dentures to hit the windshield in a panic stop.
 
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