Bowling Green 2022

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
Hey there, over the last year I've been getting my GN back into great condition. I'm sick of the slight tweak from an old accident in the driver rear and tried the coil over route but it's not leveling off the rear like I expected. I've contemplated...

Frame Swap (all extra expenses)
Back Half with 28" or 24" 4 link from Jegs

I'm curious with those who've done the frame swap...

What's a fair G Body frame price?

How many hours does the average swap take? I heard around 6-8, that seems pretty fast.

What should I add onto the frame swap job, getting it dipped is around $500, powdercoating is another $300, notch, bracing, anything I'm missing?

Anything else to do when swapping, like stainless brake lines, wait until you swap your engine to save some time while it's out etc?

Thanks
 

chasmat2316

Well-Known Member
I had the body off my car 2 times , with a lift its no big deal. just take your time, soak every body mount bolt & make sure you unbolted everything
 

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
It got straightened after the accident, I was recently shown a slight bump in the frame at the arch. They can't straightened it any more so there's no much left there.

Chasmat, how long did the swap take you?
I have recently had all the body mounts swapped with new bolts, should be easier.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
Some times straightening just makes it straight. Once kinked the frame looses rigidity, and next time folds up worse, or so I was told by my body guy.
We are still mulling over what we will do with mine though we did buy a roller with a quarter and frame to use should we go that route.






My body guy told me to notch it and plate it and id be good as new with the replacement quarter. Some other projects ahead of that but It will get something done to it.
 

Turbo6inKY

Short Guy
Chasmat, how long did the swap take you?
I have recently had all the body mounts swapped with new bolts, should be easier.

You have to pretty much dismantle everything ahead of the firewall, drop the gas tank, disconnect the engine harness from the engine, undo the transmission linkage, and I'm sure a few other odds and ends. Then run all the bolts out and lift the body off the frame.

Then swap the frames. You'll probably have some damage to repair on the body from where the frame was bent and tweaked the body mount locations.

It'll take you awhile the first time. It's not difficult, but it's a LOT of parts. Buy lots of baggies and label everything.
 

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
Texas T, that's way rougher than mine was.

One contact had a frame for $1k, haven't heard from him but at that price after dipping, powdercoat and install, I'll highly consider the 4 link.
 

grass doctor

Dream Catcher
make sure has the HS badges on the rear wheel wells and the extra welded plate on rear cross member ..most dont know about a turbo frame being different with this added plate...but not crucial if you are bracing the frame and not worried about correctness ...
 
Top