Boost problem fixed i believe!

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

Well, as for my boost spikes..they are no more. I re-routed the vaccume hoses from the turbo housing straight to the wastegate. Currently I am messing with the rod to get it to 19 psi. I had it at 16, and as i was paying close attention i noticed these things...plz tell if this is normal function of a TR.
1. Spools slower since i re-routed to the wastegate directly.
2. Hits 16 psi...sticks
3. As shift into 2nd, it spikes 1-2 psi then returns to 16psi..(Flutters maybe 1mm around 16 knotch on gauge)
4. hits 3rd gear, spikes again 1-2psi,goes back to 16 and rises to 17-18 at top end pull.
Seems to be running ALOT better since the 15-20 boost spikes, but just makeing sure what i see is normal so i don't break anything

 

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

Well, now i got it set to about 18 psi....but when i first hit it, it goes to 18...then flutters down about 3-4 psi at the top end but returns to 18 before shifting to 2nd where it spikes up the same....i don't think its suppose to do that flutter down 3-4 psi help plz

 

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

Lol...wow my car has some issues..its going to the shop asap. . Hate it when things don't work. Hopefully its a headers leak..but doubt it, i bet its serious.

 

[T4Texas]

Since none of the gurus are chiming in I'll take a shot based on what I've read on the board in the past. Small spikes during the 1-2 and 3-4 shift and boost creep in high gear aren't that uncommon. Installing a heavy duty wastegate actuator (if you don't already have one) and enlarging and porting the wastegate puck hole will probably help with these problems.

If you are going to leave the WG solenoid disconnected I would put a "grainger" valve in the vacuum line between the turbo compressor and the WG actuator. Here's a link to one with an explanation about what it does. Other vendors sell them as well. http://www.rjcracing.com/RJC_Buick_Products/BoostC/boostc.html

There are several other options people here use to control boost, including electronic controllers which vary in price and tend to be expensive. The most common of these is the BstC from Full Throttle Speed. I think it sells for around $150. Most of the people who use it say it is a very nice setup. Some disagree.

You will find that many people here use all these things at the same time (HD WG actuator, enlarged and ported puck hole, grainger valve, electronic boost controller, etc.) Some here even use Blow Off Valves (BOV) in place of the stock wastgate setup. Opinions vary.

Then again, installing a new WG solenoid and reconnecting the hoses to it with the proper "y" fitting (with the right sized orifice cup in it) might clear everything up.

Do a search on here to get more info about any of these things. Try searching for "boost control", "boost spikes", "boost creep", etc.

Boost is what these cars are all about, so controlling boost is an important thing.

Good luck to you, HTH.

 

[Ormand]

Some here even use Blow Off Valves (BOV) in place of the stock wastgate setup

Nope, don't think so. The blow off valves and the wastegate have completely different functions. There are some that use a blowoff valve, IN ADDITION to boost controls, and there are others who will swear that the BOV is a waste of money on a turbo Buick. But I don't think anyone will advocate using a BOV INSTEAD of boost controls. Well, maybe one of the ricers......

 

[T4Texas]

oops

Sorry if I confused anyone. Thanks for pointing out my goof-up Ormand.

 

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

Im going to try to grainger valve..i just got through playing with my boost some more...im going to get a new hose(tighter fitting) and one of those valves. My boost is not spikeing NEAR as much. Im sure the grainger valve will fix my problem...thanks for your help texas!

 

[TurboToy]

basically you have it ran "tuner" style what waste gate do you have? i had a modifed stock and it did the same thing what i had to do is start over, take the waste gate back down to where it will slip over the rod and see what boost it is atand add about 1lb till you get where you want it. runnig it tuner style made my car spool like a dog. later

turbotoy

 

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

I have a stock wastegate.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

What did the shop say the prob was with the engine?

What i would do is.....
Turn the boost down till you have a good scan tool and can see knock retard, scanmaster.

What chip do you currently have in the car?

When i first started out and wanted the cheapest way to get more boost safely was to use the factory solenoid on the valve cover(to pull boost incase of overboost) and put a bleeder inline with the hose leading to the solenoid.
3 way gang valve to bleed off air installed in the hose leading to the solenoid.

Currently i have a electric boost controller, BSTC, works fine can adjust boost inside car at will.
Rjc works great, but my tires suck, spools too fast.

Hmmmm
Your boost is creeping at the top end, hench the 2 psi more in 3rd gear...this is very common.
RJC and BSTC will eliminate these issues.
BW

 

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

Well, i had it working freaking awesome. 19psi..running great. When i was heading home...i thought i try it one more time...for the charm. Got into it noticed knock got out of it. Once more...got into it knock'd more then last time and all of a sudden heard a HUGE noise, and boost had to jump over 27psi...scared me and my knock read(13.0) on the scanmaster...i was for sure i broke something. Pulled in driveway...running fine. Popped hood...found that the hose connnected to the WG came off...is that what caused the massive overboost, the noise, and the knock? I hope so..any help greatly appreciated. Buying zipties ASAP tomorrow...and my gainer valve should be here anyday now. Hopefully when i zipty hoses with gainer valve my car will boost alot more smoothly and run better.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

7/32 hose at NAPA and use the zip ties.
Glad to see ya got a scan tool.

OH HELL YEAH, no boost pressure leading to the wastegate to OPEN the wastegate puck hole and slow the turbo down will make the car overboost.

A simple zip tie would have saved it, do it to your fuel pressure regulator too, top and bottom
BW

 

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

Is that what caused the 13.0 Knock my SM read also? Btw, thank you so much for the advice/help!

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Which valve did you purchase?

You need to find a happy medium between overtightened wastegate arm, and opening the grainger valve.

Tighter rod= more boost but lots of creep
More air out of grainger valve= more boost

I would install the grainger valve closed, just tight enough to where no air will come out, crack it and the air will just start to come out with you blowing into it-
Now set the boost to about 14 psi with the rod, now you can open the bleeder valve to increase the boost, hopefully you wont get much spike.

Make sure you install the FACTORY y fitting the correct way. The odd ball end points toward the WASTEGATE ACTUATOR.

Check to see if you have the correct Y fitting, look inside for the orifice, there are 2 sizes.... small and large, got a few bobby pins?

I cant remember which one is the correct one, i believe its supposed to be the smaller one, ie small bobby pin diameter. Try the search function.

Let me know how it turns out
BW

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Is that what caused the 13.0 Knock my SM read also? Btw, thank you so much for the advice/help!

Yup, overboost= detonation=knock retard=blown headgasket=$$$$

See why i said to use the RJC or the BSTC :biggrin:



BW

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

What chip do you currently have in the car?
AND
What injectors
BW

 

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

Alright one last question, i ahev the small orifice, the Y with the oriface goes to the wastegate correct? And not for sure what chip/injectors get back with you on that tomorrow..recently bought car. Thanks again your being a great help!

I believe stock injecters...and the chip i have...not for sure

 

[DrkBluT-TyPe]

Orifice thing i figured out..im a moron :redface:

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Heres a picture
BW

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

You have to look inside the fitting to find the orifice :biggrin:

Is that what you were referring to?

BW