Boost creep, stock set up??

N

ngnowner

How fast was it officer?
Joined
Jan 26, 2008
Hello, finally got the car running well enough to make some WOT runs. As far as I can tell all is stock with the exception of the fpr and the chip but can't tell who's chip it is. Boost stays at 14lbs until she winds up in 3rd. Slowly rises to 16lbs at which point I get out of the throttle, don't want to break anything. Replaced all the vacuum lines, check valves, boost lines, and tested actuator, no leaks. Is this normal for a stock set up? Could the boost solenoid be bad, is there a way to test it? :confused: Don't have a scanmaster yet but hopefully soon. Thanks, paul
 
Wish I could answer your question, but I'm new to this board, and I'm still learning about these cars. Someone will answer your question. I think you would be heading in the right direction getting a scanmaster.

Steve
 
Paul,
I think your best to keep your foot out of it until you get the scanmaster. At least then you'll be able to check for knock. I would make sure the fuel pressuse is up as well.
New as well and just learning.
 
BTW
You already got the most popular question
Do you have a scanmaster? No
get one and until then stay out of WOT.

This is the # 2 question
After market Boost gauge or stock gauge?
 
Hmmmnn..

ngnowner said:
:confused: Do I have to pay for an answer on this forum :confused:
Click to expand...

Let's see, from your 1st post @ 9+pm, til your 2nd@ 6+am, may not have given some folks time to respond???:rolleyes:

As for a response, has the exh hsg been ported to fit the w/g puck? If not, the boost creep could be there.
As for the gas pedal, [already mentioned], maybe stay off it some, til you get a scan tool, and find out WTF is what.
BASIC TOOL LIST:
Scan tool.
Boost ga.[NOT the dash ga.]
FP gauge, and enough hose to put it on the W/S.
VOM.

As far as "paying"... It's a given, that experience comes with a price.:eek: :D
All the way from:
Poor performance, to blown h/g's, to a membership in the DOTCC.;)
Have fun w/ your new toy. SNEAK up on more HP, and save alot of grief.:cool:
 
Thanks for the reply, working on the scanmaster, Autometer boost gauge (aftermarket).
 
chuck, thanks for the reply, I know I'm an impatient SOB sometimes. Fuel pressure is 55psi @ 5100rpm (1st-2nd shift) , boost gauge is is not stock hopefully it's accurate. It's an autometer gauge' vacuum reading on it matches up to my diag. vacuum gauge. I'm working on the scanmaster. I don't believe the housing has been ported. Would buick have let these cars leave the factory with this problem? Or is a failing part the culprit? I Guess that's my real question here. I don't want to go crazy with mods for speed (yet). Just want to get it working "right", if that's the way it came from the factory, then at least I know nothing is "broken". I saw the RJC bost controller in a few posts about boost creep, that's looks like it would fix the problem and is not too expensive.
 
Well I will try to help.

First looking at your last post are you using the stock LED gauge to tell us how much boost you are running?

If so, those are about as useful at telling you the boost as the lighter is.

Get a good real mechanical boost gause.

Get a good scan tool. (Scanmaster is a good tool)

With all of the items above aside, Yes boost can creep in higher gears.

Load on the drive train changes at higher gears based on speed, wind resistance, TCC lockup, vehicle weight and the list goes on.

These higher loads can cause the boost to creep when using staic boost controllers such as those found on the stock setup.

Recommendations: Stay out of it until you can see what the car is truely doing. Also always start low and creep up on the tune / boost. Since you are not sure what the chip is, go get a good one. This will ensure you are working with a quality tuned chip before hurting something and it becomes more expensive to fix.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi, thanks for the reply, yes that helps allot. Not using the stock boost gauge. I'm using an autometer boost/vacuum gauge, and VDO fuel pressure gauge. I didn't touch the wastegate rod since I bought it but it's adjustable. So I'll turn the boost down (make the rod longer?).
 
Ok...

ngnowner said:
chuck, thanks for the reply, I know I'm an impatient SOB sometimes. Fuel pressure is 55psi @ 5100rpm (1st-2nd shift) , boost gauge is is not stock hopefully it's accurate. It's an autometer gauge' vacuum reading on it matches up to my diag. vacuum gauge. I'm working on the scanmaster. I don't believe the housing has been ported. Would buick have let these cars leave the factory with this problem? Or is a failing part the culprit? I Guess that's my real question here. I don't want to go crazy with mods for speed (yet). Just want to get it working "right", if that's the way it came from the factory, then at least I know nothing is "broken". I saw the RJC bost controller in a few posts about boost creep, that's looks like it would fix the problem and is not too expensive.
Click to expand...

A couple things:
1. The chip could be a problem w/ holding boost.
I'd suggest a TT chip, the Scanmaster you mentioned.
2. What is in the exh system? Stock?, cat?
3. Buick did not, [at least mine didn't] have the problem with the stockers. As I recall, the boost was lowered as the trans shifted thru the gears.

I'd pull the exh housing off the turbo, and check w/g link, to be sure it's not binding. Then you can port it while it's off.
Is the actuator rod threaded, so it can be adjusted? If not, while the turbo is off, that can be done.
There are some "safety" related items that will be needed, regardless of the mods:
A. Hotwire kit.
B. Walbro pump.
I'd do these 2 items ASAP, along w/ the scan tool, etc.
Just my $.02..;) :D
 
ngnowner said:
Hi, thanks for the reply, yes that helps allot. Not using the stock boost gauge. I'm using an autometer boost/vacuum gauge, and VDO fuel pressure gauge. I didn't touch the wastegate rod since I bought it but it's adjustable. So I'll turn the boost down (make the rod longer?).
Click to expand...

shorten the rod for more boost.... lengthing it will decrese boost. If you unhook the actuator rod from the puck you should shorten it to the point that you will have to pull it out about an 1/8th inch to hook it back up. That is a base setting. You can shorten it from there.
 
thanks guys for the replies and your patience, great info. I unhooked the actuator rod, and the lever for the puck rotates freely, no resistance. I'll try to pull the housing tomorrow, looks like I'll need lots of PB blaster. I did lengthen the actuator rod 1 turn which gave me the 1/8" racerex1 spoke of. Chuck, exhaust is a 2.5" dual muffler catback system, converter is hollowed out. Just got a hotwire kit today from fullthrottle, I'll put that in over the weekend. The fuel pump looks like a big job, which I'll get to, but saving for the scanmaster right now. Read some posts on how to port the stock elbow, think I should be able to handle that. Chuck, Turbo68 & machinegun, thanks again.
 
Changing the fuel pump is actually easier than you'd think. The whole job took three hours and I was taking my sweet time. Could be done quicker if you're motivated.

The hardest part of the job for me was bench pressing a tank with 3-4 gallons of gas sloshing around in it back up under the car and then holding it in place with my knees pressing it to the trunk floor while I wrastled the straps back into place.

Get the tank good and dry and it'll be even easier...:biggrin:

You really should do this before you try adding any boost back.

Tim
 
thanks for the advise meanchicken. I've replaced fuel tanks before, the problem is it looks orig. so I know once the tank is down I'll need to replace more than the fuel pump.......lines, connectors, sending unit, etc., the tank doesn't leak but it's pretty rusty, probably should do it all but want the scanmaster first, the tank/pump job looks like it could cost $400 easy when everything is said and done.
 
I was pleasently surprised how easy my fuel tank came down. I have an IROC and I had to drop the exhaust, heat shields, track bar, shocks, passenger rear tire and spring out of the car to TWIST out the tank.

MY GN has 120K on it, sprayed the bolts w/ WD40, came right off, and relplaced all the rubber while I was under there. The entire job took 1 1/2 hrs from start to finish! Should've bought a Buick the first time.
 
I agree with JD. Just did mine 2 weeks ago..pump and hotwire kit was about $150...nothing else needed except a couple hours of your time. A floor jack makes this a breeze...just empty the tank as much as possible before removing.

steve
 
Have you done the spring cleaning? If not, do a search and take care of that FIRST.

Performance will never be right and you will chase your tail looking for problems if you don't have a solid car to begin with.

2nd thing should be SM after that. You can't adjust boost without it. I had a friend who bought a GN and he read that 1 lb of boost=1lb of fuel,,,so he just bumped fuel 1 lb for every lb of boost he added...with 93 octane it beat a rod bearing out 2nd time to the track.

Listen and read is the best plan. The search feature is your friend.:smile:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Fuel PSI not increasing with boost after E85 conv
2
Replies
38
Views
3K
Mr.Spool
M
SteveZ82
Chasing KR still
2 3
Replies
54
Views
6K
SteveZ82
SteveZ82
T
FS: JLT Oil Vapor Catch Can set-up
Replies
6
Views
976
turbohh
T
J
Showing some love to the GN - Time for updates - Looking for Advice
Replies
19
Views
2K
JadeMonkeyStang
J
B
Miss at idle, miss at cruising speed.
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
TurboBuRick
T
Top