Bleeding brakes after Hydro conversion
- Thread starter deboeWE4
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captndave737
Well-Known Member
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- Feb 14, 2006
The plunger should be in more for sure but if youre getting fluid back it shouldnt be a problem.
How are you bleeding them? A line from the bleeder to a can of fluid? Do you have someone helping you? If you're doing it alone and just pumping the btrakes that wont work, every time younrelease the pedal it just sucks air back in. If you have help have them press the pedal to the floor and have them hold it there while you open and then close the bleeder before they release the pedal. Repeat,repeat repeat until all air is out then do the other side.
Or you can get some speed bleeders which have check valves in them and do it your self.
How are you bleeding them? A line from the bleeder to a can of fluid? Do you have someone helping you? If you're doing it alone and just pumping the btrakes that wont work, every time younrelease the pedal it just sucks air back in. If you have help have them press the pedal to the floor and have them hold it there while you open and then close the bleeder before they release the pedal. Repeat,repeat repeat until all air is out then do the other side.
Or you can get some speed bleeders which have check valves in them and do it your self.
captndave737
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- Feb 14, 2006
Also could you say how you bled the master?
I had a buddy helping me and I started off using a mity-vac type tool and when that wasn't working I tried the old fashioned way pumping the brake pedal and holding. I was using speed bleeders even though I had a helping hand to try to make it easy on ourselves. To bleed the master I used the procedure that came with the Cardone unit. It was titled "the new improved bench bleeding procedure." I installed the master in the car and instead of using port adapters the kit came with two port plugs that screw into where the brake lines would go. I filled the reservoir about 3/4 full and jacked the car up to get the master level and pumped the brakes slowly as directed until no more bubbles came out in the reservoir. After pumping an addition 10 times or so to be sure there was no more air I removed one plug and installed the brake line, then did the other. I wrapped up the project a couple hours ago and though the pedal feel isn't quite right, when I mash on the pedal it has no problem locking up the front wheels. Despite the back not being (if they're functioning at all) the car stops surprisingly well. I'm going to park the car until I do the s-10 wheel cylinders but its nice to know the front brakes are performing well. Thanks again for everyone who chimed in, its good to know I'm not alone when I run into problems lol
captndave737
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- Feb 14, 2006
Sounds good. I don't like the "improved" bleeding method for the master cylinder. I used it, got all the air out, and the pedal wasn't right. I removed it and bench bled it. I put my fingers over the ports and had my wife push on the plunger several times. Guess what? There was air in it! It's messy that way but always works.
With the speed bleeders the red sealing compound on the threads can wear out and start sucking air. I had to put teflon tape on mine. You can also open the bleeders and let them gravity bleed over night. Just don't let the MC go dry. Good luck, ive been frustrated with the procedure before.
With the speed bleeders the red sealing compound on the threads can wear out and start sucking air. I had to put teflon tape on mine. You can also open the bleeders and let them gravity bleed over night. Just don't let the MC go dry. Good luck, ive been frustrated with the procedure before.
I started the bleeding process last night and wasn't getting anything out of the bleeders in the rear so I left the hose on the bleeder overnight. When i got back to my buddy's house where the car was I noticed about 9 inches of the tube had fluid it in. I got excited at first thinking I would be good to bleed but that wasn't in the cards. While I'm waiting to do the new wheel cylinders maybe I'll crack open the bleeders and see if they'll gravity bleed. After today's events I'm sure the sealing compound on the threads is all kinds of worn out so I'll be sure to use teflon tape on them next time I mess with them. If I'm not liking how the peal feels when everything is all said n done I just might take the master off and use the bench bleeding technique similar to what worked for you.
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
So when you open the bleeder on the rear, and you press the pedal nothing comes out? I think this is bad. I don't know exactly a wheel cylinder works but there can't be too much between the feed and the bleed. Have you "cracked" or pulled the line off the wheel cylinder to see if fluid comes out when the pedal is depressed?
Did you get fluid out when you pulled the prop valve?
I'm still not sure your m/c is bled either. I bled mine on the car and it took a while. Lots of little bubbles we just kept cycling the pedal then cycled it some more.
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Did you get fluid out when you pulled the prop valve?
I'm still not sure your m/c is bled either. I bled mine on the car and it took a while. Lots of little bubbles we just kept cycling the pedal then cycled it some more.
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- May 28, 2001
Take the bleed screws out, and clean the dirt/crud out of them.
Sorry I've been out of town since Thurs night so I haven't messed with car since then. When I cracked the lines at the prop valve and saw there was fluid getting to it, I proceeded to crack the lines at each individual wheel.
When pressing the brake I did get fluid out of the lines so its making it to the drum. Like you said there isn't much between the line and the bleeder so I assume it has to be the wheel cylinder that is bad.
I drove it around a good bit before I left Thurs and I gotta say the brakes were working quite well (at least the fronts were). As soon as I get back Sat I'll try removing the bleeders again and cleaning them up, putting Teflon tape on the threads, and bleeding once again. If that doesn't work I'll try gravity bleeding over night. Last resort I'll be picking up the S-10 wheel cylinders sometime next week.
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When pressing the brake I did get fluid out of the lines so its making it to the drum. Like you said there isn't much between the line and the bleeder so I assume it has to be the wheel cylinder that is bad.
I drove it around a good bit before I left Thurs and I gotta say the brakes were working quite well (at least the fronts were). As soon as I get back Sat I'll try removing the bleeders again and cleaning them up, putting Teflon tape on the threads, and bleeding once again. If that doesn't work I'll try gravity bleeding over night. Last resort I'll be picking up the S-10 wheel cylinders sometime next week.
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- May 28, 2001
"putting Teflon tape on the threads,".. The threads do not make the seal. The end of the bleeder screw does that. Teflon tape is of no use.
" If that doesn't work I'll try gravity bleeding over night". If the bleed screws are not clear of crud, the "gravity" bleed is of no value.
" If that doesn't work I'll try gravity bleeding over night". If the bleed screws are not clear of crud, the "gravity" bleed is of no value.
captndave737
Well-Known Member
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- Feb 14, 2006
We're talking about "speed bleeders" and the threads have to seal and keep air from coming in when the bleeder is backed out 1/2 turn and if the sealing compound on the threads is worn you ABSOLUTELY DO need teflon tape. The end of the screw seals when its closed.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Didn't see "speed bleeders" mentioned...
captndave737
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2006
Easy to miss. It's in post 24 of this thread.
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