Big Tire Bump Steer

blacksix

Member
Joined
May 15, 2002
After bolting on some 245/45R17 rubber my 86 T-Type bump steers and follows the road ruts BAD. All the bushings are pretty new and the alignment is set to factory-type specs with 2.5-3 degress caster. Tracking is OK on flat roads but not great. This thing is so flighty around town I'm afraid to let the wife drive it. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
 
After bolting on some 245/45R17 rubber my 86 T-Type bump steers and follows the road ruts BAD. All the bushings are pretty new and the alignment is set to factory-type specs with 2.5-3 degress caster. Tracking is OK on flat roads but not great. This thing is so flighty around town I'm afraid to let the wife drive it. Is there anything I can do to fix this?

What's the camber set at? Tires have no effect on bump steer... which is change in toe vs. suspension travel... you probably have too much neg. camber...
 
0.23 LH, 0.16 RH. Toe is 0.07/0.08".

Maybe I'm describing it wrong. What's the difference between bump steer and the car being pulled all over the place from the crowns in the road from semis and traffic?
 
double check the air pressure

have you aligned it AFTER the new tires and rims?
some tires are worse than others about following street ruts .
 
Did a chain store align the car? Did they check the steering? Is there any slack you feel in the steering wheel?
 
Reliable private shop. All good, components not brand new but not worn. Why, do the chain stores suck?
 
A wider tire will track the road better but will also grab the groves in the road more. Caster set higher will eliminate some of it but the problem will persist with a wider tire. You need a good alignment tech that knows what he's doing to be able to help you.
 
Is enough caster & camber possible with factor arms and shims, or will I need adjustable control arms or something? Eventually I'd like to go with the 12" brake kit and associated spindles etc but budget is tight right now.
 
my car is similar, and it got worse with new tires (went from cheapo to good)

I'm running 16" GTA's with 245/50-16 on the front.

I went to the alignment shop with the results of my searching on here.

"Lots of caster, please." They had to send a kid out for more shims....

It seems with the extra caster, that the cross-caster (difference in caster from one side to the other) is making the car drift too much. I believe the cross caster is intended to make the car run straight on crowned roads. With lots of total caster, the cross caster works too well and the car never goes straight.

I want to get back into an alignment shop and play with reducing or eliminating the cross caster and play with toe settings. There should be a way to get the car to drive neutrally....

Some groove following is ok, but the current condition of the car is annoying....

Bob

(any alignment techs on here?)
 
thats strange when I put on my 17's ( same size as above ) my steering was TONS better than it was stock - night and day difference in handling for me and that was with OLD components - can't wait to get this on the road with the new SPC uppers and tubular lowers + new BJ's!! wish I could be more help but something isn't making sense to me...
 
I used to be an alignment tech way back when I was in engineering school... I would want at least 5, preferably 6-7 deg POS caster both sides, and you want about 1/4-1/2 deg NEGATIVE camber both sides, with about 1/8 deg (if that, just a tad) less neg on the left to keep it going straight on crowned roads when you let go of the wheel... set the toe at 1/16" in both sides for a total of 1/8" IN.... that should put it as good as it's gonna' get.... and make the tires wear good :)

Bob, it's the cross CAMBER that makes it go straight on roads leaning right... the caster is more a dynamic setting that affects the self centering/return to center, while the camber is static with respect to pull on a perfectly smooth road with no steering input...
 
After bolting on some 245/45R17 rubber my 86 T-Type bump steers and follows the road ruts BAD. All the bushings are pretty new and the alignment is set to factory-type specs with 2.5-3 degress caster. Tracking is OK on flat roads but not great. This thing is so flighty around town I'm afraid to let the wife drive it. Is there anything I can do to fix this?

Blacksix,

I fought this problem for years and ended up with the front suspension in my signature trying to eliminate the issue. Even after everything I did to it the front end, it still "tramlined" like you are talking about.

Not until I put new tires on the front of the car did the problem go away. I replaced my directional Yokohama A520's with assymetrical Vredestein Sessentas and the problem was solved.

Company website: Vredestein

Available from: Group A Wheels (Toyo Tires Kumho Sumitomo Vredestein ROH Wheels Porsche BMW Mustang GTO NSX - GroupA Wheels) and Performance Plus Tire (Custom Tires, Custom Wheels, and Parts and Accessories for your Antique, Hot Rod, and Muscle Car from Performance Plus Tire).

They have a very interesting tread pattern, and are an asymmetrical tread design so you can rotate the tires side to side.

With the Vredestein Sessentas it drives nice and straight even when the road is grooved pretty bad. The ride of my car also improved significantly with these tires.

If you haven't heard of Vredesteins, they are a Dutch tire company. They are a highly rated tire company in Europe.

64180d1232206257-best-17-tires-51645a33-59d0-428e-a309-133784ac0b7606_sessanta_detail_3-site.jpg


So, what kind of tire did you put on the front? As cruzn57 noted above, some tires are worse than others. That might be a bigger issue than you realize. If you post the type/model of tire, perhaps someone can let you know their experience with the same tire.

Rob
 
Bigger tires shouldn't effect 'bump steer'. You say your car follows ruts in the road, that is also NOT caused by bump steer but is caused by having wide tires. You really notice this on a motorcycle with a wide rear tire (choppers, or so I've been told).

Bump steer only happens when the front springs are loaded (compressed) such as under braking.


If it's that bad than the allignment shop hasn't done their job properly. They should have set the caster, camber, and tow to spec and it shouldn't pull either way while suspension is loaded or unloaded.
 
It must be Yokohama I out a set on my truck and it feels the same way as your car my wife compares it to what it feels like when the bearings in the hubs go bad in the front. I even jacked the front end up and checked to be sure I didn’t have a bad hub.
 
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