BHJ Balancer

[jimmymack87gn]

Bought a BHJ balancer some time ago. Was supposed to be cleasranced to fit. Went to install it yesterday & found out it doesn't fit. My question is should it slide right on like a production balancer or should there be a "press fit". Balancer i.d. is 1.370, crank snout is 1.372. Just going to get it fixed locally as I'm ready to get this thing back runnung.

 

[proptop]

Should be a slight press fit.
Bob

 

[we4Mateo]

The stock ones are supposed to be pretty tight. You may have a crack in your stock one in the keyway area if it slides right off. My BHJ def went on pretty hard; especially when compared to how easy the stock one came off. It should be difficult, but I don't think you need a press.

 

[fastblackracing]

2 thousandths is a lot of press fit on that size shaft I would open it up to .0006 -.001 press fit and a balancer installer tool is nice to have for these, the stock ones slide on and rely on the big bolt to hold them tight. A lil blue loctite and the impact wrench work good to tighten it.

 

[coach]

2 thousandths is a lot of press fit on that size shaft I would open it up to .0006 -.001 press fit and a balancer installer tool is nice to have for these, the stock ones slide on and rely on the big bolt to hold them tight. A lil blue loctite and the impact wrench work good to tighten it.

I agree... 0.002 is too tight. 0.001 should work great.

 

[bison]

.0005 is plenty. .001 is a heavy press fit. Much more and the components will gall.

 

[Nick Micale]

OK, all you guys with a BHJ or TA steel balancer, I am going to give you an early "Christmas present" and give away a secret for a very easy method we have used for years to install these units that MUST have a press fit on the crank to do their job properly! I used to fight with the problematic balancer installation tool before we found this much better way.

The first thing to do is use piece of emory cloth on the bore of the balancer to remove any burrs or sharp edges.

Then use a hand-held propane torch and heat around the end of the shaft of the balancer for just a few minutes, and it will just slide in place.

Only other "tool" needed is a pair of gloves to finish the job sliding it on the crank.

After working on a few thousand TR's over 25 years, I have learned a few things not in the shop manual or on instruction sheets!

 

[coach]

OK, all you guys with a BHJ or TA steel balancer, I am going to give you an early "Christmas present" and give away a secret for a very easy method we have used for years to install these units that MUST have a press fit on the crank to do their job properly! I used to fight with the problematic balancer installation tool before we found this much better way.

The first thing to do is use piece of emory cloth on the bore of the balancer to remove any burrs or sharp edges.

Then use a hand-held propane torch and heat around the end of the shaft of the balancer for just a few minutes, and it will just slide in place.

Only other "tool" needed is a pair of gloves to finish the job sliding it on the crank.

After working on a few thousand TR's over 25 years, I have learned a few things not in the shop manual or on instruction sheets!

Heat shrink....DAMN!!! In all my years of doing this shit, I have heat shrunk many items, but never did it to a crank snout/ balancer install.
I know that we keep cans of the electronic "freeze spray" handy to shrink steel to do the same thing. Sometimes heat scares us in certain situations.

Thanks Nick.

 

[forzfed]

.0005 is plenty. .001 is a heavy press fit. Much more and the components will gall.

BHJ states it should have a 0.001/0.0015 press fit.

 

[bison]

BHJ states it should have a 0.001/0.0015 press fit.

.0015 is really tight. I don't see it coming apart without galling.

 

[forzfed]

.0015 is really tight. I don't see it coming apart without galling.

I hear you. I'm just saying that is what they state on their instructions.

 

[coach]

.0015 is really tight. I don't see it coming apart without galling.

I'm with you Brian. 0.001 would be tops for me.

 

[ek02]

Damn good idea Nick. I have been using a long bolt and an old A/C clutch installation bearing after honing the balancer out with emory cloth on a split shaft porting tool. Getting the key lined up is critical if you are pressing it on. Heating it and sliding it on has got to be easier as long as you don't get carried away and melt the front seal.

 

[norbs]

Before you waste your time to press it on, make sure the crank reluctor ring is in the right spot.....mine is out 6-7 degrees...............

 

[jimmymack87gn]

Thanks guys, I may follow Bison's advice on this one, makes the most sense to me.

 

[pmoore4321]

View attachment 183968 Before you waste your time to press it on, make sure the crank reluctor ring is in the right spot.....mine is out 6-7 degrees...............

Were both pics taken at TDC? How did you correct the problem?

 

[norbs]

Were both pics taken at TDC? How did you correct the problem?

Yes both are exactly at TDC, I can compensate on the XFI up to 9 degrees being out, so I am OK.

 

[pmoore4321]

I guess that would have you chasing your tail if it wasn't noticed. Is it possible to heat the wheel and turn it slightly on the balancer? I remember a thread about verifying the wheel position, but I can't seem to find it.

 

[charlief1]

View attachment 183968 Before you waste your time to press it on, make sure the crank reluctor ring is in the right spot.....mine is out 6-7 degrees...............

Well since you're 6-7 degrees out it doesn't suprise me Norbs. Off tomorrow if you or Paul feel like calling and catching up.