best oil
- Thread starter CHANCE
- Start date
RKHiPerformance
Turbocharged Sex Cylinder
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2003
We use Rotella 15/40 in all cars with flat-tappet camshafts...
I've been a pushing the idea of always using a decent oil but I've never heard of this rotella 15/45? Is this some kind of new Sythetic oil? As for me, I use Mobile one in my Wife's Tahoe and the Harley. Amsoil is always a good choice as well as Royal Purple. If you can't aford the coin for Synthitic oils, use stuff like Castroil. Just don't use crap like Penzoil or Qaker state etc. I'm probaly going to run plain Castroil in the Buick for the time being.
The word is that with new diesel emissions regs coming in Jan 07, diesel oils like Rotella and Delo are to get significant reductions in EP lubes like ZDDP (zinc) MDS (moly). Supposedly other EP lubricants have been substituted to compensate, but as to how they'll prove out in our little world I have no idea.
I think alot of machine shops like to blame other things other than what really was/is a mechanical problem, but that's just my opinion. I'm an Amsoil rep and have been using Amsoil for years. I have it in my GN with a block that has 3,100 miles on it and it runs like a top. The fact that one cam was wiped on Amsoil probably had absolutely nothing to do with the oil, but oh well. I guess when my flat tappet has many more miles on it while using Amsoil, it will be further proof that it was a mechanical problem and not chemical.
I used Castrol GTX to break it in and then Mobil 1 and a lifter was still noisy. I just switched to Amsoil 10W40 High Performance oil and the lifter is dead silent. Could be a coincidence, but the fact is, it's quiet now. I have enough literature and information about Amsoil to last a lifetime, plus I speak to one of the chemical engineers on occasion.
I used Castrol GTX to break it in and then Mobil 1 and a lifter was still noisy. I just switched to Amsoil 10W40 High Performance oil and the lifter is dead silent. Could be a coincidence, but the fact is, it's quiet now. I have enough literature and information about Amsoil to last a lifetime, plus I speak to one of the chemical engineers on occasion.
Gary Wells
White turbo Buick trailer park trash
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2002
There have been some very good discussions on all of the Buick boards in the last several months relating to the issue of oils, GMS supplement, supplements in general, zinc, moly, & what oils currently contain zinc & moly.
Try the key words EOS or GM EOS. The oil forum has some very good info also.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
Try the key words EOS or GM EOS. The oil forum has some very good info also.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
lpaulabbott said:
Thanks :biggrin:
I would like to see some kinda data. You also got a poll on how many people whos lost a cam because of this vs those of us loosing a cam to basic oil? I for one have lost a cam to bad oil...it's called detergant based oils. These oils will build up a sludge inside you motor and sooner or later will eat a cam shaft. This is why I want use Oils like Penzoil or qaker state. You should always use a syntheitc or Vegi based oil. My last turbocharged car had over 120k and I drove it all over Texas using Castroil GTX.
edited: I'm looking up this oil and posting what I find...
Re: Diesel Mechanic said not to use Rotella-T?
#395916 - 04/28/01 07:18 PM
This will starts some trouble, I was in a fleet management meeting seval months ago held by a company that was in no way affiliated with any oil companies. I have also heard this from other Ford sources and a engine supplier of mine who is an OEM rebuilder for Cat, Navistar, Cummings, and Detroit. They have all told me that same thing. The foaming and high sling rate of the Rotella T was not the best for the power stroke. What they were finding is the camshaft lobs are getting scared up because the oil is running of the needle bearings of the roller lifters leaving them dry. So when you start you truck up the bearings are dry causing the roller to stick. Take this for what is worth and keeping using what you want do not sell oil nor do I care what you use I am just sharing something I have seen and heard.
Well I got bored and read up on this issue for the last hour. The problems seems to be more around cam break-ins and prossibaly envolving more aftermarket XE cams...these cams seems to be breaking some basic cam design rules. Almost everything I've read thus fair suggest breaking in a flat tappit cam with EOS and deisel oil. There is also a debate about the on going emessions the deisel guys are starting to get in 2007 as to wether or not even the Deisel oils will be any good. This issue doesn't seem to be effecting Roller cams. I know GM started using Rollers in the mid 80's but I'm guessing by peoples fears that they didn't make it into the GN/T-types. ATM, I'm not sure where I stand on this no zinc issue. My old turbocar had a Flat tappit cam with over 120k using Castrol GTX, I removed it for a Roller around 123k I believe. The cam was in great shape, I only did it to improve throttle responce and power. My Buick probaly has a flat tappit cam ( 208/208) and running off of some cheap oil. I'll replace it with Castrol GTX once I get teh time to do it. The car doesn't drive much due to a gear box slipping but the motor has 10k on rebuild. And the motors sounds and feels pretty dang healthy. I guess I'll see what happens.
Scott89TTA
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
I have been running Mobil 1 10w30 in all my cars for many years. Just recently installed 100# valve springs in the TTA from Johns Performance where John told me to only run Racing Oil from now on do to street oil no longer having enough Zinc & Phosphorous to adequately protect the cam & lifter surface. I added a 4oz. bottle of GM Camshaft & Lifter Prelube (P/N 12345501) to get the Zinc & Phosphorous back in for cam & lifter surface protection after reading a recent article from HotRod Mag. Next oil change I'll probably switch to one of the Racing oils...maybe Amsoil? Just not sure if I should change from 10W30 to 10W40 or ?
A lot of talk about this in the TTA Tech Section under a recent "Valve Springs" post...about half way down the post http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195385 and the article from HRM here http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/lifters.htm about oil, cams and lifters.
-Scott
A lot of talk about this in the TTA Tech Section under a recent "Valve Springs" post...about half way down the post http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195385 and the article from HRM here http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/lifters.htm about oil, cams and lifters.
-Scott
This is all I plan to run in the GN going forward. If it continues to run this smooth from 3,100 miles, I don't forsee any problems going forward with the cam. Did anyone post approximately how many miles it was before the cam problems revealed themselves?
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx
