Best Aftermarket Rearend

CTX-SLPR

Active Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2004
Howdy,

I'm looking to replace the rearend on my 65 Riv since its next to impossible to find posi's and 3.42's for them and a far bigger problem is the lack of disc brakes on them. Looking around I've seen Ford 8"s, 9"s, and 8.8s, GM 12-bolts, Dana 60s, and 44s. Most of them have 9' housing ends so it pretty much standardizes brakes. I'm thinking Strange S-60 (Dana 60 clone), Dana 44, or a Ford 8.8 all with 9" ends. What't the opinion around here as to the best rearend for a street driven, 4000lb, 600hp, with the stock 3 link suspension? I'm looking for a balance of cost, weight, and efficiency.

Thanks,
 
The problem you will encounter with a rear axle swap on that car is finding a true bolt in rear unless you plan on building your own jig and cutting the brackets off your original rear and welding them to the replacement. From my experience with the 58-64 full size Chevys, you can make a 65-70 12 bolt fit with some work. I am not sure about the width differences, but I do know it was a fairly popular swap with the guys who abused their early Impalas.
From memory, the 63-65 Riv's are set up like the 58-70 full size cars with 2 lower control arms, 1 upper control arm and a panhard bar/track locator. If you plan on launching the car hard on slicks, then I would highly advice adding and additional upper control arm to help distribute the load. Its relatively easy to do on those cars since the uppers are not angled as the 64-88 A/G bodies were.
If you are starting from scratch, then my recommendation would be a Ford 9" as they are moderate weight (heavier than Ford 8.8, Chevy 12 bolt and lighter than the Dana 60). You can buy anything under the sun for them and now you can get them built with a GM style 4 bolt flange that accepts the Ford bearings so you can use a GM style brake set up. I wouldnt recommend using Ford rear brake set ups as you would have to deal with the issues of bolt pattern differences.
If you must have rear discs and have a 4 3/4 bolt circle, then look at the 98-2002 F body rear discs. Very large rotors, nice aluminum calipers with a divorced parking brake assembly and very light. If using the 5" bolt circle then use the 94-96 b body rear brakes as they are very similar with the exception of bolt circle.
 
Well I don't plan on running slicks or even drag radials currently, just high performance all season tires. I'm just going to get stockton wheel to widen my factory rear wheels and rechrome them. It does have the 2 lower control arms, single upper control arm and a panhard rod. I want to keep the setup since unless I'm totally confused its still used by NASCAR and seem to work well for both cornering and straightline. I was planning on useing the B-body rear brake setup and I was more refering to the housing end type with the possitively retained bearings more than the bolt pattern to attach brakes as I would want to keep it GM. The big thing I have against the 9" is its ineffeciency, though I don't know if the Dana 60 is any better. I know the 12 bolt/8.8 design is more effecient but I'm not sure if the case can be made to work with the 3 link setup since the upper control arm comes right off the pumpkin.

Oh well, thanks for the advice,
 
I have a Chevy 12-bolt rear end on my 87 Turbo-T. It is a full custom bolt in I ordered from Moser. I was able to choose options like which differential, add Willwood disc brakes, etc.
 
Thats nice that it bolts right in to a G-body Regal..... but a 63-65 Riviera doesn't share anything as far as body dimentions with other GM cars muchless another Buick. Totally different rear suspention, more akin to the GNX torque arm setup than the Sachell link (angled 4 link) of the regular G-bodies. Already talked to Strange, they don't make anything for a 65 Riv so I think I'll go 9" from currie and just have someone TIG weld the brackets on so they don't warp the tube. either that or I'm going to partially redesign the rear suspention for longer control arms and more tire clearance.

Thanks,
 
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