Battery keeps dying
- Thread starter Slowhawk
- Start date
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Fan delay relay, hood light, trunk light, interior lights, glove box light.
Added equipment or wiring.
Easiest test is with a test bulb in series with the positive battery cable that you take off the battery.
Lamp will glow until you pull the fuse that is causing the current draw then it will go very dim or out completely.
If it's an intermittant problem it takes more work to find it.
An ampere/current meter can be substituted for the bulb in series with the battery cable.
Make sure all the doors are closed and hood light is disconneted to simulate NO draw or load on the battery while doing an amperage draw test.
Added equipment or wiring.
Easiest test is with a test bulb in series with the positive battery cable that you take off the battery.
Lamp will glow until you pull the fuse that is causing the current draw then it will go very dim or out completely.
If it's an intermittant problem it takes more work to find it.
An ampere/current meter can be substituted for the bulb in series with the battery cable.
Make sure all the doors are closed and hood light is disconneted to simulate NO draw or load on the battery while doing an amperage draw test.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I use an ammeter, I like to know what the draw in amperes or milliamperes is. 
Using a meter you start on the 10A scale and work your way down in scales until the meter moves and you can read the draw, digital meters are easier to use however with less scale changes.
Bulb is hard to tell exactly what the draw is, but if it lights up bright you gots troubles, or you left the trunk or door open doing the test.
Using a meter you start on the 10A scale and work your way down in scales until the meter moves and you can read the draw, digital meters are easier to use however with less scale changes.
Bulb is hard to tell exactly what the draw is, but if it lights up bright you gots troubles, or you left the trunk or door open doing the test.
I found a few problems.
1 -the interior light's near the feet were staying on.
2- The power brake fuse was drawing alot.I pulled it since I run a vacuum brake now.
Got the draw from 2a down to 3ma now.Just have to fix the interior light's,probly a bad door switch.
Thanks guy's.
1 -the interior light's near the feet were staying on.
2- The power brake fuse was drawing alot.I pulled it since I run a vacuum brake now.
Got the draw from 2a down to 3ma now.Just have to fix the interior light's,probly a bad door switch.
Thanks guy's.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Power brake fuse runs the fan delay relay.
Probably the culprit.
Might want to pull the connectors off the relay (large one with two connectors on the drivers side) and test it alone and put the fuse back in.
But looking at the diagram that's the only two circuits on that fuse so I guess it's got to be the delay relay unless the connector for the brake is slightly shorting to ground causing some draw, about a million to one shot however.
Either a bad door switch or the wire itself is shorting to ground on a screw somewhere since they are grounding switches.
Probably the culprit.
Might want to pull the connectors off the relay (large one with two connectors on the drivers side) and test it alone and put the fuse back in.
But looking at the diagram that's the only two circuits on that fuse so I guess it's got to be the delay relay unless the connector for the brake is slightly shorting to ground causing some draw, about a million to one shot however.
Either a bad door switch or the wire itself is shorting to ground on a screw somewhere since they are grounding switches.
