ATR joint leak-repair

[Martin U]

Anyone know if I can have the-ball & socket- type joint on a set of ATR headers & up-pipe reformed? Over the years I must have tightened the down to much and to often. I'm seeing carbon tracks and can now feel & hear a leak.
Ball & socket is a guess at what that joint is called. A male and female anyway with two bolts on steel plates.
Mart

 

[Just a Six??]

Is it so bad you cant use high heat silicone on it? I had one egg shaped a bit & exhaust place put it on the machine so its at least round.

 

[Martin U]

I think I tried the copper spray on stuff, just blew out. So muffler shops might have something? I was going to pull it tomorrow and take a real close look. Ill be watching for the egg shape deformation.

 

[chopped39]

When I worked for midas we had an adapter for the bender that would make that ball on straight tubing to make a ball flange. They might be able to use that adapter to return yours back to its original shape. tell them to go real slow.headers should be stainless and the stainless will crack if they get crazy on the controls. maybe warm it a little

 

[Martin U]

The easy way "I think" would be to do the female end on the up-pipe. I would have to believe that is the less ridged than the male side.
Midas only had the one side HMMM.. Plus the male side is on the headers and I sure don't want to try and get them on or off.
You guys did figure this is on a hot-air. Someone had to flair that female end, I just need to find out how. I might try spotting it in as a last resort.
Marty

 

[Martin U]

could I weld a v-band on?

 

[Just a Six??]

Copper spray wont work. High heat silicone. A light thin bead & let it set 20 mins & then try to get it on with one straight shot. Let cure a day & slowly add some heat now & then. Idle for a while until hot & shut off. Wait until cool or next day & try it out.

 

[Martin U]

Excellent! Any brand preference?