At the track, cannot get MTs to hook at all**UPDATE I was not spinning , having other problems.

I can do the IC over the winter. I have a K&N filter in the stock housing with the bottom of the housing opened up to breathe better. The base 1/2 timing is 24, 3/4 is 22. I pulled about 10% fuel on the 1st gear wot. Stock 3.42 gears. No spin I will try to post a video.
 
12lbs boost launch on a 12inch converter is highly unlikely. Once you hook up data logger it should tell you what is going on.I run a te44on a bone stock long block .flat tapped cam 42lbs injectors..3200.stall 9.5 converter, factory stock valve springs.consistent 7:30/7.40 .1/8 mile with a 30by9 radial slick..60 ft. 1.55 to 1.62. No alkyl.straight 110 octane. In the mean time check for vacuum leaks and get Dusty to build you a 9.5 converter. He's the go to guy in that department.

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It is hard to monitor everything without a data logger so I am looking forward to seeing the results of that. But on that last pass I really watched the boost gauge. I thought it seemed unlikely too. But it was at 12 then I let off the brake and mash the gas and it just takes off real easy. Not really a bog, but not a hard launch either. I was wondering if it's the converter causing this, or the fuel/timing or maybe both.
 
the car is not making power.it doesn't hit the tire hard at all from start to finish.time to look at things like valve springs, compression test,and tune.you must go down the track with 0 kr.
 
the car is not making power.it doesn't hit the tire hard at all from start to finish.time to look at things like valve springs, compression test,and tune.you must go down the track with 0 kr.

That's why I said he's in a pickle. Because in my mind, if everything's doing what it's supposed to be doing, a 12 psi launch would yield a nice short time with those big ass tires and fresh vht. That's why I suggested springs, cam, timing, kr, converter worn out or hurt from locking it, spinning the rims, etc etc. It's something power wise, not necessarily suspension wise. I know of bone stock factory cars back in '87 with 28 inch tires, race gas, crushed FPRs and the boost turned up to 20 psi running 12.30's.
 
powerwise its down but it could be a few things.time to look around the tune being one of them
 
I was doing some searches to see what others are running with this combo. I saw a few cars with TA49/ but having 10" or 9.5" converters, 3" dp, bigger intercoolers and running 111- 114 mph. 1.6/1.7/1.8 60 foot time. I don't think I'm that far off but I agree something is not right.

The valvesprings are new I put them in about 6 months ago. I will check compression. Could it be exhaust leaks? But would it be able to spool up to 12 psi on the brake with leaks?

I guess I won't know much about the tune until I get the powerlogger and wideband installed.
 
need to look at the tune.the kr is no good I haven't pushed things on the e85 on a buick so not sure you have what you need fuelwise.there is a major difference in a 108mph car and a 114mph car powerwise that will show throughout the run.do the comp test and look at things you can still spool up with an exhaust leak.
 
If your boost gauge is showing 12 psi the second you take your foot off the brake, you're going to get a great short time if everything else is right. Key word:right.
As far as the MPH at the big end, a boost leak could lower speed eventually. Do this. Go on a freeway at night, and find a deserted portion. Slow down closest to zero that you can on the on ramp and then hit it out of the hole as hard as you can without spinning out. Look at your boost when you're around 105 or so, is it at the psi you set your wastegate at? If it is, it's not boost. Probably like Spool said, tune, compression, or a hurt converter. Or some cam lobes going flat. I surely hope that's not it though. It can be measured.
 
My buddy's buick I helped with when he had ta49 I got him to 60 ft the car 1.52 off ft brake at 5/6 lbs of boost car left hard ! Pulled front driver tire off the ground a lil bit , with 16x8 GNX wheels all the the way around with M/T drag radials , all stock suspension n factory sway bars . Just qa1 single adj shocks at all four corners n I set shock adj . On c16 TT Eric chip and only 20 lbs of boost . Car went 11.8 at 114 stock 90,000 mile short block . Need to go over your whole combo .
 
If the converter is not matched properly to the turbo, you are wasting your time looking elsewhere. :)
Nick is right . Nick put me in the right direction over a year ago with my combo . My 235 ci ported irons with 70 hpq n 9.5 billet converter I got from my buddy turbo twister on the board with new TA headers leaves hard as hell on the street at 4,000/4500 Trans brake launches . I leave at 16/20 lbs on the street n dead hooks . My converter is a n/l 18/19 stator for my th400 . Pulls like a freight train .
 
need to look at the tune.the kr is no good I haven't pushed things on the e85 on a buick so not sure you have what you need fuelwise.there is a major difference in a 108mph car and a 114mph car powerwise that will show throughout the run.do the comp test and look at things you can still spool up with an exhaust leak.

Yes I know 108 is bad but on the other runs with no KR it was 110 mph, and I also don't have the advantage of a bigger downpipe and intercooler. Not sure about the tune at all its a brand new chip and first time at the track with this chip. Only data I have was from the scanmaster 6.3 kr, 761 mv, 97 mph. I will be checking compression and for exhaust leaks.

If your boost gauge is showing 12 psi the second you take your foot off the brake, you're going to get a great short time if everything else is right. Key word:right.
As far as the MPH at the big end, a boost leak could lower speed eventually. Do this. Go on a freeway at night, and find a deserted portion. Slow down closest to zero that you can on the on ramp and then hit it out of the hole as hard as you can without spinning out. Look at your boost when you're around 105 or so, is it at the psi you set your wastegate at? If it is, it's not boost. Probably like Spool said, tune, compression, or a hurt converter. Or some cam lobes going flat. I surely hope that's not it though. It can be measured.

It was 26 psi at the end of the run right before I let off. The engine is only 21,000 orig miles so I would hope no problems with the cam but I guess anything is possible. Nothing else leading me to think it's an internal problem it runs great otherwise.

And the converter is pretty new, maybe 3000 miles on it.

I was reading over what Bison told me when I bought the turbo and he recommended 2200-2400 @ 0 psi for the converter. I'm at 2200. I was hoping this converter would work but it's not looking great right now.
 
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I don't think a down pipe is hurting your performance at this point. I would think a dut neck would help spool. Make sure your puck is covering the wastegate hole on the exhaust housing as bison mentioned. Get your fuel and timing dialed in. The stock intake hose may hamper your performance also from a spool up stand point. Having a wideband and your powerlogger hooked up is the best way to go for now. I went 12.5s on a very stock Buick with a dut neck, alky, maft pro, got rid of the factory intake hose with a ported stock compressor housing, went 12.3s. This was on a 100K car. The stock down pipe is not a limiting factor till your deep in the 11s. Unless something else is off, I think you should work on the tune, with that turbo, I think you should see high 11s with out changing any parts unless something is broken. As Razor always recommends, work on dialing in on point at a time. Get your car to mile per hour, then work on short times.
 
Our cars are very similar.
I've had mine on track once and the best et was 12.4 and mph was 109-111.
I have 26 inch nittos and was spinning bad with zero to 1 psi launches with 2.0 to 2.2 60 foots best was a 1.94 on mt 12.4 shifting to od at about the 1000 ft mark. Due to exceeding 5200 rpm by my chips shift light.
 
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