Are there any bushings to remove on rear UCA/LCA/swaybar replacements

granatl

TRCM Author
Joined
May 25, 2001
I have the HRParts n Stuff rear setup coming soon. Knowing very little about the rear suspension, I bought the bushing removal tool as well. Do I even need the tool if I'm having the control arms and sway bar in the rear replaced?
 
You will be fine. The control arms come with all the bushings you will need. The bushing tool is used for the two bushings on the rear end. It pushes the bushings out of the ear and install the new ones in the ears. You will need to torque the new arms to factory specs and use some regular grease to lube the bushings. Since your doing all of this you could also replace the shocks and rear springs at the same time.
 
Make sure the suspension is loaded before you tighten anything. Replace the bushings in the housing while you have the tool and then sell the tool on here. It will sell pretty quick. Good luck with the install.
 
The setup is to arrive today and I plan on taking it to a mechanic-friend that I know. Can someone share the loaded-weight bolt torque values with me to relay to him?
 
I believe it was 75 or 80lbs for the control arm bolts.
 
If you use the pull/install tool do NOT use an air ratchet it will bend the all thread rod. Put some oil on the torrington bearing on the tool as well. Hand ratchet do a lil at a time spray teh bushing with some PB Blaster and that will help facilitate removal as well
 
Adding/removing the old bushings in the rabbit ears is a major PITA without that tool. Make sure your buddy gets that tool.
 
Adding/removing the old bushings in the rabbit ears is a major PITA without that tool. Make sure your buddy gets that tool.

X2 I have seen the ears broken off the housing from someone hitting it with a hammer:eek:
 
I spoke with him late today. I guess the process has been far more difficult than I thought. Having never done suspension work like that on the rear (I have done springs and shocks), I naively thought about a 5 hour job. Sounds more like it has taken them like 12 hours. This is gonna hurt. I don't have the specifics yet, but I'm wondering if my old school Bowling Green Customs catback interfered or WTH happened? He's giving me a discount and all, but it's still costing something around $700 in labor (etc.)
I sure hope this setup is worth it!
From other posts that I've read, sounds like I want to do the jounce bars next; but since I have a FMIC, I can't buy the junkyard ones.
I do appreciate all the feedback! We opened the boxes after I saw the post about not using an air ratchet. I hope there were instructions in the bag for the tool.
 
It shouldn't be that bad Jack, wonder what specifically is the issue? I always do one control arm at a time. If you take all of them off the rear end can be difficult to manhandle.
 
Per Mitchell to replace all the rear suspension bushings is 3 hours. It really isn't that hard a job and to do the ones on the axle I use a ball joint press. 1.4 hours for the uppers and 1.6 hours for the lowers. This is for all the bushing in the rear suspension. If it took them that long then they aren't used to doing suspension work.:)
 
They're pulling the old UCA/LCA/swaybar from the rear-end and replacing them with the HR Parts N Stuff setup; so they don't need to replace all bushings. When I pick it up today, I'll find out what the major malfunction was. I've dealt with the garage several times before and always been pleased with how I've been treated and their work. I don't know how much suspension experience the shop crew has, but I can say that the owner has numerous 1960+ vehicles, so I have to imagine they've done their fair share of them.
 
I spoke with him late today. I guess the process has been far more difficult than I thought. Having never done suspension work like that on the rear (I have done springs and shocks), I naively thought about a 5 hour job. Sounds more like it has taken them like 12 hours. This is gonna hurt. I don't have the specifics yet, but I'm wondering if my old school Bowling Green Customs catback interfered or WTH happened? He's giving me a discount and all, but it's still costing something around $700 in labor (etc.)
I sure hope this setup is worth it!
From other posts that I've read, sounds like I want to do the jounce bars next; but since I have a FMIC, I can't buy the junkyard ones.
I do appreciate all the feedback! We opened the boxes after I saw the post about not using an air ratchet. I hope there were instructions in the bag for the tool.


$700 to replace the uca and lca and hr bar and housing bushings. With all new hardware:eek: Thats highway robbery. Four hours tops to install that stuff. Your not saving any parts so cut all the old bolts off with a torch and the arms are off in ten mins. I never installed an hr bar but can bet the install should not take more than and hour and a half less with a lift. Just hate to see people get robbed.
 
They did lower it to $588 (book rate + 1 hour for drilling/setting the sway bar). They had problems removing the old bolts -- 1 broke, 2 bent. I have no idea why they didn't torch them. Anyhow, it's installed and soon needs to be re-torqued. It feels good. Burnouts no longer cause the car to sway.
 
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