Anyone do their own Valve Springs??
- Thread starter Twil
- Start date
The rope method is normally only used if you can't get ahold of an air compressor. The air method is much easier, but not perfect. If you are too quick and cocky, you can drop a valve. If you take your time and don't get frustrated, you will have no problems.
Also, make sure you have enough extra keepers for at least 3 valves (6 keepers) as you will more than likely lose a few when they decide to go mach 3 past your ear and never hit the ground and make a noise to be able to locate them (ask anyone, they are sneaky little buggers) and this is not a joke. I had a full new set, and still have 1 valve with old keepers and 2 new keepers somewhere in my garage
Also, make sure you have enough extra keepers for at least 3 valves (6 keepers) as you will more than likely lose a few when they decide to go mach 3 past your ear and never hit the ground and make a noise to be able to locate them (ask anyone, they are sneaky little buggers) and this is not a joke. I had a full new set, and still have 1 valve with old keepers and 2 new keepers somewhere in my garage
TRENT THOMPSON
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2001
the only thing that will give you a problem is the #6 cylinder it sucks. the rest is no big deal. definitely use the air method your just looking for trouble the other way
Rocker arm retainers
The job goes alot easier if you have a spare rocker arm shaft without anything on it. That way you can leave your assembly intact and just bolt up the other one to use Kirbans tool. If you don't have a spare shaft, you'll have to break off the little nylon retainers that keep the rocker arms from moving side to side on the shaft. I did a search on here before I did my valve springs and never saw anything about these retainers.
The job goes alot easier if you have a spare rocker arm shaft without anything on it. That way you can leave your assembly intact and just bolt up the other one to use Kirbans tool. If you don't have a spare shaft, you'll have to break off the little nylon retainers that keep the rocker arms from moving side to side on the shaft. I did a search on here before I did my valve springs and never saw anything about these retainers.
I use an air compressor plus I set the piston for each cylinder I'm working on at TDC...if the valve does happen to drop it will only fall about 1/4"...you just need to make sure the piston is at TDC...very top of the stroke...or the compressed air will push the piston down in the bore...
B
Buick T
Guest
I used the rope for the first time and was impressed with how easy it was. Feed it in the plug hole turn the crank till it's tight and dont worry about dropping one down. Do a search about the springs however as some of the springs in these kits are too much for a higher mileage motor. You can wipe a cam out. Most use the CC980s with damper and no cup and some like the CC979s with the cup. The Kirban tool is nice to have. Cut a piece of 1/2 conduit and drill to holes in it instead of taking off the rockers of the rails. Just my 02.
Likely this weekend.
I have an air compressor, the "tools" mentioned above including the rocker shaft, and a set of Comp 980 springs.
And best of all: The engine is outta the car!
It is also wise to change out the valve seals while in there. I am using FelPro Viton seal (the super premium kind).
HTH,
I have an air compressor, the "tools" mentioned above including the rocker shaft, and a set of Comp 980 springs.
And best of all: The engine is outta the car!
It is also wise to change out the valve seals while in there. I am using FelPro Viton seal (the super premium kind).
HTH,
B
Buick T
Guest
Yes it is and with those, I guess you know only on the intakes.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
When I did mine, I used the hose and fitting from my compression gauge. I just disconnected the gauge and used the rest to pressurize the combustion chamber. If you don't have one, this is a good excuse to buy one. They are under $30.
A
AsphaltAnihil8r
Guest
Will it hurt to do the exhaust side also??
A
AsphaltAnihil8r
Guest
While doing Valve springs,do you just pop off the rocker arm,,do they have to be set up or tourqed when reinstalling ,I think I will do mine with my neighbors tool but need to know if I have to calibrate anything??
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
They come right off and go back on the EXACT SAME WAY you took them off, just be organized with everything and have a clean table to put stuff on. They are not adjustable but must be retorqued to the proper spec.
I even cleaned the pushrods and soaked and then dried them off with compressed air and blew them out. Put them back the same orientation top and bottom and in the same hole!
Torque spec. should be on gnttype.org my book is in the garage I was looking at front end repair stuff.
I even cleaned the pushrods and soaked and then dried them off with compressed air and blew them out. Put them back the same orientation top and bottom and in the same hole!
Torque spec. should be on gnttype.org my book is in the garage I was looking at front end repair stuff.
A
AsphaltAnihil8r
Guest
Thanks alot!!Originally posted by salvageV6
They come right off and go back on the EXACT SAME WAY you took them off, just be organized with everything and have a clean table to put stuff on. They are not adjustable but must be retorqued to the proper spec.
I even cleaned the pushrods and soaked and then dried them off with compressed air and blew them out. Put them back the same orientation top and bottom and in the same hole!
Torque spec. should be on gnttype.org my book is in the garage I was looking at front end repair stuff.
I just did mine yesterday. I've never done it before but after reading all the info here I felt good about trying it. Here's my experience for the archives.
Remove the hoses for the heater core from the passenger side. It is not necessary but it's easier if you remove that whole metal tube that all the water hoses connect to. It is also easier if you remove the wireloom bracket that is screwed to the heater box. Remove the four bolts holding the valve cover on. The bolt by the firewall and heater box didn't have enough space to come out. Carefully jack the passenger side of the motor up and it will clear. I stuck the tip of needlenose pliers in the holes after removing bolts to lightly pry the cover loose. The cover doesn't want to come off unless you jack the passenger side egine up a little. All cars are different so you may be able to get the cover off without doing this.
The driver side, remove the four bolts. There is also a bracket, hoses, and connectors that need to be removed. Pull the cover off. Go ahead and remove all the spark plugs. There are three bolts on each rocker arm holding them on. Remove the three bolts from the passenger side and set the rocker arm assembly aside on a spread out towel just the way it came out. Get six tie wraps and put one on the top of each push rod. Remove the pushrods and set on the towel next to each rocker arm that they came from. The tie wrap will serve to keep track of the top of each one. At this point you will want to pressurize the cylinder. I bought an adaptor that attaches to my air compressor and screws in to where the spark plug was. I pressurized to 90 pounds. It will turn the motor a bit when you first pressurize. My Kirban tool didn't come with a blank rocker rod so I bought a piece of pipe and drilled the three holes in it the same as the rocker arm assembly. Put the Kirban rocker on the pipe directly at the valve you are wanting to do and then bolt the pipe on. Finger tight will do. You'll need to tap the retainer to break it free from the keepers. If you don't you'll push the valve down letting the pressure out. I used a hammer and the handle end of a screwdriver, they break loose easily with a few taps. Place the rocker tool over the valve, put the handle in and pull towards the passenger side. Watch the spring compress and after you go far enough the two keepers will usually fall away from the valve stem. Remove them with a magnet. I found it helpful to use a 3/8 socket extension with a socket on the end to put on the end of the rocker lever to make it longer. It makes it much easier to compress the spring. Also make real sure that you don't compress the valve spring too much or you may drop a valve. You'll here air start rushing out if you've gone too far. Once the keepers are out, move the tool aside and remove the old spring and retainer. If it is an intake valve then remove the rubber valve guide seal with pliers and put a new one on. Put a socket over it and push to make sure the seal is seated. Grab a new spring (Comp 980). One side of the spring will have the inner spring all the way to the surface. Use the other end that doesn't go all the way to the surface to put your retainer on it. Place the spring and retainer over the valve stem and position rocker arm tool over it. Have two keepers ready. Compress the new spring and retainer and place the keeper in position. You'll notice when sliding the keeper down that it will reach a point when it will drop in to the groove. I let off of the tool to make sure the first keeper was holding. Then do the same thing with the second keeper making sure the first one doesn't fall out of place. When the second keeper falls in to the groove you may remove the tool. Look at the top of the retainer and make sure it looks like all the others. Make sure the same amount of valve stem is protruding as before and make sure the keepers appear to be in place. Move on to the other spring on that same cylinder that is already compressed. Do the same thing. If it is an exhaust valve then there will be no valve guide seal. Otherwise it will be identical. After that one is done, decompress and move to another cylinder. Go at it all over again.
When all the springs and seals are done, clean all the pushrods one at a time, blow out the centers with air and place back in the proper holes making sure not to drop any in and have them positioned on the lifter(gotta do it by feel). After they are all in put the rocker assembly back on. Tighten the three bolts to 25 ft lbs. making sure that the push rods go into place. After torquing them make sure each push rod can be spun. What I found is 4 out of the six will turn and after manually turning the engine the remaining two will turn. (then two different ones wont)
I'm now at this point. I dropped my valve covers off today to get them chromed and am picking them up Friday. I'll see then what is involved in reassembly.
This is a beginners view of changing springs so you experts can get a chuckle or two I'm sure. If I did anything wrong please say so here so anybody else doing it doesn't make a mistake because of me.
Remove the hoses for the heater core from the passenger side. It is not necessary but it's easier if you remove that whole metal tube that all the water hoses connect to. It is also easier if you remove the wireloom bracket that is screwed to the heater box. Remove the four bolts holding the valve cover on. The bolt by the firewall and heater box didn't have enough space to come out. Carefully jack the passenger side of the motor up and it will clear. I stuck the tip of needlenose pliers in the holes after removing bolts to lightly pry the cover loose. The cover doesn't want to come off unless you jack the passenger side egine up a little. All cars are different so you may be able to get the cover off without doing this.
The driver side, remove the four bolts. There is also a bracket, hoses, and connectors that need to be removed. Pull the cover off. Go ahead and remove all the spark plugs. There are three bolts on each rocker arm holding them on. Remove the three bolts from the passenger side and set the rocker arm assembly aside on a spread out towel just the way it came out. Get six tie wraps and put one on the top of each push rod. Remove the pushrods and set on the towel next to each rocker arm that they came from. The tie wrap will serve to keep track of the top of each one. At this point you will want to pressurize the cylinder. I bought an adaptor that attaches to my air compressor and screws in to where the spark plug was. I pressurized to 90 pounds. It will turn the motor a bit when you first pressurize. My Kirban tool didn't come with a blank rocker rod so I bought a piece of pipe and drilled the three holes in it the same as the rocker arm assembly. Put the Kirban rocker on the pipe directly at the valve you are wanting to do and then bolt the pipe on. Finger tight will do. You'll need to tap the retainer to break it free from the keepers. If you don't you'll push the valve down letting the pressure out. I used a hammer and the handle end of a screwdriver, they break loose easily with a few taps. Place the rocker tool over the valve, put the handle in and pull towards the passenger side. Watch the spring compress and after you go far enough the two keepers will usually fall away from the valve stem. Remove them with a magnet. I found it helpful to use a 3/8 socket extension with a socket on the end to put on the end of the rocker lever to make it longer. It makes it much easier to compress the spring. Also make real sure that you don't compress the valve spring too much or you may drop a valve. You'll here air start rushing out if you've gone too far. Once the keepers are out, move the tool aside and remove the old spring and retainer. If it is an intake valve then remove the rubber valve guide seal with pliers and put a new one on. Put a socket over it and push to make sure the seal is seated. Grab a new spring (Comp 980). One side of the spring will have the inner spring all the way to the surface. Use the other end that doesn't go all the way to the surface to put your retainer on it. Place the spring and retainer over the valve stem and position rocker arm tool over it. Have two keepers ready. Compress the new spring and retainer and place the keeper in position. You'll notice when sliding the keeper down that it will reach a point when it will drop in to the groove. I let off of the tool to make sure the first keeper was holding. Then do the same thing with the second keeper making sure the first one doesn't fall out of place. When the second keeper falls in to the groove you may remove the tool. Look at the top of the retainer and make sure it looks like all the others. Make sure the same amount of valve stem is protruding as before and make sure the keepers appear to be in place. Move on to the other spring on that same cylinder that is already compressed. Do the same thing. If it is an exhaust valve then there will be no valve guide seal. Otherwise it will be identical. After that one is done, decompress and move to another cylinder. Go at it all over again.
When all the springs and seals are done, clean all the pushrods one at a time, blow out the centers with air and place back in the proper holes making sure not to drop any in and have them positioned on the lifter(gotta do it by feel). After they are all in put the rocker assembly back on. Tighten the three bolts to 25 ft lbs. making sure that the push rods go into place. After torquing them make sure each push rod can be spun. What I found is 4 out of the six will turn and after manually turning the engine the remaining two will turn. (then two different ones wont)
I'm now at this point. I dropped my valve covers off today to get them chromed and am picking them up Friday. I'll see then what is involved in reassembly.
This is a beginners view of changing springs so you experts can get a chuckle or two I'm sure. If I did anything wrong please say so here so anybody else doing it doesn't make a mistake because of me.
A
AsphaltAnihil8r
Guest
my neighbor was doing seals on his Monte and I mentioned about the magnet,,he said his keeper were Aluminum,,anyone know if /and why they used Aluminum on the montee..
Thanks
Thanks
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Rocker arm shaft to head the torque spec. is 25ft.lbs. from another thread and verified with the manual.
I use the same bolts in the same holes. Torqued them down evenly in stages just watching the threads. Make sure the push rods are all in the rockers properly and stay in the lifters!
Make sure you don't drop a pushrod into the oil pan too!
I use the same bolts in the same holes. Torqued them down evenly in stages just watching the threads. Make sure the push rods are all in the rockers properly and stay in the lifters!
Make sure you don't drop a pushrod into the oil pan too!
